Winterization at Dealer Sounds Like a Scam

[WillyBWright]

Re: Winterization at Dealer Sounds Like a Scam

Water in the speedo hose isn't the problem. Water remaining in the cavity in the gearcase is (on models where the pick-up is on the leading edge of the gearcase). That can crack the gearhousing where you can't see it and water can enter by the gears. I've seen it happen, usually when the pick-up hole is clogged. If your speedometer works, it should drain out of that hole eventually. But if you drive the boat the afternoon before a hard freeze, it won't have enough time.

 

[Richard Petersen]

Re: Winterization at Dealer Sounds Like a Scam

My yard has the part timers doing gas, washing, waxing, get coffee and doughnuts. EVERYTHING else is the guys of + 20 years in the same town and only boats. Yes, I gladly pay them for what I have done in the past. They are cheap at + 20 %. Bless them all!!

 

[vipzach]

Re: Winterization at Dealer Sounds Like a Scam

Luna, I have never had to sign a contract! The guys I go to messed up once last year and had to rebuild my outdrive, do you think I payed for their mistake......hell no! I won't pay next year if my block is cracked either, it is their problem if they messed up!<br /><br />If I had to sign a contract saying they weren't responsible for damage to my boat then I would go somewhere that would take care of what they messed up. Period

 

[rwidman]

Re: Winterization at Dealer Sounds Like a Scam

If I had to sign a contract saying they weren't responsible for damage to my boat then I would go somewhere that would take care of what they messed up. Period

Last season I continued boating for a few weeks by draining the block when freezing temperatures were expected. When I had the boat winterized, the dealer wrote on the invoice something to the effect that the job was not guaranteed because their work was done after the first hard freeze. This seemed reasonable to me. They filled the cooling system with antifreeze, fogged the engine (and covered the intake with tape), changed the oils and filter, the drive oil, and serviced the drive as per the Volvo specs.<br /><br />Spring "commisioning" involved only removing the tape from the carburator and starting the engine (on muffs of course).<br /><br />They offered three different levels of winterizing at three different prices.<br /><br />You don't have to go to the boat dealer, any authorized service center for your engine/drive is fine.<br /><br />I've since moved and will either find a new service shop or do it myself. The engine is pretty easy but the outdrive takes special tools and equipment.

 

[Surffx]

Re: Winterization at Dealer Sounds Like a Scam

So Willy, <br /><br />if you were going out the afternoon before a hard freeze; what would be your suggestion for getting that water out?

 

[WillyBWright]

Re: Winterization at Dealer Sounds Like a Scam

You have to backblow the speedo hose with compressed air, or just blow into it. It's mostly a matter of where you get into it, at the speedo or back at the motor or drive. On boats that are routinely run late in the season I like to see a tee fitting in a strategic location. You just have to be careful not to blow-up the speedometer if using compressed air.

 

[Hunky Dory]

Re: Winterization at Dealer Sounds Like a Scam

You might say I once sassed a pretty good guy. Same attitude -- I know cars, what's the big deal about a boat? It was spring and he was up to his elbows in repairs from amateur winterizations. I hadn't bought a boat yet but he showed me various busted blocks, heads and outdrives plus a heaved floor with separated stringer. And he was kind (or ornery) enough to elaborate the common errors (or was it scoff the owners?).<br /><br />I remember a few good points:<br /><br />1- Read the manual -- it's not just the cooling water. For example, a bad gearcase seal can allow water intrusion and lead to a lower unit housing destroyed by freezing (outdrive or outboard).<br /><br />2- The outdrive "hub" wants lube annually and removal of the outdrive is required. Waiting too long costs MUCH more because both the engine and the outdrive must be removed just to reach the shredded $300 coupler.<br /><br />3- Rod out the lakewater passages! They are full of sand, leaves and moss which will hold water or prevent draining. Remove petcocks, they are just there to fool you (confirmed!).<br /><br />4- Get RV antifreeze into the low spots. They did NOT drain. <br /><br />5- Tip the boat, remove hull and tank plugs and decide how to keep it dry.<br /><br />6- And myriad other stuff: Water in the oil? Manifolds drained? Bellows? Hoses? What about the seawater filter and the zincs? Seafoam or Stabil -- and did you run it long enough to reach the carbs or injectors? How's the impeller and housing...<br /><br />Yeah, I do it myself (usually in the cold wind because I’ve stretched the season). In fact the last outing of my first year of boating literally ended in a snowstorm so I had no choice.<br /><br />Some of the preventative stuff got held over, but his advice surely saved many woes in the spring. It was not simple or quick; I was so paranoid that I ran antifreeze through the lakewater system, drained it as if I hadn't and then worried about it until spring. <br /><br />It's a test of will to dive into the bilge to remove that already-open petcock by flashlight while soggy in snow; but I still remember how much residual water and guck came out when I wriggled the welding rod into the oil cooler and exhaust manifold drains! Hmm, wonder how much that might have cost?