1NewBoatGuy
Petty Officer 3rd Class
- Joined
- May 9, 2013
- Messages
- 94
Re: Well, I know it's not the fix all, but for now, it's the fix.
OK, I found this thread while reading it on my phone. Damn, I must say this is one rediculous repair job.
I normally don't tap in on stuff like this because you should be allowed to take what ever path you choose. But just to point some things out to you, I feel it a duty to really help here.
By placing that piece of steel across the inside of the bottom mounting bolts of the transom will add no structural integrity at all. When a transom gives out, it normally happens at the bottom and pushes in, by placing that type of support on the inside indicates you think it is pulling. WRONG WRONG WRONG, OH YEAH WRONG. Supporting your motor with your ski pylon is definitely a stupid *** idea. Pardon the terminology but there is no better way to put it.
You ski pylon is meant to support a skier. Not a 400lbs motor pulling on it. The only good it will do is when your transom breaks it will keep the motor from falling to the bottom of the lake before the boat does. At best those supports will act as a buttress for the pylon, which in my opinion is the only true structural advantage to how you set them up.
I am normally one to find cheaper or unorthodox ways to make repairs but really this is a nightmare. Red Green might slap you for this one.
Motor supports should be tied to the stringers, no other way around that. If you feel a solid transom is just an accessory, you should at least build up buttresses from the motor mounts to the stringers. After all this is how mid 80's bayliners were done. Bayliners would just have two buttresses supporting a plywood transom that was only about 1.5 ft wide. But then you can look at all the bayliner threads here and that is proof enough even a boat mfg has some pretty crappy ideas on cutting corners.
If I were you and I am not I understand this. I would part your boat out. You will get your money back plus some and with your new knowledge and understanding of what you need in a boat you can then start a hunt for a structurally sound and safer boat. Been here done this, trust me for $1500 you can find a decent boat with patience and restraint.
Also consider the passengers in the back of the boat. When that motor is wide open and the transom says 'F' 'U', those rear seated passengers are going to get the raw end of the deal when the motor comes flying through the back end of the boat or the pylon rips from the floor, whips around and hits them in the face.
I am sure there are some that will read this thread that have lost friends or family to boating mishaps, this is no longer considered a mishap but pure negligence. Pre-write an obituary for the passengers of your boat so you can at least save there families that burden.
OK, I found this thread while reading it on my phone. Damn, I must say this is one rediculous repair job.
I normally don't tap in on stuff like this because you should be allowed to take what ever path you choose. But just to point some things out to you, I feel it a duty to really help here.
By placing that piece of steel across the inside of the bottom mounting bolts of the transom will add no structural integrity at all. When a transom gives out, it normally happens at the bottom and pushes in, by placing that type of support on the inside indicates you think it is pulling. WRONG WRONG WRONG, OH YEAH WRONG. Supporting your motor with your ski pylon is definitely a stupid *** idea. Pardon the terminology but there is no better way to put it.
You ski pylon is meant to support a skier. Not a 400lbs motor pulling on it. The only good it will do is when your transom breaks it will keep the motor from falling to the bottom of the lake before the boat does. At best those supports will act as a buttress for the pylon, which in my opinion is the only true structural advantage to how you set them up.
I am normally one to find cheaper or unorthodox ways to make repairs but really this is a nightmare. Red Green might slap you for this one.
Motor supports should be tied to the stringers, no other way around that. If you feel a solid transom is just an accessory, you should at least build up buttresses from the motor mounts to the stringers. After all this is how mid 80's bayliners were done. Bayliners would just have two buttresses supporting a plywood transom that was only about 1.5 ft wide. But then you can look at all the bayliner threads here and that is proof enough even a boat mfg has some pretty crappy ideas on cutting corners.
If I were you and I am not I understand this. I would part your boat out. You will get your money back plus some and with your new knowledge and understanding of what you need in a boat you can then start a hunt for a structurally sound and safer boat. Been here done this, trust me for $1500 you can find a decent boat with patience and restraint.
Also consider the passengers in the back of the boat. When that motor is wide open and the transom says 'F' 'U', those rear seated passengers are going to get the raw end of the deal when the motor comes flying through the back end of the boat or the pylon rips from the floor, whips around and hits them in the face.
I am sure there are some that will read this thread that have lost friends or family to boating mishaps, this is no longer considered a mishap but pure negligence. Pre-write an obituary for the passengers of your boat so you can at least save there families that burden.
op2: