Will my boat drop in value?

frustratedboater

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I have to cut the floor on my 1994 Wahoo!! 19' with 2005 Merc. Optit (950 hours) to replace the fuel tank. I need your opinion about re-sale value with a new tank & repaired floor. The boat started weeping over the winter through the drain plug with a 1/2 full of fuel in the tank. I took all but 3 gallons of fuel out and it still had a small leak, so I'm pretty certain it is the tank, and given the year, they have this history going for them.

I'm listing it for $9,500, but no-one will bite due the the leak.. I was offered $6000 for it (as is). If it were yours, would you make the $600 investment and re-sell it for my asking price, or cut my losses.
 

racerone

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Used boats ( 26 years old ) are not going for a lot of money these days.
 

alldodge

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The tank may cost $900 but its going to cost a lot more then that to rip out and replace.

If the boat is actually worth 9500 in excellent condition, then your looking for someone which knows how to replace the tank. Those folks are few and far between, but if you find one, I would say they might offer 3500, but that's a maybe

I've replaced a fuel tank and its a job. Hard, dirty and a lot of labor. Doing it your self is about the only way to maybe get a higher dollar
 

frustratedboater

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Thank you for your replies.
I have a tank picked out for $275 (Moeller 25gal-plastic type) and all the hardware, hoses, caulk, an additional $350.. plus, $100 for resin/epoxy and those things that pop up so, you're close about the costs. I'm pretty handy and know what I'm getting into, just tossed up whether to do all the work or settle for 6K.. The boat shows well and is in tip top shape

I had 2 that were serious at $9,500, but they got quotes on the repair and that turned them off, which I understand. I know, once fixed I can get it sold and I'm definitely getting a flood of interest here in East Coast Delaware. I'm pretty handy and know what I'm getting into, just tossed up whether to do all the work or settle for 6K.. .or roll the dice and perhaps get more!?

My question really is, will this repair turn off potential buyers with the floor cut into? That's what I need to know
 
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alldodge

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My question really is, will this repair turn off potential buyers with the floor cut into?

If you do a quality job, this would enhance the price for me, not reduce it. Boat came with 25 gal tank and it gets replaced and was done right, all good. Would be worth more to me
 

Sea18Horse

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Boy, tough call! I think it all comes down to what your time is worth. Keeping in mind that it WILL cost twice as much and take three times longer than you anticipate. On the other hand if you have plenty of time on your hands and are meticulous about documenting the repairs using only top of the line or at least industry standard components in your repairs (meaning no home depot substitutions), you should come out ok. Good luck with it!
Cheers..........................Todd
 

frustratedboater

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Thank you for reassuring, with this Covid thing, I have all the time on my hands (teacher). I totally agree, I'd use all OEM, or high grade stainless stuff when it comes to repair like this. This is NOT the job to take any shortcuts on and already marked out my marine stuff.
Funny thing, when I was young I didn't understand why my dad spent such higher cost stuff from the 'marine store' than the cheaper stuff else where. He is long gone, but to your point, I still have lots of his stainless clamps, sailboat hardware and completely understand now why! Thank you, your comments were appreciated..
 

kcassells

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Just fix the boat. It has no value other than to yourself. Fix it right then you can be comfortable with it and also trying to sell it off to someone else at some point knowing it's safe.
 

frustratedboater

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You're absolutely right. I just put the electric cord in the boat, but have to finish my Master's degree stuff. It's due Sunday (..hate doing the right thing sometimes!). The repair can only help the situation..
 
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frustratedboater

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My next question is, are there any recommendations on the transition of my cut. When I put the large cut-out piece back down, I was going to build a lip screwed to the deck for it to rest on. Should I Gel coat it back in? Should I just 5200-seal it, put a transition strip in to give it that finished look.
 

kcassells

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You're absolutely right. I just put the electric cord in the boat, but have to finish my Master's degree stuff. It's due Sunday (..hate doing the right thing sometimes!). The repair can only help the situation..

That's funny and you are absolutely right!:eek:
Put a pic up.
 

GA_Boater

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You said the deck has been cut to gain access to the tank. How about a few photos so we see can where you are?

Advice will be better when we know what you know. You can seal it all as original or make a hatch for future access.
 

alldodge

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My next question is, are there any recommendations on the transition of my cut. When I put the large cut-out piece back down, I was going to build a lip screwed to the deck for it to rest on. Should I Gel coat it back in? Should I just 5200-seal it, put a transition strip in to give it that finished look.

Suggest sand it so you can use fiber glass tabbing. Use 2 or 3 layers, then when it looks good, use epoxy paint and a couple coats. Seal it in solid
 

JimS123

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I had 2 that were serious at $9,500, but they got quotes on the repair and that turned them off, which I understand. I know,

, just tossed up whether to do all the work or settle for 6K.. .or roll the dice and perhaps get more!?

My question really is, will this repair turn off potential buyers with the floor cut into? That's what I need to know

In my area good boat rebuilders are few and far between. Most are hacks that don't warranty their work beyond 30 days.

If you told me it needed the work, I could do it myself and i would offer $6K. If you told me you fixed it yourself, I would pass. I don't know if you did it right or not.

It will cost you more than you think, and then you don't know if anyone will buy it for your asking price.

Cash in hand is king. Take whatever you can get and cut your losses.
 

frustratedboater

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No, I have not touched a blade to it yet, but I will photo/video the process.
I was going to use my circular saw and hour ago, then figured I'd screw it up with chipping the gel coat and didn't want to make a mess. I just literally spent the next hour researching how to obtain a laser strait cut in my floor and didn't find exactly what I was looking for. So what better place than to ask YOU.

Q- What is the best tool I should use? I need it to be strait!! my floor thickness looks like it's just shy of 1/2". There's foam right up to the sides of the tank and I am worried about cutting stringers/supports just past it.

Pictures: (sorry about the dirty footprints) If you look closely, you'll see the pencil marks
 

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frustratedboater

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JimS123-
Thank for your advice and suggestions, I do appreciate it. I am going to plan on the repairs myself and I do consider myself to be one of those "good, very talented boat rebuilders"! Someone earlier suggested that I document each step and plan on doing just that. While I'm in there, I plan on changing everything I can get to, since its' wrapped pretty tight! Besides, I just might decide to keep it then I know that all is repaired and will feel even better.
 

alldodge

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Don't understand the perfect straight cut, with glass it can all be finished back the way it was. The square nubs on the deck can even be replaced. Use a vibrating saw, takes longer but less mess
 

frustratedboater

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Alldodge, (all)- thanks,
I guess the only uncertainty I have is cutting the floor and if I'm going to create a lip for the whole piece to come back down on, than the edge will be seen! Right? So, I guess I should be concerned about the cut being strait.. Can you provide an image of possible transitions so I know what you mean?

I will be joining a flat surface to flat surface, with a flange underneath. As far as the tool, I've seen a cutting wheel used also. In your opinion, what is better?
 
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