Wet and Dry Joint Questions

[76SeaRay]

First, I have a set of OSCO wet joint manifolds that are in pretty good shape. So, have gaskets for these become more reliable, special gaskets perhaps, that significantly improve the reliability of the wet joint? Or, if you change gaskets every year, would these be serviceable manifolds without much worry of leaks? I will have to get new manifold to riser gaskets for the OSCO's anyway since the new ones I received came in damaged and the supplier ignored my question about free replacements.

Second, the engine is a 5.7L Vortec with an Alpha One Gen One outdrive. I might go with dry joint but the budget has gotten really tight. I have the bull horn Y pipe exhaust to the outdrive. So, I see references on the dry joint for various heights and angles of risers. What is correct height and angle if connecting to the stock Y pipe on a 5.7L with Alpha Drive?

Third, if I went with dry joint, I see a complete Barr setup for just under $1,000. Is Barr any good?

Thanks....

 

[Lou C]

Barr is good, but the paint does not hold up, I had to re-paint mine...their gaskets seal well, I used them coated with Permatex Aviation, on a Volvo style center riser conversion for my OMC, very similar to Merc's wet joint. See if you can get a set of the Barr gaskets. If not then OE merc should be fine.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Barr is the OEM casting house for VP, Mercruiser, PCM, and Edelbrock.

if you are in salt water, even the dry joint manifolds eventually fail.

 

[Lou C]

Yes they do and they can look fine from the outside, but be bad under the rubber elbow exit hoses...
These are not mine but shows you that even though the water ports etc don't leak, the elbow on the left would allow the engine to suck back water...
keep an eye on that manifold to elbow joint, as soon as you see water leaking round the outside, its time to open it up to see what's happening inside.

 

[Scott Danforth]

my bud's motor needed to be replaced due to failed dry joint manifolds

they were 6 years old when they failed

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...utdrives/10786828-2004-mercruiser-6-2-repower

 

[76SeaRay]

So, my choices are to use my existing OSCO wet joint manifolds or buy new dry joint manifolds. LouC, are you saying that high quality gaskets and permatex aviation sealer would give me a good quality seal with OSCO's and I shouldn't have to worry to much about them? I am not opposed to changing the gaskets frequently as I am restoring the boat and will be building a new engine cover and rear seats, easy to remove, so will have easy access for any engine maintenance.

So, if I go with new dry joint, what is correct height and angle if connecting to the stock Y pipe on a 5.7L with Alpha Drive?

I will rarely be in salt water, mostly fresh water lakes but once in a while in Puget Sound (live in NW Washington) and will flush after every salt use.

Thanks...

 

[Lou C]

Yep that's what I'm saying, I originally had the OMC one piece batwings on my 4.3. While some people had trouble with these, what I liked was that they were all one piece and no joint at all to leak. BUT, apparently some castings were too thin in certain places and failed putting water in a cyl, same thing with the Merc one piece design for the same engines. So since they were NLA for years anyway I had to convert over to the Barr 2 piece center riser style used on later OMCs and Volvos.
What I'd do:
with any wet exhaust design even OEM, get a straight edge and a set of feeler gauges, measure how flat the machined sealing surfaces are even on brand new parts. You are looking for low areas, see if a .002" feeler gauge fits in, if not then that's pretty good.
Then whosever gaskets you use, follow instructions, including torque specs and if the say to re-torque after it warms up on the first run. I installed the Barr system 3 years ago didn't use it in '17 or '18 but have in '19 and this year. So far so good. All salt water.
Watch the joint for water leakage as I said and I use a set of old plugs when I fog mine at winterization and I always look at the plugs I took out for any sign of water. That's when you want to find it not with a seized engine in the spring! After spring start up and burning off fogging oil I put the clean plugs from the season before back in....

 

[76SeaRay]

Thinking about reducing the risk since I will have a lot of money into this engine. Here is what I have found. Nobody shows a listing for dry joint manifolds for mid 90's 5.7L engines and they can't tell me if the dry joints ones that are all listed for 2002 and up will fit. Barr confirmed that the exhaust to head gaskets and mounting bolts in their kit are the same for both the wet and dry joint so in theory they should bolt right up to an older 5.7L. They suggested the 7 degree angle as closest to standard the wet joint riser which is 8 degrees.

I am looking at this kit:

Barr Manifold Exhaust Kit Mercruiser V-8 Dry Joint 5.0/5.7-L with 7 Riser.

Fits Mercruiser Small Block 5.0L, 5.7L, 377, 6.2L engines with new dry-joint exhaust manifolds and risers.

2 - MC-20-864309 Risers
2 - MC-1-865735 Manifolds
Manifold & Riser Gaskets plus Mounting Hardware

I am wondering if anyone has put this kit on a 350 or 5.7L prior to 2002 5.7L engines????

Thanks....

 

[Scott Danforth]

the small block chevy exhaust ports are the same across the board from 1955 to today, so that joint is the same on all 5.0/5.7/6.2 motors

the only issue you may run into is the angle and location of the end of the elbow

 

[76SeaRay]

Any thoughts on HGE brand dry joint manifolds and risers? Full HGE kit for $799 versus Barr kit at $999...

 

[76SeaRay]

Any thoughts on HGE brand dry joint manifolds and risers? Full HGE kit for $799 versus Barr kit at $999...

Bump??

 

[louc]

ping achris, I "think" he may have had some experience with HGE.

 

[76SeaRay]

Well, right, wrong or indifferent, I ordered a dry joint kit that includes HGE short 7 degree risers, OSCO manifolds, gaskets and hardware. I will be installing these instead of the wet joint OSCO risers and manifolds that I already have. The wet joint ones I have are in really good shape but I just wanted to lower the future risk since I have so much tied up in this new engine....