Which 1960's 40hp is better

[Birdup]

Ok here's my problem. I have two engines I'm looking at that are the same price. One is a RDS22 (1960) 40hp Johnson and the other is a RDS29 (1967) 40hp johnson. <br /><br />Both seem to be in good shape with good compression. Both are from owners who say the motor "ran fine last year". They are both electric start and non/tiller.<br /> <br />Is one a lot heavier than the other?<br />Are there any known mechanical issues with either model?<br />Which one should I get?

 

[JB]

Re: Which 1960's 40hp is better

I would get the '67. Only reason is 50:1 mix vs. 24:1 for the 1960.

 

[jimmbo]

Re: Which 1960's 40hp is better

I read somewhere that the early(pre 1962) motors seem to have a higher rate of crankshaft breakage at the flywheel.

 

[rolmops]

Re: Which 1960's 40hp is better

The pre 1962 were using the same piston rods as the earlier 35 horses and as it turned out these rods just could not deal with the torque provided by the 40 horse engines and they broke.<br />The lower units on the early sixties ones have 18 inches for short shaft and 23 for long shaft.The late 1960s ones went to a clear 15 and 20 with a very different looking lower end that just did not give the water resistance that the earlier ones did.<br />You should look at the individual engine though.It could well be that one has hidden problems like a leaking lower unit.Spare parts are available for both.Both are magneto ignition.<br />Hope this helps.

 

[Birdup]

Re: Which 1960's 40hp is better

Thanks guys,<br /><br />Does anyone know the weight of each of these motors?<br /><br />Is there any electrical problems I should look for?

 

[lark2004]

Re: Which 1960's 40hp is better

Weights depend on options fitted, between 128 and 144 lbs (generator, electric start, manual shift or electric shift)<br /><br />elecrical problems on these motors are usually around the ignition. The original coils crack and short out to ground, and the two black wires (mag wires for the kill switch) that come out from under the timing plate can sometimes wear through the insulation and short out to ground as well, stopping that ignition coil from working. Then spark wires also need attention sometimes, if the insulation is old and brittle, or if the copper core has started to corrode. ( the whole ignition system can be replaced for about $50.00 U.S. and is real simple to do) Some ignition problems can also be caused by a sheared flywheel key, not a big drama, again, very easy to fix<br /><br />Other than that they are great motors. A bit thirsty, but very strong with lots of torque.<br /><br />p.s. Rolmops, The shaft lengths you mention are interesting, My 1968 bigtwin is 18" from clamps to cavitation plate. So is the leg from a 71 model I have for spare bits.

 

[Birdup]

Re: Which 1960's 40hp is better

How can you tell if a motor has electric shift?

 

[Chinewalker]

Re: Which 1960's 40hp is better

Easiest way to tell one from the other is that there will be no shift handle on an electric shift model. The shift handle on the mechanical shift version would be on the starboard side (looking forward) right about at the split between the front and back halves of the lower cowling, within the front half. <br /><br />OR... An electrical shift unit will have a pointy tip to the gearcase bullet. The mechanical shift bullet will have a seam running horizontally down the center...<br /><br />- Scott