water pump question

[Cleasley]

I have a 1967 18hp evinrude that i want to change the water pump. first I do not have a manual, I know I should have one, I have done this before but it has been a while. I have all the parts and I do have the exploded view of the motor. I need to know how the drive shaft disconnects to lower the lower unit. I found the shifter linkage joint ok. took out the bolts and it dropps a in. or so and stops. I suspect that it has to be at the top but I do not see anything obvious. The drawing looks like the drive shaft is splined but I do not see any kind of lock bolt or anything?
Is there anything you can help with? Short of telling me to go buy a manual?

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: water pump question

Welcome to iboats.

No magic Dis-connect the shifter linkage and if parts fall do not worry they are available when you pull the lower unit..... the bolts and brass piece will not get lost. SOme are stubborn and the bolts NEED to be removed bith top and bottom of the linkage piece since it is a pinch fit.

The drive shaft stays with the lower unit and it is just splined into the powerhead.

 

[Cleasley]

Re: water pump question

Thanks,
I will try again soon.
Are ther any tidbits you wish to share about putting the lower unit back on and getting the drive shaft and water tube and shifter all lined up and in the correct place? Looks like it will be hard to see if they line up properly.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: water pump question

Actually, lining up the linkage is not to bad if ou have a needle nose pliers.

Really not a hard job at all on the 18....... you will see

 

[bob1340]

Re: water pump question

I have a '71 model which I think is similar to yours.

Tighten the top link screw and remove the bottom altogether. She'll fiddle right in there. I suggest coating the end of the shift rod with never seize. You want never seize on the bolts as well. They tend to corrode in that area. Make sure you have a new o-ring on the end of the drive shaft and coat the splines and o-rind with a little grease, not too much, just a coating. I don't think it's needed, but I coated the water tube up inside with a light coat of silicon. When the pump bushing slides on it wipes the silicon up. You don't want any silicon in the pump so don't put it in the bushing/grommet.

 

[Cleasley]

Re: water pump question

Thanks everyone for the replies. I got it apart ok. I did not order a new pump hsg. but it is grooved pretty bad, do you think I should go ahead and change it? Probably? And can i buy it here? part no. 303070.
I ordered a new seal for just under the pump. the new one is about half as wide as the old one, which was a bronze case.I sold seals for 25years but I'm not sure if you can get a bronze case? anymore. my experience was in industrial applications not marine. C/R told us that with the modern lip designs they did not have to be as wide??? What's your opinion?
Next question : to change the prop seal do you have to split the housing to get it out?

 

[bob1340]

Re: water pump question

Next question : to change the prop seal do you have to split the housing to get it out?

If it is like mine yes. You probably have 6 screws holding it together? On mine I had a couple issues. The 2 split case is sealed with a rubber strip which I could not find anywhere so I had to re-use the old one. The prop side seal is integral with the bushing and not sold separately. The whole assembly was $140.00! My gear box had been run dry and the bronze bushing was questionable so I replaced it. And don't forget you have a seal on the shift rod as well. On my '71 18 HP they use a o-ring and gasket washer behind the bronze bushing the shift rod rides in.

This is what mine looked like.

http://www.crowleymarine.com/johnson-evinrude/parts/23312.cfm