Wellcraft 210 Elite Restoration NEED HELP!!

Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
6
Hi everyone I've owned this boat since 2020 floor was already starting to rot when I received it and I know why at one point the boat was 1/4 full of rain water because it wasnt draining..... Gonna have a good amount of time to.work on this thing this summer so i.figured he'll why not start when its.cooler outside. The boat is a 1985 Wellcraft 210 Elite with cuddy cabin. I know there is 1 other post on this forum with the same boat as me but he never finished the restoration all the way through I think life hit him hard. Anyways pulled the interior out floor out motor out outlive out and transom assembly. My issue at the current moment is deciding what to do with the transom as from what I can see the lower part is mush. Not sure if the top is section is fine to just do the lower half or do i gotta do the whole thing. I also have 0 skills with fiberglassing ive done minor work with it. Maybe someone could give me some info on where to get the fiberglass mesh rolls and epoxy?? I plan on finishing this within the next couple of months also plan on sewing my own interior recovering all the seats myself.
 

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MikeSchinlaub

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 14, 2025
Messages
838
Do the whole transom. You'll probably end up doing motor mounts and stringers too, at least a section of them.

Get the polyester resin, you'll need the chopped strand mat as well, and it doesn't work with epoxy.
 

Davetowz

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Sep 19, 2012
Messages
261
I use Epoxy for all my work. US Composites is my source. Good luck, it is usually more work than expected and will use much more materials than you expect.
 
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
6
Hey guys thanks for the Replys. Mikeschinlaub you were right motor mount structure completely rotted I cut all that out today, before i started any cutting i thoroughly measured everything, and checked how the boat stringers sat with a level on them lateraly and longitudanlly with the boats top gun whales. So whats better epoxy resin or polyester resin im getting two different opinions here? Looks like im gonna be redoing the stringers, transom, and motor mounts ive got a shopping list from fiberglass warehouse they seem to have best prices and free shipping.
 

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Last edited:

MikeSchinlaub

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 14, 2025
Messages
838
The chopped strand mat (csm) is bonded together with an adheaive that the epoxy doesn't break down. Since I've never used epixy, I don't know if this results in some chemical issues (like the resin not curing properly) or just the csm staying very stiff. So you really want the polyester, because you'll be using lots of csm. My minimum reccomendation for bonding the wood to the hull is two layers of csm and one of woven roving across the entire piece and 6-8 inches over the adjacent hull.

Looking at your shopping list, I would cut out the knit fabric cloth, that's just roving with a half thickness of csm stitched to it. It will be stiffer and take some time to soak in the resin, and you're already getting those materials separately anyway. Also the polyester putty. You make that yourself with the resin and fumed silica already in your list.

You'll also need several cheap chip brushes, a roller, lots of disposable gloves, a respirator with replaceable filters, organic vapor and P100 filters for the respirator, and acetone. A full face respirator, in addition to rather than instead of, the half face is well worth the investment once you start the grinding. Just make sure they use the same filters so you can swap.

Also, next time put @ in front of a users name. That will send us a bat signal.
 
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
6

@MikeSchinlaub thanks for the reply ill make sure to tag you in the reply what OZ weight should the woven roving be, im assuming your talking about bonding any wood to the hull including stringers. Also do you think the 3733 cloth is good? How much does each layer add to the total thickness (IE 2 layer of CSM 1 layer of Woven Roving totaling 3 layers of fabric and resin?). I took a ton of measurments so i want to be as close to the original as possible I figured the stringers are probably made from 3/4 plywood. What is your recomendation for Plywood do I have to use marine grade? marine grade AB is like 130$ a sheet nearby kinda pricey. Looks like both sides were equally rotten which i figured judging by all the engine movement. Im gonna start cutting out transom tomorrow right after i finish cutting out the stringers from the gas tank aft. Im gonna do this is sections becasue i dont want to completely tear out the inside structure with no real support other than the trailer. I will post pictures and updates each day I work on it should be able to get this done fairly quick as I have alot of time, once i get the materials ordered we should be cookin, just want to make sure i get enough on the first order​

 

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MikeSchinlaub

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 14, 2025
Messages
838
im assuming your talking about bonding any wood to the hull including stringers.
Yes. Bed them in putty and glass over.
Also do you think the 3733 cloth is good?
That's the finer cloth. This is the roving. https://www.fiberglasswarehouse.com/collections/roving/products/woven-roving-24-oz-x-50-wide
How much does each layer add to the total thickness (IE 2 layer of CSM 1 layer of Woven Roving totaling 3 layers of fabric and resin?).
I'm not sure, maybe 1/8 inch.
What is your recomendation for Plywood do I have to use marine grade?
Marine grade would be best, but you could get the construction ply as long as you don't get treated. The marine stuff uses different glue, and doesn't have air pockets like construction lumber.
Im gonna do this is sections becasue i dont want to completely tear out the inside structure with no real support other than the trailer.
You could cut out all of those stringers no problem. The trailer and cap will keep the hull in shape. Just don't pull the cap off while the structure is out.
just want to make sure i get enough on the first order
Oh, you'll definitely be ordering more. That 1lb of silica isn't nearly enough. I'd guesstimate you want 10 quarts of putty made just to bed the transom in. You want it oozing out all around when you tighten it in.
 

