Water Pump Woes

[KCLOST]

Re: Water Pump Woes

You're water tube up to the block isn't falling out is it? If not, probably not....<br /><br />Are you sure you have the poppet assembled properly?

 

[FranksMerc]

Re: Water Pump Woes

I didn't read all the relpies but it looks like your missing the water tube grommet.In the picture you have of the water pump installed on the lower unit, the first post, there should be a plastic piece on the open hole to mate with a tube in the exhaust housing. If someone said this already then forget it.. I didn't have time to read all the posts.

 

[Fishallot]

Re: Water Pump Woes

The water tube is seated solid up in the block,it doesn't move at all. I replaced the poppet diaphram a few months ago, it seemed pretty simple. I've run the motor plenty since then with no problems. The problem didn't start till I installed the new water pump.<br /><br />The plastic water tube seal stayed up on the water tube the first time I pulled the lower unit off. The first time I put everything back together I left it up there. I have since pulled it off and put it on the pump housing when I re-install everything.

 

[outboardguy]

Re: Water Pump Woes

Just for information.The early outboards up to the eighties had short vaned impellers which makes them High Pressure,Low Volume pumps.The later outboards use a longer vaned impeller which makes it Low pressure,High volume pump.So your low water pressure on your gauge makes sense.

 

[Josh Knapp]

Re: Water Pump Woes

dont know if you got it fixed yet, but Per Mercury you HAVE to have the seal on the drive shaft on top of the W/P housing. there is even a Certain distance that you are supposed to install it from the outside of the water pump housing. not sure of the specs at this point in time. but I can guarantee that 4 psi at wot is way too low. have you tried it with that seal on the driveshaft? cause if it aint there it wont work according to mercury.<br /><br />josh

 

[andrewkafp]

Re: Water Pump Woes

Here is a late 80's 40 which has a similar seal.<br />However , also has a plastic housing.<br />

<br /><br />Also.. Your pic seems to have what looks like a circular wear mark on the bottom of the drive shaft.<br /><br />Reckon it's p/n 43023 for the 115 4 cyl to OD228221 1993.

 

[KCLOST]

Re: Water Pump Woes

I thought about that seal, but it doesn't show it on the schematics for his motor...<br /><br />But that diffinitely could be his problem causing the leaks...

 

[quantumleap]

Re: Water Pump Woes

Fishallot: As I stated before, on my 97, the manual instructs to use sealant to connect the water tube to the pump housing. My kit came with a new water tube, actually two of them in different sizes to fit different applications. It should fit tightly on the housing with or without sealant, but I would use sealant. You problem almost has to be you tube not being seated correctly or you didn't assemble the water pump plate and gaskets in the correct orientation.

 

[Fishallot]

Re: Water Pump Woes

I'm certian there was no seal on the drive shaft when I pulled it. Also I haven't seen it listed on any schematic I've looked at for my motor. Today at lunch I stopped by my local outboard repair/parts shop and ran this by them. They looked up my motor in the mercury parts computer program and it shows no seal on my drive shaft. They seem to think that my water tube seal isn't seating right. I asked him if the water tube seal is something that normally wears out and he said the last one he sold was 4 years ago and that was for a guy that lost his, not because it was worn out. He doesn't have one in stock but said he could order it for me if I wanted a new one. When I put the water tube seal on the pump housing it moves freely around, it doesn't feel tight to me. When I put the water tube seal on the copper water tube it feels very tight, so tight that I can barely pull it off by hand.<br /><br />My plan as of now is to try to use silicone on the water tube seal where it meets the pump housing. I'll let it setup before I try to re-install the lower unit. If this doesn't work then i'll order a new water tube seal and pray.<br /><br />I have several other things that I plan on doing to this motor that I may need help on but I want to get this problem solved before moving ahead. I appreciatte all the replies and help that you guys have given me. Hopefully my next few projects won't wear you guys out like this one has.

 

[Fishallot]

Re: Water Pump Woes

Here's what I'm looking at now, just waiting for the silicone to set. I've got my fingers crossed....<br /><br />

 

[andrewkafp]

Re: Water Pump Woes

OK .. That part no 43023 is most likey the white plastic water tube seal. There seems to be no rubber seal mentioned for the D/S. If you do further work on this motor.. and present it the same way as you have in this post (Pics and all) it will be a real benefit for all. <br /><br />I reckon that silicone will do the trick.

 

[KCLOST]

Re: Water Pump Woes

Why is the bottom of that drive shaft (right above the pump housing) so shiny in relation to the rest of it?

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: Water Pump Woes

Might be missing a seal?<br />DHP

 

[andrewkafp]

Re: Water Pump Woes

There is a link called <br /> http://www.geocities.com/scubagate/impeller.html <br /><br />1993 Mariner 60hp 2-stroke Serial Numbers 09742266 & 09749885<br />Impeller Quicksilver 47-19453T<br /><br />If you look at the steel housing, it looks like yours.. with no seal... There is , however a seal for the water tube Bushing, 26-38970 (on the 6 cyl inline) but not for your 4 cyl<br /><br />

 

[KCLOST]

Re: Water Pump Woes

Unicorn, <br /><br />I checked his schematics, It just doesn't show a seal above the pump housing....????????<br />I'm all confused <br /><br />Fish, Look at the old pump housing,,,,,on the inside is there any type of seal that may fit in there that would have fitted around the drive shaft and also against the top of the housing (this would be on top of the impeller)???<br /><br />Also do all the parts from your kit match exactly what was removed? Everything?<br /><br />Did you do anything to cause that shiny area above the pump housing? In some freak possibility is the drive shaft loose, meaning can you pull it up or push it down from the lower unit gears? <br />We're still trying to help... Don't give up! Let us know what happens tomorrow after the sealant cures before you tear anything apart....<br /><br />Here are the parts you need with the kit you bought:<br /><br />817275A 2 WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY <br />817276 FACE PLATE - USE WITHOUT REF. #30 & 31 (that was included according to you) <br />10 - 40011130 SCREW - USE WITHOUT REF. #30 & 31 (you should be ok with the old ones) <br />43023 SEAL - USE WITHOUT REF. #30 & 31 (this is the seal tube on the water exit of the housing, it should match what you have/had on the old one)

 

[Fishallot]

Re: Water Pump Woes

Well.... It didn't work. Everything went back together smoothly but she's still leaking water all over the place. I'm starting to think this problem may be exhaust water related as the leaking water doesn't start for a good 20-30 seconds after I fire up the motor. Seeme to me if the leak was at the pump it would start leaking sooner, as soon as it filled up the water pump cavity. The leaking water feels somewhat warmer than the garden hose water but not quite as hot as the water exiting my prop.<br /><br />I just pulled the lower unit off again and my silicone held, the water tube seal came off still attached to the water pump housing for the first time.<br /><br />I have no idea why the drive shaft is shiny there, I know it's not from anything I did. It was like that when I first took it apart. There were no seals on the shaft at all, either inside or out of the pump housing. All the new parts in my water pump kit matched the old parts to a tee. I can move the drive shaft by lifting on it but not nearly enough to cause that shiny spot on the shaft, it moves maybe an 1/8" at the most.<br /><br />I'm going to try running a bead of silicone completly around the exhaust chamber this time and slap it back together. I sure hope I'm not damaging anything by having water going where it's not supposed to go.

 

[Fishallot]

Re: Water Pump Woes

I just put the lower unit back on with a new bead of silicone all the way around the chamber this time. Everything slid right in, I'm getting to be a pro at putting a lower unit back on. <br /><br />I want to wait until the silicone sets up before trying to fire her up again. I'm leaving to attend a sportfishing show and won't be back until late saturday night so I won't have a chance to fire her up until Sunday. In the meantime if anyone has any ideas on what may be causing this please feel free to post em. I'm almost at my wits end with this project and am starting to think it may be time to turn it over to a pro.

 

[Virago85]

Re: Water Pump Woes

seems to me if water comes out then water must go in when you sink the l/u in the water

 

[DHPMARINE]

Re: Water Pump Woes

fishallot,Lots of posts here,and I admit there are too many for me to absorb.One idea,though.The new face plate and housing that came with your new kit is intended to be used WITHOUT insulators and washers on the 4 bolts that hold the pump housing down over the WPI.<br />Good luck,<br />DHP

 

[MFG197]

Re: Water Pump Woes

I am not an expert but, when your are feeding water in from a garden hose it is at a very high pressure (like 50-80 psi static)compared to almost no pressure when the boat is in the water, the pump "sucks" You definately want to see water coming out all over the place because if you don't you aren't giving the motor enough when you have muffs on it. at the same time you don't want to over do it.<br /><br />Look the next time you submerge the lower unit in water and pull it out. water comes out of all kinds of places. Judging from what i see when i run my outboards and i/o on muffs, this seems normal What is the exact factory spec for water pressure? someone stated earlier that it was like 5psi. 5psi may not sound like a lot, but its the volume of water that does the work, not pressure. again that's if 5 is a normal spec. do you have a temp gauge? that seems like the true indictor of how the pump is working.