Wellcraft 210 Elite Restoration NEED HELP!!

[Elite210Captain]

@MikeSchinlaub no the first layer is 3" 1.5ozCSM inches then 5"WR then 7"CSM, then 9"WR , then 11"CSM total of 5 layers. Done with the first layer time for the next, i might have to wait until tomorrow i only have about 1/4- 1/2 gallon of resin left im not even sure if that would be enough for the woven roven.

 

[Elite210Captain]

@MikeSchinlaub finished the 2nd layer and ran out of resin that WR is thick.

 

[Elite210Captain]

Finished up layers 3, 4 and 5 this morning glad to be done with the glassing in part of the transom just some minor hole cleaning out to be done. was thinking about putting 1 layer of csm around the transom cutout as i didnt wrap the glass around that curve of the cutout but theres plenty of resin encasulating that wood, there have been a few people mentioning the smell of the resin.

 

[Drivewayboater2]

Looking good. Be mindful of the keyhole thickness if you are adding an extra layer. Check your min/max thickness specs of transom. I almost made the mistake of overdoing mine. Good luck.

 

[redneck joe]

some say not worth it but also may want to glass the edges of the keyhole.

 

[Elite210Captain]

Got the structure all cut out leveled and fit im ready to start making thickened poly resin gonna start with the stringers first and bulkhead to keep everything square

 

[bakerjw]

These deep hulls suck up the glass and resin. I see rebuilds with 10" stingers and think "Lucky So-and-so".

 

[Elite210Captain]

Structure is completely poly resin'd in time to do engine beds then tab all the structure down ended up scrapping aluminum tank got a poly tank coming thats 37gallons was only 260$ shipped with new fuel sender glad I figured that out before I installed the forward tank bulkhead ended up moving it 6 inches forward to accommodate new tank length original was 60" long new tank 65.5". So far I've used 9gallons of poly resin and almost 2 full two gallon buckets mixed with cabosil and microballoons 50/50. I'd say gonna use another 4gallons of resin before it's done idk.

 

[tpenfield]

I'm admiring your work. . . . Your woodworking and fiber-glassing skills are top-notch.

I agree with the Coosa board comments, but understand the cost trade-offs. Plywood is also a lot stronger than Coosa, so you would have been going with an extra layer of biaxial fiberglass on everything, if you did Coosa. Weight would probably be about the same.

Not having read through the thread entirely, but I assume you would be filling the hull chambers with 2-part foam? . My experienced-based recommendation is to have the liquids fairly warm (85˚F ish) and have small (1/2") vent holes at the corners of each chamber, in addition to the larger center hole used to pour the liquid in. The foam often expands up into the 'pouring hole' and traps air at the corners of the chamber, which tends to limit the amount of 'free expansion' inside the chamber. This results in a partial fill of the chamber and wasted foam. With small vent holes at the corners, the air has a place to escape.

Foam adds strength and buoyancy to the hull, but usually gets blamed for retaining water 30 years afterwards

 

[Elite210Captain]

I'm admiring your work. . . . Your woodworking and fiber-glassing skills are top-notch.

I agree with the Coosa board comments, but understand the cost trade-offs. Plywood is also a lot stronger than Coosa, so you would have been going with an extra layer of biaxial fiberglass on everything, if you did Coosa. Weight would probably be about the same.

Not having read through the thread entirely, but I assume you would be filling the hull chambers with 2-part foam? . My experienced-based recommendation is to have the liquids fairly warm (85˚F ish) and have small (1/2") vent holes at the corners of each chamber, in addition to the larger center hole used to pour the liquid in. The foam often expands up into the 'pouring hole' and traps air at the corners of the chamber, which tends to limit the amount of 'free expansion' inside the chamber. This results in a partial fill of the chamber and wasted foam. With small vent holes at the corners, the air has a place to escape.

Foam adds strength and buoyancy to the hull, but usually gets blamed for retaining water 30 years afterwards

@tpenfield im not putting any foam in the chambers I actually want to use the boat for wakeboarding so I would like to throw 5 ballast bags in it kinda running out of time, Thank you for your admiration of my work I've never done fiberglassing work outside of A&P school which was hardly any.. I do appreciate things getting done right and not just slamming this together...I've done some cad work and definitely know the importance of angles and measurements.

 

[Lou C]

Got the structure all cut out leveled and fit im ready to start making thickened poly resin gonna start with the stringers first and bulkhead to keep everything square
View attachment 420672

very nice work there, I'm sure it's going to better than when it was new.

 

[Lou C]

some say not worth it but also may want to glass the edges of the keyhole.

I would definitely glass the edges of the keyhole, because I guess the seal around the transom mount isn't totally perfect and I bet that's where transom start to rot, water seeps in, stays damp, wood not sealed, etc.

 

[bakerjw]

@tpenfield im not putting any foam in the chambers I actually want to use the boat for wakeboarding so I would like to throw 5 ballast bags in it kinda running out of time, Thank you for your admiration of my work I've never done fiberglassing work outside of A&P school which was hardly any.. I do appreciate things getting done right and not just slamming this together...I've done some cad work and definitely know the importance of angles and measurements.

The foam helps maintain the integrity of the structures . I would seriously keep as close to original as possible when it comes to using foam and weight distribution. Get it too out of balance from how it was designed and you can have a boat that acts squirrely or has planing issues.
Just my 2 cents. When I did my first Stratos rebuild, I was very cautions with moving the console too far forward or back due to potential balance issues.