Winterizing 1988 5.0L -- Draining manifolds, etc - is that acceptable?

[jbutler67]

Today, I winterized my 1988 Four Winns with OMC v8 5.0L inboard and outdrive. 502APRGDP

Sorry for the lengthy post. I have 2 questions.

I connected fresh water hose and muffs then ran the engine to normal operating temp.

I turned off the engine and hooked up a winterizing kit jug to the muffs. Jug was filled with 4 gallons of anti-freeze, sitting on the swim platform above the lower unit/muffs.

I started the engine again.

I was surprised how little fluid came out the exhaust while running engine hooked up to the jug. The jug was draining. No fluid was leaking into the bilge. But, very little fluid came out the exhaust.

***Q1: Is that normal to see so little fluid coming out the exhaust while running hooked up to the jug?

After I squeezed the muffs tight against the lower unit, some water finally started coming out the exhaust. Eventually the water had a very slight pink tint.

Not feeling comfortable that enough antifreeze circulated through the engine, I drained the manifolds and opened the engine block drains until all drained completely. I also disconnected the large hose between the thermostat housing and engine block water pump and lowered hose to let it drain. I also disconnected the hose between the thermostat housing and oil cooler. I put the hose lower than oil cooler to let the fluid drain from the oil cooler. Lastly, I poured straight antifreeze down the large hose disconnected from the thermostat housing, letting it run through engine block water pump. It eventually drained out the engine block drains.

Fluid that drained from manifolds was not very pink. Fluid that drained from the engine block was pink.

I plan to leave the manifolds and engine block drain plugs out.

*** Q2: Draining manifolds, block, hoses and oil cooler after running some antifreeze through - is that acceptable? Might I have missed something and at risk of cracking block or a line?

As part of the winterization, I also completed these steps. I feel comfortable with these steps though:
1) sprayed fogging oil into the carb while engine was running
2) pulled the spark plugs and sprayed fogging oil into each cyliner then replaced plugs and turned over engine on starter a few times
3) changed engine oil and filter
4) changed outdrive gear oil
5) topped off fuel and added stabilizer

 

[jerryjerry05]

You should have drained the block, the manifolds, the pump hose, FIRST!!
Then drain the drive.There is a small screw on the L side of the pivot housing.
​This drains the hose from the drive to the motor.
Then do the bucket trick.
I never liked the bucket and always put AF in the hoses and manifolds.

​Never leave the screws out over the winter.
​The threads can corrode and the plugs might not go back in easily.

You fill the drive the right way?(sorry had to ask)

 

[Scott Danforth]

you need to drain the block and manifolds first. the method you described with swiching over pushes all the antifreeze right out the exhaust because the thermostat slammed shut as soon as the incoming antifreeze hit it and it all went out the exhaust. that is how a thermostat works.

those kits should be banned as way too many people end up with broken blocks.

the manual even states drain = winterized. and as an option for long-term storage if desired, add antifreeze with a funnel thru the thermostat housing.

 

[Lou C]

As long as you poked the holes in the block and manifolds and are satisfied that you got all the water & water mixed with AF you should be fine there. You might want to replace the impeller in the spring though. The fact that very little AF came out till you squeezed the muffs tight would make me concerned about. Very easy job on the Cobra though just make sure to also replace the wear plate and o ring gasket on the housing. Make sure the metal cage for the impeller did not shift in the plastic housing. Use an OE impeller repair kit you can get it from any Evinrude dealer .

OK one more thing the pivot housing (the part of the transom mount that the drive bolts onto) has 3 drains, 2 on the starboard side one on the port. Tilt the drive up to see all 3. Remove plugs rod out holes. Put drive down to make sure they drain. Put drive up again replace plugs with OMC gasket sealer on the threads. While drive is up check drive shaft bellows for cracks. If you see any get it replaced over the winter and also check the gimble bearing & ujoints.
Then put drive down.

Next time if you want to use AF do it the easy way...
Run engine after changing motor oil check for leaks at the filter then fog it. Let it cool off before draining becsuse that water will be HOT!
Then replace metal drain plugs in the block with some gasket sealer on the threads. The manifilds use rubber caps. Now use -100 marine AF and back fill the engines, msnifolds and raw water intake hose (this you did right?)....
This is how both Merc and OMC tell you to use AF for corrosion protection in their manuals. Those winterizing kits are only good for engines with closed cooling.

 

[jbutler67]

I have some more winterizing work to do:
1. replace metal drain plugs in the block with some gasket sealer on the threads
2. replace rubber caps on manifolds
3. -100 marine AF to back fill the engine block, manifolds and raw water intake hose

(although i'm not sure yet how to back fill the raw water intake hose)

4. the 3 drains on the pivot housing as noted above.

i just replaced the impeller in June. I will check it again in the Spring.

jerryjerry - i just had the prop shaft in the lower unit replaced in September so the mechanic just replaced the outdrive gear oil 3 weeks ago. I did not do it this time.
Last time I did it, I filled the outdrive gear oil from the bottom using a lower unit oil pump. Added oil at lower drain screw on starboard side until oil reached the upper drain hole. thanks for checking. i assume that is correct.

louc - i had them replace the drive shaft bellows and exhaust bellows when they had the outdrive off for the prop shaft repair. I asked them to also check and grease the gimble bearing & ujoints.

thanks again for all the advice and guidance.

 

[jbutler67]

I found this in an older post by Lou C. Great info!


"You have the 2 drains on the engine block (probe the hole with a thin screwdriver, because they get clogged, water must come out), the big hose on the bottom of the front water pump (pull off the bottom end, a lot of water drains) and the raw water intake hose from the transom to the thermostat housing (I disconnect that at the 'stat housing and point it down in the bilge to drain). There is a a drain plug on the P/S cooler but its on the back of the engine, you can hardly reach it. I take some -100 marine antifreeze and pour it in the hose till it comes out the drive water intakes, that flushes out the cooler and gets some AF in the impeller housing in the drive. On your exhaust manifolds there are either rubber caps you remove or the plugs like on the engine. Drain them too. I fill the engine and manifolds with the same -100 but like I said proper draining is adequate. I do this because Im in salt water.
Don't forget the Cobra has 3 plugs in the pivot housing, 2 on the driver's side and one on the other side. I tilt the drive up a bit and remove all 3, some years water comes out some years it does not. I put OMC gasket sealer (Permatex Aviation Sealer) on the threads of all the metal plugs to make them easy to take out next year. "