What type of service should you do on your trailer? Replace bearings?

[bumblebeeamigo]

I adopted a boat from my parents after they became too old to manage it. The trailer is 15 years old and has never been serviced besides air and grease. It's a single axle, surge brakes. Boat is 18', 3000 or so I/o.

Both tires blew out transporting it home... That scared me... 15 year old tires will do that. I got those replaced. I don't think the brakes work. I have a late model ford f350 so I'd barely notice anyway. I often haul 13k+ with electric brakes. 3,250 without brakes isn't much different.

I think it may just need brake fluid. Lines aren't rusted or anything. Everything looks fine... The trailer was stored indoors and only has about 100 miles on it in its life. I am figure that out but the bearings are elusive. Some guys just seen to swap them out yearly and some never do?

I greased the bearings and drove it 1200 miles. Seemed fine. Should I replace the axle? The bearings? Or just keep them greased? Replace brake fluid, or should I look at having the surge system rebuilt just on age alone? The brakes don't seem to go on in reverse even without the lockouts so out could be the actuator.

I haven't found much on actual service schedules for boat trailers, but I also don't have much experience. The bearings are my main concern.

Thanks!

 

[littlerayray]

I heard some states require brakes on trailers exceeding a certain weight but your f350 can handle the 3k no problem like you said I would take the brakes off completely if your state will allow my gmc 1500 cam handle a 3k load without feeling it I would inspect the bearings I'd their still in good shape just pack em with grease and don't forget to grease the trailer jack

 

[keith2k455]

The f350 totally over kill on this load aside,here is what I would do for the trailer:

Order a complete left side and complete right side brake kit. Get the kind where you replace everything from backing plate to drum. These cost about $50 each, well worth it considering your brake linings and wheel cylinders are suspect now.

Replace these brake assemblis and inspect/repack all wheel bearings.

Flush brake fluids in the lines until it looks new, then bleed brakes. After bleeding, adjust the pads.

I say replace the brake assemblies because brake linings alone get you close to the cost of the assembly. Throw a wheel cylinder in and your spent the same amount an had to work a lot harder. The only regret I have with doing similar service on my trailer is not converting to disc.

 

[smokeonthewater]

I replace the bearings IF they are bad... otherwise I replace them every 100 years whether they need it or not. lol

 

[gm280]

Obviously wheel bearings cleaned and repacked if they look good, and replaced if they look bad with races as well. And the usual things like that. But I would also check each and every light to verify they work without issue. Check the wires for cracked or even missing insulation and such. If any of the wires show signs of cracks or hardening, then replace the entire set with a new wiring harness. Check all the bolts and nuts to make sure they are tight. And check the trailer jack to make sure it works without problems... JMHO

 

[scamp12]

Used water proff grease from Bel Ray co
And most trailer. Have eclectic brakes . Bearing real dont pit its the races that rust or score and that kills the rollers
Make sure the bearing cap is good fit and sealed.

 

[JoshOnt]

Bearings, I would look to see if you state/province requires breaks on the trailer as most places do over 3000 lbs no matter what you are towing with. Your f350 is more than enough to stop it just better to follow the law on something like that. I also try to watch the tires and make sure they stay good and keep a spare with me at all times. I also after dealing with bearings and hub issues this year now keep a spare hub kit with me for what they are worth. I would also go over the wiring on the trailer and see if any of it needs to be replaced.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I would pull the wheels and brake drum, replace the entire backing plate/shoes/slave cylinder with new. (usually cheaper than just new shoes).

re-pack the bearings, replace the drums, bleed the brakes and go boating.

 

[thumpar]

I did the brakes on my trailer last year. I got the UFP replacements. My drums were OK but the plates where not working and old. I replaced the actuator and the main brake line also. I cost me about $250 (4 brakes) all together but I have brakes now. You probably don't need brakes but they are nice to have. I tow about 4500lbs loaded with my 1500 Yukon.

 

[bumblebeeamigo]

This helps with the bearings, thank you. I'm going to clean and repack.

I probably should have stated they are surge brakes but they are DISC and not drum. Its been so long since I owned a vehicle with drums I forgot they existed Does that change any of the recommendations about the brakes? I think Ill leave the calipers but test them to make sure there's no leaks. I'll bleed all the old fluid out. I may replace the actuator. I looked online and they seem cheap. Since the trailer never saw water, the lines look perfect so don't make sense to replace.

I anticipate traveling cross country and through US/CA. My parents live in Ontario, I live in Ohio, and there are no natural lakes in the state of Ohio forcing us into Indiana, Kentucky, Ontario, Tennessee, and New York for most of our boating excursions (although there are some reservoirs/manmade lakes close by). I think I need the brakes by law in some areas even if I don't reside there.