Drivewayboater2

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 21, 2019
Messages
391
looks like you’ve got a total restoration going. “getting it done fairly quickly“ is a stretch. We all thought that 🤣. Mikes list of needed items is spot on. Don’t skimp on the PPE.

With regard to what to use. I used epoxy. A bit more expensive but your work time is more than poly resin. If you’ve not ordered it yet do some research( vids) on the difference between the two. I researched for months before I dug into my project. Which is now in year 7 or 8. keep the pics coming. The pros on his sight have been very knowledgeable and have help me Immensely.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
52,688
Every bit of information you need is in the stickies at the top of the forum

3rd sticky down, start with links 14, 15
 
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
6
Thanks for the Replies everyone, im sorry about the stupid questions @redneck joe but theres so much information coming from so many different people and how do you know whats correct or whats not. Ive never done fiberglass before. @MikeSchinlaub thanks for the reply ive made some more progress today cut out the back section of string forward of the transom and it was mulch actually more like 1x1 cubes as i lifted the fiberglass up. Looks like ants tore up my transom which is awesome in retrospect because it made it so easy tearing it out although theres a section on the starboard side thats still pretty "fresh" ill have my work cut out there. I started to grind the wood off with 36 grit flapper got it down to fiberglass it seems like the transom thickness raw is between .30" to .43" due to uneveness or low spots. That being said regarding the stringers i guess ill just cut them all out it will probably make it easier to re assemble then i wont have to be swimming in glass shards on and off just get it all done. Thanks for the heads up on how much resin to ordered with that being said ill probably get 12gallons and mabie 10lbs of silica? I have no idea what im doing but im just going for it. Heres so more pictures. I guess its time to drain the fuel tank and pull that out so i can finish cutting out the rest of the mulch. Arms are super itchy i ordered a full face resperator i have a half face respirator right now with P100 filter
 

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MikeSchinlaub

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 14, 2025
Messages
838
There's no one correct way to do it. Some people use byply for everything, some use epoxy instead of polyester, there are different ways of thickening the resin, ply vs dimensional lumber for stuff...

I can only give advice with the materials I've used before. If you decide to go with something else, no big deal. Someone here will have done it before.

Scrub your arms and face with some gojo really well. It'll hurt, but you'll be slightly less itchy after.
 

redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
15,383
Thanks for the Replies everyone, im sorry about the stupid questions @redneck joe but theres so much information coming from so many different people and how do you know whats correct or whats not. Ive never done fiberglass before. @MikeSchinlaub thanks for the reply ive made some more progress today cut out the back section of string forward of the transom and it was mulch actually more like 1x1 cubes as i lifted the fiberglass up. Looks like ants tore up my transom which is awesome in retrospect because it made it so easy tearing it out although theres a section on the starboard side thats still pretty "fresh" ill have my work cut out there. I started to grind the wood off with 36 grit flapper got it down to fiberglass it seems like the transom thickness raw is between .30" to .43" due to uneveness or low spots. That being said regarding the stringers i guess ill just cut them all out it will probably make it easier to re assemble then i wont have to be swimming in glass shards on and off just get it all done. Thanks for the heads up on how much resin to ordered with that being said ill probably get 12gallons and mabie 10lbs of silica? I have no idea what im doing but im just going for it. Heres so more pictures. I guess its time to drain the fuel tank and pull that out so i can finish cutting out the rest of the mulch. Arms are super itchy i ordered a full face resperator i have a half face respirator right now with P100 filter
dude, i'll be the ones asking stupid questions.
 
Joined
Sep 25, 2021
Messages
6
@MikeSchinlaub went back out and got the tank out siphoned 17 gallons out, im gonna run it in my car no sense in letting it sit its already a year old. Not to bad for a 30year old tank gonna clean it up make sure theres no leaks or pin holes slight oxidation water was sitting under the tank and the foam was soaked. Should have the rest of the stringers out tomorrow. Then its time to grind
 

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redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 18, 2009
Messages
15,383
no worries, if you stick around for any length of time you will come to understand.

before i was retired early form the corporate world, i was the guy that asked the questions instead of trying not to look stupid then go off for the next week or two and talking to everyone at the same meeting about things trying not to look stupid then three to ten meetings later having it resolved(ish).

ask the damn question everyone else is thinking and just get it over with. That is my policy.
 
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