Re: what's up with this?
Smiling big time about all the cars going down the whiz going to blow up. Good point.
Whatever your battery voltage is, be it a 3 volt, 9 volt or 12vdc marine,car,lawnmower, or motorcycle battery they all take 1.8 volts RMS over there rating to charge it.
A bridge rectifier is exactly as was stated in a previous post, four doides in a configuration to "rectify" AC voltage to a DC voltage.
If I remember my basic electricity and electronics theory,( keep in mind I was also taught tube theory when I was in school for electronics, give you an idea of how long ago that was) in a bridge rectifier what ever ac volt you put into it you will get a dc equivelant out of it. A one to one ratio. I think my manual says I should read 15 volts AC before my rectifier circuit for a test, I might be wrong as I am not a mechanic, but sure do enjoy tinkering with the old Johnsons.
The stator windings, wire gauge, and amp rating of the diodes will give you the overall amperage rating for charge. since the duty cycle of a bridge diode is at best 50% of the ac sine wave alot of manufactures skimp on good amperage diodes and do not put the full amperage required at 100% duty cycle. also consider you need to look at the PIV or peak inverse voltage rating of the diodes, sort of like a built in surge protector.
The meters in use on all the boats I have owned or been in are actually peak to peak reading meters, not true RMS meters as you will need a good vtvm to have this function, so if you are reading 16 volts on your peak to peak volt meter you are actually only seeing around 12.5 to 13 volts RMS. Enough to keep your 12 volt battery charged, but not fully. Sort of like a trickle charger.
To truly know how your charging system is working install and amp meter, then regardless of the voltage on the meter you will know if your battery is drawing any current from your charging system.
I have used old ford regulators to regulate bridge rectifiers outputs, work great and not expensive. If you decide to use the regulators buy the electronic one, as the old mechanical ones get alot of corrosion in them and fail.
Just my two cents. WAV
Smiling big time about all the cars going down the whiz going to blow up. Good point.
Whatever your battery voltage is, be it a 3 volt, 9 volt or 12vdc marine,car,lawnmower, or motorcycle battery they all take 1.8 volts RMS over there rating to charge it.
A bridge rectifier is exactly as was stated in a previous post, four doides in a configuration to "rectify" AC voltage to a DC voltage.
If I remember my basic electricity and electronics theory,( keep in mind I was also taught tube theory when I was in school for electronics, give you an idea of how long ago that was) in a bridge rectifier what ever ac volt you put into it you will get a dc equivelant out of it. A one to one ratio. I think my manual says I should read 15 volts AC before my rectifier circuit for a test, I might be wrong as I am not a mechanic, but sure do enjoy tinkering with the old Johnsons.
The stator windings, wire gauge, and amp rating of the diodes will give you the overall amperage rating for charge. since the duty cycle of a bridge diode is at best 50% of the ac sine wave alot of manufactures skimp on good amperage diodes and do not put the full amperage required at 100% duty cycle. also consider you need to look at the PIV or peak inverse voltage rating of the diodes, sort of like a built in surge protector.
The meters in use on all the boats I have owned or been in are actually peak to peak reading meters, not true RMS meters as you will need a good vtvm to have this function, so if you are reading 16 volts on your peak to peak volt meter you are actually only seeing around 12.5 to 13 volts RMS. Enough to keep your 12 volt battery charged, but not fully. Sort of like a trickle charger.
To truly know how your charging system is working install and amp meter, then regardless of the voltage on the meter you will know if your battery is drawing any current from your charging system.
I have used old ford regulators to regulate bridge rectifiers outputs, work great and not expensive. If you decide to use the regulators buy the electronic one, as the old mechanical ones get alot of corrosion in them and fail.
Just my two cents. WAV
