Winterize question

Don S

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Re: Winterize question

This item is for sale on iboats. Does that make it a good product?


That system works great for a close cooled system, or if you drain the block first and then run it.
Just because someone sells something doesn't make the product good or bad.

iboats sells parts other manufactures make, and they don't test each and every one in every possible way a buyer can misuse it.
 

tpenfield

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Re: Winterize question

Since the anti-freeze versus drain debate could go on for a while, I thought that I would comment about the sea water pump, given that it is a Bravo 3

the sea water pump tends to be fairly water tight and will keep raw water in the supply line leading up to the engine for quite some time. This could impact the sea water pump itself and the oil cooler, even though the engine and manifolds had been drained.

the best bet and something that should make everyone happy, is to run the anti-freeze through the muffs and then drain the block and manifolds. The areas that are at risk from having diluted antifreeze (block and manifolds) would be empty, and the areas that are not easily drained (sea water pump, supply line, coolers, etc) would have pure antifreeze in them.

so, to the OP, my comment would be that you danger may be the supply line and everything in its path from the sea water pump to the engine. . . . Unless you have one of those easy drain setups that Don talked about.
 

thumpar

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Re: Winterize question

Yes but isn't that why you put 4-5 gallons into the system. If the temp doesn't jump then you know its going through the block. If it wasn't what would keep cooling the motor? Curious, when you winterize a sterndrive how do you do it to protect from freeze damage? I'm not asking to be argumentative I'm asking because I want to learn. I understand that draining the block of all fluid would be the best way as there wouldn't be anything left to freeze, but numerous mechanics who all go to Mercury school every year for their "in service training and certification" winterize the way I described and have told me you don't need to drain if you run enough antifreeze through at temp. They were the ones who taught me the procedure.

Mechanics would have a hard time selling air in the blocks. I have been draining my engine every year so far. The pink stuff is good down to -50 at full strength, air is good to any temp on this planet.
 

tazrig

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Re: Winterize question

When just on muffs it may never open fully, just enough to keep the engine cool, and that may run all the antifreeze out of your container before it gets the engine complete antifreezed.
Like I said, if you can do it, it's up to you. But there have been a lot every year, that post here about broken blocks that have used the same method.

So for someone with a brand new engine like the OP, I sure wouldn't suggest him to try that to find out if it works on his engine or not. Also not too sure how it would work with the catalitic converters he has on his engine.

O.K., I see what your talking about. With the new engines and the new easy drains systems it just makes sense to drain and not take the chance. I re-powered with a couple of 350 MPI Plus-Series this year just to avoid being forced into taking the new Catalytic Converters. I just can't see how putting Catalytic Converters anywhere near salt water was anyone's idea of a smart thing (or necessary thing) to do.

P.S. Sorry, I didn't mean to start an avalanche of "what type of oil should I use?" type questions.:facepalm:
 

Don S

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Re: Winterize question

Along the same lines, I don't see why anyone would trust those drain systems. How would you know if one side of the block didn't drain because of some dirt in the block. That's also why we say pull the plug and use a screw or nail and make sure the hole stays open till things are drained. Not everything on boats has an EZ button.
 

tazrig

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Re: Winterize question

Mechanics would have a hard time selling air in the blocks. I have been draining my engine every year so far. The pink stuff is good down to -50 at full strength, air is good to any temp on this planet.

Agreed. I always used the -100 to be extra safe but no fluid to freeze is ALWAYS better than some fluid to freeze regardless of how well anti-freezed it may be. For what it's worth on my new motors I plan to drain, flush with anti-freeze (just to be extra safe) and then drain again.
 

thumpar

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Re: Winterize question

Agreed. I always used the -100 to be extra safe but no fluid to freeze is ALWAYS better than some fluid to freeze regardless of how well anti-freezed it may be. For what it's worth on my new motors I plan to drain, flush with anti-freeze (just to be extra safe) and then drain again.
As long as you drain according to the manufacturer there is not enough water to expand and put pressure on anything. I would bet that more engines are ruined by antifreeze because not enough gets in than those that are just drained.
 

tazrig

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Re: Winterize question

As long as you drain according to the manufacturer there is not enough water to expand and put pressure on anything. I would bet that more engines are ruined by antifreeze because not enough gets in than those that are just drained.

Quite possible, especially if it isn't done right, or the thermostats aren't changed on a regular basis. Thats why with my new motors I plan to drain then flush with antifreze. I just wouldn't want to take the chance that somehow, someway just enough water got stuck in there to cause a problem.
 

fossill

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Re: Winterize question

Why not just do it like it says in the Mercruiser service manual? In a nutshell, drain block and remove thermostat and pour antifreeze down the housing till engine is full and put back together???
 

tazrig

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Re: Winterize question

Why not just do it like it says in the Mercruiser service manual? In a nutshell, drain block and remove thermostat and pour antifreeze down the housing till engine is full and put back together???

I think after much discussion, research, etc. that seems to be the general consensus we have all come to.
 
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