Winterization procedure for my engine?

mlumetta

Cadet
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
12
I'm trying to find the winterization procedure for my engine but am having a hard time finding the service manual online. My engine serial # is 1A058892. It is a 4.3L V6 with TKS carb and raw water cooling. Looking up the Mercury parts catalog there are several manuals, is # 8613281 the correct manual to get the winter storage procedure? Can someone send me those few pages? I have at least 4 petcocks to drain and want to make sure I don't miss a hidden one!

Also, I live in Michigan so the boat will freeze. With the petcocks confirmed drained, should I pour R-V anti-freeze in a top hose, ear muff it in, or just the engine dry?


Thank you in advanced,

Michael
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
51,478
Change oil and filter
Drain all plugs
Poke wire in plug holes to makes sure crud isnt plugging holes
Change gear lube
 

mlumetta

Cadet
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
12
Thank you AllDodge, the very bottom of what you sent is what I have but I can't find it as a Mercury procedure. In that picture there is one more petcock on the engine block itself show as a "13" but not arrowed... missing one really scares me. Is there only 4 petcocks and not 5 as I've heard mentioned from other boat owners? That's why I was really hoping someone with the manual for my engine can sent those few pages.
 

mlumetta

Cadet
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
12
I should also add that the picture at the bottom of AllDodge's post (very appreciated) is not exactly what I have as there is no hose to remove shown in the top left corner. I don't have parts "9", "11" and the unlisted thing they connect to. This is a fresh water cooled engine.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,398
Items 9 and 11 are for the Bravo drive only. There is the 2 block plugs
hose2.jpg
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,523
Oh no . . . The dreaded winterization threads are upon us :eek: . . .

Lots of folks have their own variation, but the common theme is preventing freeze damage. some folks like to use anti-freeze . . . others like to just drain things. The ones that have troubles in the Spring typically do not understand well enough how their cooling systems work and do not sufficiently purge raw water from the engine.

I do both anti-freeze and drain things.

You said 'raw water' cooling right? . . . no heat exchanger.
 

mlumetta

Cadet
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
12
Correct tpenfield it is raw water so no heat exchanger except for the power steering cooler which is just shown as tube "1" and not the cooler that really exists.

AllDodge thanks again, the unlisted block petcock you documented in red would put me to the 5 blue plugs I've been told about. When I went to the mercury parts catalog and entered my serial number it shows my engine has quantity 9 petcocks (see attached picture)!! ​The fact that the picture doesn't show one petcock I know I have but claims I should have a total of 9 still worried me.

Is there a better way to ask for someone to copy those couple pages detailing the winterization procedure for my engine out of there service manual?
 

Attachments

  • petcocks.png
    petcocks.png
    209.4 KB · Views: 0

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,398
The posting of 9 drains is IF you have all possibilities

There are 5 for the standard open cooling system
If you have cool fuel (you do not) there would be another (reason stated to remove hose)
If you have a Gen 7 pump (you should not) there would be 2 more
I you have an oil cooler (maybe not) there would 1 more

The fact that the picture doesn't show one petcock I know I have but claims I should have a total of 9 still worried me.

Which one do you have that is not listed
 

mlumetta

Cadet
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
12
I was referring to the petcock on the other side of the engine block you indicated with a red arrow yet mercury excludes completely from the parts drawing.

The raw water comes in and goes up to a power steering cooler, from the cooler, hose "4" goes down and then back up to the thermostat housing. I understand I remove that hose at the thermostat but I don't see why it wouldn't still be full of water. Is there a separate drain for the cooler? Or does it siphon out backwards through the impeller when the the drive is out of the water? That hose does not look like I can just angle it down to drain without a fight.

Thanks again AllDodge.
 

QBhoy

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Messages
8,348
Touchy subject with some, this is...