I'm sure a new boat will be in our future, but so far I'm 100% satisfied with this one. It does everything I could ask for. Sure I can buy bigger, faster, newer, etc. but I'd probably rebuy the same boat, so I'd rather just get all these ducks in the row and keep what I've got! Thanks again for all the great help!

 

[bruceb58]

If you replace the actuator, make sure you get one that has the master cylinder for Disc brakes.

 

[TruckDrivingFool]

My ?2 - Unless you're made of money I wouldn't start blindly throwing parts at it.

I'd start by pulling everything apart and clean and inspect to see what if anything needs replaced.

The bearings - not pitted/scored repack and reinstall. $5 for some grease vs. $50 for hubs.

The calipers, when you take them off look at the slide hardware, see if it's corroded/gunked up such that would prevent them from operating correctly. Then open the bleeders and get the pistons pushed back. They should push back fairly easily if not consider replacing the calipers.

Obviously check the pads for wear/cracks and replace as necessary.

Bleed the brakes until clear fluid comes out.

 

[smokeonthewater]

seems like there was a big lake near ohio.... seems like it was a pretty great lake.... I get an erie feeling I've been there before...... lol

 

[Scott Danforth]

I wouldnt replace the entire actuator. 9 times out of 10 all you need to replace is the master cylinder (estimated $40 vs $225)

 

[thumpar]

I wouldnt replace the entire actuator. 9 times out of 10 all you need to replace is the master cylinder (estimated $40 vs $225)

True. I only replaced mine because the whole thing was in rough shape and the parts were only about $20 less than a whole new unit. I got it on amazon as an open box so it was only $115 for the 7500lbs rated actuator (original was 5000lbs).

 

[bumblebeeamigo]

seems like there was a big lake near ohio.... seems like it was a pretty great lake.... I get an erie feeling I've been there before...... lol

haha... but its not IN Ohio...

Yes, there is a GREAT lake near Ohio. I doubt you can put a tiny little 18 footer in a lake like that though, although I'm sure someone here has... plus its a good 4 hours away from Cincinnati, but yes you are right. Don't try to take our claim for fame of being the only state without a natural lake IN it!

 

[bumblebeeamigo]

My ?2 - Unless you're made of money I wouldn't start blindly throwing parts at it.

I'd start by pulling everything apart and clean and inspect to see what if anything needs replaced.

The bearings - not pitted/scored repack and reinstall. $5 for some grease vs. $50 for hubs.

The calipers, when you take them off look at the slide hardware, see if it's corroded/gunked up such that would prevent them from operating correctly. Then open the bleeders and get the pistons pushed back. They should push back fairly easily if not consider replacing the calipers.

Obviously check the pads for wear/cracks and replace as necessary.

Bleed the brakes until clear fluid comes out.

The blindly throwing money at something is always tough... On one hand you don't want to waste money. On the other hand you don't want to fear for your life every time you want to go somewhere... you want to be able to enjoy it! Seems like $70ish for a new master, and $10 for new wheel bearings may not be "throwing money" at it if that's what it takes to be comfortable with it. Even new hubs are only $20-35. I also don't know how much brake calipers are, but they were $24 at autozone when I replaced the calipers on my 2nd gen camaro z28. Thats not to say that money doesn't matter, so in principle I agree. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!

 

[four winns 214]

......Yes, there is a GREAT lake near Ohio. I doubt you can put a tiny little 18 footer in a lake like that though, although I'm sure someone here has... plus its a good 4 hours away from Cincinnati.......

You've got great boating right in your back yard- the Ohio River. I cruised my boat there in Cincinnati Tuesday-Wednesday.

To stay on topic, you're gonna need at least a master cylinder for sure.

 

[smokeonthewater]

I boated a lot in Erie in a 12' tinny and later an 18' starcraft center console..

Sandusky and Huron rivers were great too...

I now boat on the ohio river all the time and FWIW ohio over 100 natural lakes tho most are tiny.... Also over 100 man made lakes over 100 acres.

Lake Erie IS partially inside Ohio.

 

[philipp10]

I am going to give you my 2 cents here. As you stated the trailer has about 100 miles on it and was stored inside. Don't listen to other posters here who want you to replace all these different parts. It's rediculous. Until you tear into the brakes, you don't know what needs to be fixed or replaced. The surge brakes are probably something very simple. Fix them. As far as the bearings, no, do not replace them. They are almost for sure just fine. Jack up the trailer and feel and listen. Do they seem smooth? Then grease them.