Winterizing

bassindude87

Recruit
Joined
Nov 15, 2002
Messages
2
I have a 1969 Johnson 25 Outboard, its going to be stored in a warm place over the winter but i heard its still a good idea to winterize it. My question is what do i do to winterize it (lower unit oil ect..) and how it is to be done. Thank you.
 

miloman

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Nov 3, 2002
Messages
1,181
Re: Winterizing

I just thought that for the benefit of those who would like to do the basic winterizing routine to ther boat when the time comes[late december??], we should share what we all do to our rigs for the winter lay-up. <br />I'll start things off. <br />First a thorough cleaning of the boat, motor, trailer. Add fuel stabilizer to a full gas tank[prevents condensation forming in fuel tank]. Run engine in lake/river or with hose attached to ear muffs on lower unit to draw fuel mixture into engine. Run for about 5 minutes, then disconnect fuel line and begin to spray fogging oil slowly[don't kill engine]. When it has run out of fuel pull the fuel line and sparkplugs.Thoroughly spray fogging oil in each cylinder. replace plugs but NOT the wires. Crank the engine a few turns to distribute the oil on the cylinder walls. Reconnect plug wires and fuel line. This is the time to pull the propeller and lube it checking for fishing line. Now you can drain the lower unit, make sure the motor is as close to vertical as possible. There are usually three screws to remove. There may be a few filings attached to the bottom screw, this is okay it may be magnetic. If you have not allredy purchased a small pump with a hose and threaded connection this will make the job easy[about $15any marine store]. Check the colour of the fluid. It should be nearly clear, NOT milky -this indicates moisture in the lower unit. The rubber seals on the drain srews could be failing or a propeller shaft seal[see mechanic]. If all is well Use the finger pump I mentioned filled with the appropriate type of lower unit lube. Fill ONLY from the bottom screw this will expell any air trapped in the lower unit. When the lube spills out of one of the upper vent holes replace one screw. Keep pumping till it flows from the other and replace that screw. The last screw will be a little messy, but not too much as the lube is thick and does not flow fast. Remove the pump hose from the lower screw hole and be ready to replace the last screw. All that is left is to grease all fittings and the lube the linkages in the motor head. One over looked part is the starter pinion gear. It is energized when you crank the engine to turn over the motor. Grease this part or the shaft it rides on so it will not stick. I had this happen[it would actually stay partly engaged to the flywheel and made the most terrible noise. I only use white lithium grease-water won't effect it. <br />Vacuum out the boat check screws and fittings. Remove batteries and charge. Store in the coolest part of your basement. Ckeck each month charge if necessary during the winter. <br />The last part is the trailer. Place it on stands So the wheels are off the ground. If you have a galvanized trailer [no paint] you are done. If it is painted spray it with wd40. This will prevent any rusting during the winter from the stone chips etc. I was amazed what a difference this made from one winter to the next. <br />This whole process shouldn't take more than 90 minutes if you have done it before. This will also save you a lot of money and give you the satisfaction of a job well done<br />Also When i put my trailer on jacks ($25 each canadian tire) make sure that they are under the leaf or behind the rear wheels I add a 2x4x4 just for that added stability. If you have a compressor a real good idea is to blow out your bilge pump and live well lines ( I have 2 wells) so it takes some time if you don't have a compressor rv stores have fittings for this and all you do is screw the fitting in and take it to any gas station with an air pump I usually get 1/2 gallon out of my lines. wipe the interior of your live well check all the pumps tighten any fittings around these pumps. I also disconect my electronics I have a gps 2 fish finders I spray a qtip with wd40 and wipe the connections> I also remove my prop to my trolling motor check it for line etc. The only other thing and I think that this is the most important thing to do I can't stress it enough once your done this get yourself a beer brave the cold and sit there thinking about the big one that got a way smile and go face the wife and kids for the winter
 

Forktail

Ensign
Joined
Feb 11, 2002
Messages
977
Re: Winterizing

Good job miloman.<br /><br />I also like to spray the entire engine down with a silicone spray to prevent oxidation/corrosion. Wax the outside paint to prevent fading, etc.<br /><br />If you have fuel injection you may need to drain the vapor separator. I like to drain my carbs even after the fuel stable and fogging (some people don't). I always change or clean the fuel filter. Any water in it will freeze or cause rust in the filter system.<br /><br />Blowing the water out of the speedo tube is a good idea too. Don't forget to lubricate the hood latches/hinges and put a little silglide on the hood seal.<br /><br />Store vertical with trim/tilt rods all the way in (non-exposed). <br /><br /> :D
 

radsrh

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
250
Re: Winterizing

Late december last night it was 8deg out, the only fishing left here is through the ice.
 

skier

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 31, 2002
Messages
336
Re: Winterizing

Forktail:<br /><br />I have a problem, I have the first style trim/tilt that Mercury used. If the outboard is all the way down the rams are fully extended, Full tilt on my motor has the rams un-exposed. What should I cover the rams with???<br /><br />Thanks. Craig
 

Forktail

Ensign
Joined
Feb 11, 2002
Messages
977
Re: Winterizing

Merc140, IMO it would be better to store the motor in the vertical position with the rams extended. You could spray the ram rod(s) with a silicone spray to protect them and wipe the rams clean in the spring, before you run them down. It's basically a matter of protecting the seals, keeping the rod from rusting, and keeping the crud out of the ram cylinder. :)
 

wilde1j

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 15, 2002
Messages
5,964
Re: Winterizing

bassindude87, almost all LU's have TWO screws (fill and vent), a very few very small motors only one screw and NONE have three. The vent/fill screws are almost always slotted.<br /><br />Any LU with a third screw (shift clevis pivot) which is usually a philips, should NEVER be removed unless you want to take the LU apart to reinstall it.
 

Forktail

Ensign
Joined
Feb 11, 2002
Messages
977
Re: Winterizing

The 3rd screw he's talking about is probably the "water drain". It usually sits just above the gearcase vent/check screw (the upper one). The gearcase itself should just have two. <br /><br />If you put oil in the 3rd screw you would probably end up flushing your cooling system with gear lube :eek:
 

pmueller

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jul 1, 2002
Messages
76
Re: Winterizing

My 2002 Merc LU has three slotted screws. The manual says to remove all three to drain, then fill from the lower screw until lube appears at the left upper screw, put that screw in, keep pumping lube until it shows at the upper right screw, put that screw in, then put in the lower screw.
 
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