As all dodge says, the amount of drain plugs and methods of draining differ slightly across the range.
Being a fairly recent tks...you may have the single point drain system or a plug each side of the block and manifolds (4 in total), or a plug each side of the block and manifolds and one on the thermo stat (5 in total)....some have one on the power steering cooler too, I believe.
Personally, I like to drain the water then put plugs back in, take Main hose off the thermostat and fill with antifreeze...then the fill the exhaust manifolds until antifreeze comes out the drive. Then leave it filled up this way to stop cold corrosion whilst in storage.
Some will say to leave it empty and "air don't freeze" and just make sure you poke the drain holes to see if any crud is blocking the holes....in my opinion, the crud that blocks the holes is partly made up of corroded engine internals from leaving empty and damp over winter. This very issue can be avoided if left filled with antifreeze each winter from new.
 

QBhoy

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Messages
8,348
Ps....what a depressing thought...is winter really that near ?
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,398
You don't need to drain the PS cooler since its on the rear top of the motor. Gravity takes all the water out. My older motor had a drain on the PS cooler but it was in the bottom of the hose I indicated to remove. My newer motor has a cool fuel in that location.
 

mlumetta

Cadet
Joined
Jun 14, 2014
Messages
12
I'm going to add stabilizer and run boat one last time, change filters and lubes, fog, and then disconnect battery for the season.

AllDodge, I read "remove hose" as remove from the thermostat housing, not physically remove the hose to drain upside down. The raw water inlet hose is not coming out without a fight (doing more harm than good to other wires and tubes wrapped around it). So instead I will disconnect at the thermostat housing and fish in a small hose and MightyVac out any water in that tube.

QBhoy, I have two drains for the manifolds, two on the block, and one on the circulating pump outlet hose for 5 total. There is no thermostat petcock to let air in so I will remove the raw water inlet and the circulation pump tube at the thermostat housing. After I diligently drain all 5 petcocks and close them, I will fill the raw water tube with RV antifreeze and reinstall to thermostat housing (don't know if it will fill or pour all the way out through the drive impeller). Next I will pour in RV antifreeze in the circulation pump outlet tube until I see the antifreeze coming out the thermostat housing nipple for that hose. Finally reinstall circulation pump hose at thermostat so it is ready for next year.

Does that sound reasonable? The drive / impeller will drain when out of water so no running with antifreeze muffs required, right?


Thank you both for your help!
 

wahlejim

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Messages
884
I would just add to put your battery on a float charger. You can get them for 10 bucks online and it is much better for your battery than letting it sit for 7 months untouched.
 

QBhoy

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Messages
8,348
Hi
Yeah...when you fill the main hose other side from the inlet of the t stat...it will eventually overflow out the thermostat again. Big hose on the left looking aft is the one.
Then the two smaller bore pipes to fill the manifolds and then the anti freeze will run out the drive, taking care of any water trapped in there.
Make sure you get a strong concentration antifreeze. I prefer a 50/50 mix to be safe. Use a tester.
Also leave the drive tilted down as far as possible to make sure water is drained and this saves strain on the bellows too.
I don't fog the engine because I have an mpi and it's known to cause more problems. I never did with the carbs engines either. If you are fussy. Run a 2 stroke mix in the tank when level is low before wintering.
Not sure if you do, but if your engine provides heating to a hot water system colorifier, make sure you drain these hoses too.
 

QBhoy

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Messages
8,348
As for changing the oil and drive oil....I don't do this before winter, but I can understand why folk do.
I just crack open the drain screw and have a quick check for water. That's where it would be after given time to settle.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
43,398
If you get all the water out your good, as Bondo says "air don't freeze"
 

QBhoy

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 10, 2016
Messages
8,348
If you get all the water out your good, as Bondo says "air don't freeze"

AD....with regards to the famous "air don't freeze" theory. Of course it's correct and I'd never be so brave as to argue with either one of you (Bondo included), but can you see my point about leaving the engine empty and it possibly being the very cause and reason that folk advise to poke the drain points to make sure they are clear ? I'm am a firm believer that leaving an engine empty year after year will contribute to the very crud that people of this chain of thought insist in including in their winterising advice list ! It's mainly made up of corroded metal, which can be avoided if there is less oxygen levels in there in the first place....by leaving the block full. 20+years of engineering principles insists I avoid this as much as possible.
 
Top