Why is water in lower unit oil? ['84 Seahorse 15hp]

[ezeke]

Re: Why is water in lower unit oil? ['84 Seahorse 15hp]

You will probably find LeeRoy Wisner's treatment of the subject helpful and you can just print it for backup or save it to disk: http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Lower_unit.htm

 

[kaferhaus]

Re: Why is water in lower unit oil? ['84 Seahorse 15hp]

You will probably find LeeRoy Wisner's treatment of the subject helpful and you can just print it for backup or save it to disk: http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Lower_unit.htm

Thanks ezeke...

in the time between my last post and yours I got them out. They looked like the original seals.... pulled some very old macerated fishing line out from between the two of them... the spring was gone from the outer seal....

It was actually fairly easy to get them out... drilled 4 holes, top, bottom and each side....wrapped mechanics wire around the head of the screws several times and then wrapped the tail ends of the wires around a wooden dowel. used the end of the prop shaft as a fulcrum, the dowel as a lever and worked them out by rocking the dowel side to side on the end of the prop shaft.

 

[Fisherball]

Re: Why is water in lower unit oil? ['84 Seahorse 15hp]

I have a Clymer's manual & it has always given me exact details to do everything I've needed to do to my '81 Johnson 70 hp. I resealed the bottom part of the LU including pulling the bearing carrier & replacing all seals. I also pulled the LU & replaced the water pump & all upper seals. The book told me every step I needed to do.

 

[kaferhaus]

Re: Why is water in lower unit oil? ['84 Seahorse 15hp]

I have a Clymer's manual & it has always given me exact details to do everything I've needed to do to my '81 Johnson 70 hp. I resealed the bottom part of the LU including pulling the bearing carrier & replacing all seals. I also pulled the LU & replaced the water pump & all upper seals. The book told me every step I needed to do.

The problem with the clymer and seloc manuals is they cover too many models.... the one's I've had you sometimes had to flip several pages just to get to the next step for your exact engine...

IE: do this if it's the 10HP, do this if it's the 20HP or do this if it's the 50HP and so on.

And where a factory manual will be very specific the clymer and selocs will have more general information that sometimes leave out or overlook things.

And at least the Clymer's don't cost an arm and a leg.... but the seloc's are way overpriced in my opinion.

The library stocks both on the shelf.... I use factory manuals for all my other engines and have never had any problems.