What year and model? Serial number faded

[Ozzy1911]

Hey,
I'm new here and not sure if there is a thread dedicated to this already. I attempted to search but did not come up with a result. If I should have posted this somewhere else, I'm sorry but if anyone can help me out, thanks in advance!
I have an outboard that I know nearly nothing about and I am trying to get her running right. Serial number is faded away beyond legible. Cowl says Johnson 40 vro. Only number I can really see is the one stamped on the silver disc on top of the engine near the flywheel which says: G2609437. If anyone can tell me anything like year and model number so I can try to find a manual, I'd really appreciate it!

 

[racerone]

Post picture of motor if original paint.

 

[Ozzy1911]

Had to edit my original post. Not sure why I thought the cowl said evinrude. Ran out back to take a couple of pics and saw it says Johnson. I attached some pics. I'm assuming it's original paint scheme.

 

[racerone]

The motor is NOT newer than a 1988 model year.----It is 86 / 87 or 88 model.----Basically all the same as far as parts are concerned.

 

[Ozzy1911]

Good to know, thank you. Any chance you know where I can find the carb link sync procedure?

 

[racerone]

It seems most people focus on carburetors in their first outboard fixing attempt..---What is your motor doing / not doing.?------Compression test numbers ?---Are you mixing fuel at 50:1 or relying on the automatic system.----Have you installed a new impeller ?----How did it run for you last season ?

 

[Ozzy1911]

It's not revving up like it used to. Topping out around 6 mph, used to hit 30. Fouled out the spark plugs as well. I am running 50:1 mixed. I did install a new impeller not too long ago, maybe a couple of months. It ran fine a couple of seasons ago. I did not take it out last season. Pretty sure I moved something around when I pulled the carbs for cleaning. Idle is not quite smooth and WOT the motor doesn't rev up like it used to and will only run about 6mph. I haven't done a compression test

 

[racerone]

A compression test is the #1 step to take in trouble shooting any outboard motor.----Simple to do.-----Could be a blown head gasket or worse.----Also test spark as it could be running on just 1 cylinder.

 

[OLDIRON]

Hey,
I'm new here and not sure if there is a thread dedicated to this already. I attempted to search but did not come up with a result. If I should have posted this somewhere else, I'm sorry but if anyone can help me out, thanks in advance!
I have an outboard that I know nearly nothing about and I am trying to get her running right. Serial number is faded away beyond legible. Cowl says Johnson 40 vro. Only number I can really see is the one stamped on the silver disc on top of the engine near the flywheel which says: G2609437. If anyone can tell me anything like year and model number so I can try to find a manual, I'd really appreciate it!

On the top of the motor head above the cylinders you should see what looks like a welch plug that is staked into the block. On it will be stamped the serial #.

 

[racerone]

He clearly stated that the serial # is G2609437 I think !

 

[Ozzy1911]

Yes, the number stamped into that plug is G2609437.
I haven't gotten to do a compression test yet but I did fiddle with the linkages and they seem to be pretty close, I think. I also played with the ignition timing a bit and she's running a lot better. Doesn't sound to be as off but I need to get a hold of a timing light and compression tester.

 

[OLDIRON]

Yes, the number stamped into that plug is G2609437.
I haven't gotten to do a compression test yet but I did fiddle with the linkages and they seem to be pretty close, I think. I also played with the ignition timing a bit and she's running a lot better. Doesn't sound to be as off but I need to get a hold of a timing light and compression tester.

Yes that's the serial #, but there should be a model # also like J40elssc stamped on it. Both should help you find specs and parts. It looks like one of my own motors which I believe someone else mentioned it was a 1988 VRO. You will need a timing light, but unless you have a water tank and a test prop timing won't be absolutely accurate, but it will be close. It will be more or less a static timing with the carb linkage disconnected. Too far advanced is a bad thing for your motor. It should be around 19deg. BTDC , but don't quote me on that. It's been awhile since I have done it. If that motor runs ok at WOT and doesn't get hot, if I were you, I wouldn't mess with it. Good luck.

 

[racerone]

Sorry mate ----Not all years had the model # on that disc !

 

[OLDIRON]

Sorry mate ----Not all years had the model # on that disc !

You're correct. Looks like his does not. My 88 j40 VRO does have both. Odd.

 

[Ozzy1911]

Yes that's the serial #, but there should be a model # also like J40elssc stamped on it. Both should help you find specs and parts. It looks like one of my own motors which I believe someone else mentioned it was a 1988 VRO. You will need a timing light, but unless you have a water tank and a test prop timing won't be absolutely accurate, but it will be close. It will be more or less a static timing with the carb linkage disconnected. Too far advanced is a bad thing for your motor. It should be around 19deg. BTDC , but don't quote me on that. It's been awhile since I have done it. If that motor runs ok at WOT and doesn't get hot, if I were you, I wouldn't mess with it. Good luck.

