Where to find parts??

[hbryant123]

Im looking for a new distributor cap and rotor and i can not seem to find any sites that sell those. My 105 engine is having spark issues and the two things i havnt replaced are cap and rotor and want to be sure to have new parts because i dont know if i should trust parts that are 38 years old!

 

[Jiggz]

Re: Where to find parts??

Have you tried this guys?

http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/parts/1740_20.cfm

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Where to find parts??

Age alone does not seem to be a factor. My parts are just as old and I trust them completely. There appears to be very little wear on the rotor and cap terminals.

The rotor is very dear in price. It is an epoxied assembly with the distributor shaft and cam or shutter. You can not simply replace the rotor.

Check the plug terminations. They are regular steel spring clips and do rust and break off. disassemble the distributor cap and check that the wires and terminals are making good contact. There is no way to adequately test an electric eye module other than replacing it with a known good one. They can appear good yet break down during running conditions.

Check points if your engine has them and set to .010 open. Do not use automobile wires. Use only stranded wire core plug wires

 

[hbryant123]

Re: Where to find parts??

Age alone does not seem to be a factor. My parts are just as old and I trust them completely. There appears to be very little wear on the rotor and cap terminals.

The rotor is very dear in price. It is an epoxied assembly with the distributor shaft and cam or shutter. You can not simply replace the rotor.

Check the plug terminations. They are regular steel spring clips and do rust and break off. disassemble the distributor cap and check that the wires and terminals are making good contact. There is no way to adequately test an electric eye module other than replacing it with a known good one. They can appear good yet break down during running conditions.

Check points if your engine has them and set to .010 open. Do not use automobile wires. Use only stranded wire core plug wires

Yea i used stranded core wire. I was told by an old chrysler mechanic the epoxied rotor was important because if u broke the epoxy it broke a ground. Is there any truth to this??? I converted to car coil and points and gapped them at .010 and it wouldnt even hit so i gaped them at .019 like in a car and then the motor wouldnt hit and run in neutral warm up but later wouldnt. Im not sure what to do!

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Where to find parts??

No, no truth to that at all! The rotor has nothing to do with grounding. High voltage comes up through the center electrode and the rotor points to the correct terminal to fire that plug. In fact, the epoxy helps with insulating the rotor.

The points or electric eye however are grounded to the distributor body. If the ground wire from the distributor body to the distributor mount is missing or broken, Grounding will be either sporadic or non-existant. The grease inside the mount effectively insulates the distributor body from the block.

.019 is WAY off for any set of points. Car points will probably not work unless you get the correct set. Chrysler did use standard parts and it is likely that points were standard ones. Correct gap is .010. Condenser is critical too.

So: Your engine has battery, points and coil ignition rather than electronic. Points gap is critical as it sets the dwell to insure full saturation of the coil primary and maximum spark. The condenser absorbs current surge when the points open and prevents arcing across the points thus decreasing pitting and extending point life. However, the wrong condenser will adversly affect primary winding saturation by absorbing too much or too little current surge. When doing a conversion like this, you must be careful.

Did you reset the distributor to top dead center with the flywheel set at TDC too? Did you retime the engine to 30 degrees BTDC?

For the correct points and condenser, try Standard Magneto in Chicago or try franzmarine@aol.com. Points are not cheap but if they work, they are worth it.

 

[hbryant123]

Re: Where to find parts??

No, no truth to that at all! The rotor has nothing to do with grounding. High voltage comes up through the center electrode and the rotor points to the correct terminal to fire that plug. In fact, the epoxy helps with insulating the rotor.

The points or electric eye however are grounded to the distributor body. If the ground wire from the distributor body to the distributor mount is missing or broken, Grounding will be either sporadic or non-existant. The grease inside the mount effectively insulates the distributor body from the block.

.019 is WAY off for any set of points. Car points will probably not work unless you get the correct set. Chrysler did use standard parts and it is likely that points were standard ones. Correct gap is .010. Condenser is critical too.

So: Your engine has battery, points and coil ignition rather than electronic. Points gap is critical as it sets the dwell to insure full saturation of the coil primary and maximum spark. The condenser absorbs current surge when the points open and prevents arcing across the points thus decreasing pitting and extending point life. However, the wrong condenser will adversly affect primary winding saturation by absorbing too much or too little current surge. When doing a conversion like this, you must be careful.

Did you reset the distributor to top dead center with the flywheel set at TDC too? Did you retime the engine to 30 degrees BTDC?

For the correct points and condenser, try Standard Magneto in Chicago or try franzmarine@aol.com. Points are not cheap but if they work, they are worth it.

For the points the kind i get are identical to origonal points but the are Ford points. I did origionaly gap them at .010, but the engine did not even hit, when gapped at .019 the motor hit and ran poorly and died. For the condenser we never used one this motor and its ran great for the last 8 years but that was with the electric magnapower ignition and chrysler points. For timing yes i put the #1 piston to dead center and there is a mark on the flywheel that was put there buy my father when he used a chrysler tool to set it. So i lined the distributor up with that.