Winterizing before the freeze

[malfar]

New to I/O but have a newer Merc 3.0 with the two drain hoses. Understand I still need to add antifreeze - it goes to -40 here in winter. Wondering why i just can't use the air compressor on these hoses and blow any water back out the drive. Also what is the best way to put the antifreeze in - pull the hoses off the front of engine or use a reservoir and feed it through the muffs with engine running

Thanks

 

[Bondo]

Re: Winterizing before the freeze

Ayuh,...........

There's No Reason to use Antifreeze,........ Air Doesn't Freeze.........

All you have to do is Remove ALL the Water.......

And,....
There's No Reason to use Compressed Air,....... Gravity will do All the Work for you.......

Pull the Block Drain, you have 1, and stick a Nail or Screw into the Hole,+ make Sure it's not clogged with silt.......
Then Remove the Exhaust Manifold Drain,+ do the same.......

 

[getinmerry]

Re: Winterizing before the freeze

I have always used Low-Tox green antifreeze after draining all the water. I put it in through the muffs. For me, it's not about freeze protection (although it's good insurance), it about corrosion protection. I have been doing this for 15 years and have never had a winterization-related problem or an internal corrosion related problem. Just my 2 cents worth.

Chuck

 

[ziggy]

Re: Winterizing before the freeze

i'm with bondo. air don't freeze. i've winterized many years that way and it's never let me down. got me a new to me boat last fall. i winterized with pink anti freeze for the first time. took the tstat out and put it in that way. i'm leary of doin it off the muffs. i've read horror storys about doing it that way. i'm with getinmerry on the corrosion protection. that's my main goal too, corrosion protection.

i've no idea where it is. but there was a mercruiser service bullitin posted up a year or so ago. what it basicly came down to for me was (i read it over sevearl times). drainin the cooling system of water is good for extending the season and is a satisfactory way to winterize. but anti freeze is better for the long term layup.......

 

[KaGee]

Re: Winterizing before the freeze

MALFAR should read the sticky at the top of the forum!

For the record, I dry store as well.

 

[happycamper]

Re: Winterizing before the freeze

malfar,
I have always dry stored in the past and used compressed air to get everything dry.

This year I'm switching to antifreeze because I'm on my 3rd manifold. The first manifold was $375, the last one was $450.

My 3.0L is 11 years old and still in mint condition internally, but corrosion is winning over the block & head cooling passages.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Re: Winterizing before the freeze

I think "winterizing" is the incorrect word. Removing all the water will work but will allow the cast iron parts to dry and start scaling.The task is to prevent it from freezing and cracking something important, without creating a scale buildup inside the cast iron components.
As far as the muff system ,if you didn`t drain the block and manifold first, how do you know the thermostat was open fully to have the A/F get inside the block??????
drain first, fill from the hoses.can never go wrong that way.

 

[njlarry]

Re: Winterizing before the freeze

Amen to that. My temp gage said the thermostat was open and I pumped five gallons of antifeeze though, but I latter found cystal clear water in both the manifold and block after reading Don's post about draining both. I'll never trust muffs to flush out water.

 

[wallydc2]

Re: Winterizing before the freeze

Happy camper,

USE anti corrosive anti freeze, my 3.0 mercruiser is 16 years old and the manifold has never been changed out. I'm sure using the non corrosive stuff has a lot to do with it.

 

[Don S]

Re: Winterizing before the freeze

Happy camper,

USE anti corrosive anti freeze, my 3.0 mercruiser is 16 years old and the manifold has never been changed out. I'm sure using the non corrosive stuff has a lot to do with it.

The fact that you are boating in fresh water probably helps more.
Salt water is what kills manifolds and risers so fast. Fresh water ones seem to last forever............. Well at least a heck of a lot longer.