The only number I see on that plug is the G2609437. I'm going with 1988 but not sure of model number at this point. The engine was not running right after cleaning the carbs. I didn't realize that what I thought was an idle screw, adjusted idle by changing the ignition timing which I'm sure is my problem. Used to run about 30 mph at WOT. Now I get 6.5 mph at WOT. I have a tank I can sit the leg into but no test prop. I'd be happy with close enough! I've played with timing while running it on muffs and it seems to be idling alright and when I throttle up, I'm getting higher revs than I was before but I don't have a timing light yet so I can't check

 

[OLDIRON]

The only number I see on that plug is the G2609437. I'm going with 1988 but not sure of model number at this point. The engine was not running right after cleaning the carbs. I didn't realize that what I thought was an idle screw, adjusted idle by changing the ignition timing which I'm sure is my problem. Used to run about 30 mph at WOT. Now I get 6.5 mph at WOT. I have a tank I can sit the leg into but no test prop. I'd be happy with close enough! I've played with timing while running it on muffs and it seems to be idling alright and when I throttle up, I'm getting higher revs than I was before but I don't have a timing light yet so I can't check

On my 40 the very end of the rubber stopper to the end of the locknut is 17MM. I know mine is timed correctly. That measurement should get you in the ballpark. You can get away with the stopper being farther out (retarding) but absolutely no farther in (advancing). Hope this helps.

 

[Ozzy1911]

Thanks for the info. I haven't been able to tinker with the motor for a few days now, had a back issue and trying to recover from that. I did get a hold of a timing light and a compression tester but my back isn't having it right now. Rubber stop you say? My o/b doesn't have one. After cleaning the carbs I know I turned that adjustment screw up top, which at the time I thought was an idle adjuster and it turned out to be the ignition timing adjuster, out most of the way... advancing timing significantly. This is where I was having my issue of only 6mph at WOT. After realizing that I had messed with the timing, I slowly started adjusting that bolt in, retarding, until it sounded and felt about right. I'm not sure what I've left it at after the last time I messed with it but I am pretty sure I am further out than 17m. From the tip of that bolt to the lock nut. I have to do my adjustments running the motor on muffler since I don't have a tank and the boat doesn't stay in water. Not sure if not having that rubber stopper at the end of the adjustment bolt is why I appear to have more than 17mm (give or take). How long or how deep is that rubber stopper?
Again. Thanks for all the feedback and help, fellas

 

[Ozzy1911]

Well, my back is not 100% and by the numbers from my compression test, neither is my motor haha. I got 80ish on both cylinders (a hair above 80 but not much). I actually was closer than I expected on the timing. Hooked up the light and was at about 16° BTDC. Since I don't have the rubber stopper, that was about as far out as I could push that adjustment bolt without it slipping over the top edge of the little plate it kicks off of. I know it's just a rig but I found a brass locking nut that fit the bolt beautifully so I'm using that as my stopper which actually allows me to adjust a bit further than before. I have timing as dead on to 19° BTDC as I'm gonna get. I found out that I had to play with the carb linkages a bit to get her to stay idling and still have the butterflies sit completely flat inside the carbs when put at WOT. Not sure if this is as close as I can get running on muffler and I should take her out on the water to see if it's any better or worse.

 

[Ozzy1911]

I had to go back and redo things. I couldn't leave it the way it was with timing at 19° BTDC, it just didn't look right. I attached a picture of what that adjustment bolt looked like, ready to slip off the plate when adjusted at 19.
I kept digging around online and came across another forum from 2011 on marineengine.com. I believe Racerone helped out on this issue 10 years ago! I was lucky to find that thread and included a couple of snapshots of it. It seems timing should be 3°±1° BTDC. I went by racerone's advice and ran the engine until I had it right about 3° BTDC with the timing light and at first it wanted to die down but then adjust the cam plate to just barely start touching the roller for the carbs and that steadied my idle out. Seemed a tad high at first but I was running on muffs. Luckily I had a 55 gallon drum laying around, cut it in half and it made a decent tank to run the engine with some backpressue from water. Idle seems to be smooth-ish. At least as smooth as I think I can expect from a 2-stroke this old. Cut the engine off and double checked butterflies, completely flat at WOT. I feel more comfortable seeing that adjustment bolt sit in a much more natural position and backing right onto the plate instead of ready to slip off the top. My adjuster now looks a lot more like the one in the pic from that other 10 year old post and measures a lot closer to 17mm as Oldiron had mentioned... not 30ish, turned just about all the way in, like I had it last night... here's to hoping I did something right