Wire broke loose from Trim Sender Switch

Johnny Be Cool

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 22, 2010
Messages
126
How do I fix the wire that disconnected from the Trim Switch on the Starboard side. I see 4 little screws, do I take that cover off? Any thoughts. Thanks!
 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
62,321
Re: Wire broke loose from Trim Sender Switch

New switch kit, there is no repair for broken wires.
 

stonyloam

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 13, 2009
Messages
5,827
Re: Wire broke loose from Trim Sender Switch

How do I fix the wire that disconnected from the Trim Switch on the Starboard side. I see 4 little screws, do I take that cover off? Any thoughts. Thanks!

1990 Merc. right? if you have the original trim sender you might have the old style wire wound one. you should be able to take it off and take it apart and see what is wrong (I did with mine, but it was shot). You might be able to get it working, anyway can't hurt. Replacing the switches (correctly) is a HUGE PITA.:( Let us know how you make out. Good luck
 

Johnny Be Cool

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 22, 2010
Messages
126
Re: Wire broke loose from Trim Sender Switch

Thank you for the answers, I'll give it a try,
 

Docb225

Recruit
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Jul 11, 2010
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5
Re: Wire broke loose from Trim Sender Switch

Johnny Be Cool, any luck? I have the same issue wire broken at the sender.
 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,426
Re: Wire broke loose from Trim Sender Switch

i just used a crimp butt connector and liberal liquid tape. it has (unexpectedly) lasted all season.
 

Johnny Be Cool

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 22, 2010
Messages
126
Re: Wire broke loose from Trim Sender Switch

No I haven't tried it yet. Just had some major work done to the engine and wanted to get the boat in the water asap.
 

ChrisCraftJohnny

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Oct 7, 2009
Messages
187
Re: Wire broke loose from Trim Sender Switch

I just replaced both the Trim Sender and the Trim Limit switch.

Once you get the drive off, the bellhousing and all it's bellows off you can access the retaining plate and two bolts that secure the wires into the transom plate.

Bolt #1 is easy to remove. Use a 7/16" socket with extension. Comes right out.

Bolt #2 is a different story. I was able to remove it only one way. Let me tell you my trials:

1. I thought for sure that a 7/16" GearWrench with a pivoting head would be the ticket. In my automotive experience, these tools can help you in tough, small clearance jobs. I have used them many times with much success.
HOWEVER, there is not enough clearance due to the transom bolt boss that sticks out right next to the 7/16" hex head (naturally). I really think Merc engineers are the botom of their class.

2. The only way that I have read that "Merc Mechanics" get these out is by bending a 7/16" combination wrench. So what I did was to take an old MADE IN USA combination wrench, and when I say MADE IN USA I mean a wrench that was made between 1960 & 1985 by a no-name company that your Grandad or Dad purchased and now you have about five or six of these oddball wrench's in your combo wrench drawer. For those who do not have this luck, you will have to buy a 7/16" regular everyday combo wrench and sacrifice it. I first placed the box end of the wrench on the bolt. Almost, but not quite enough clearance. So I heated up the wrench with the box en in the vise until dul red (MAP torch for 2 min or so) and took my trusy hammer and bent the offset back just a bit. Do not try to get it all at once. Too much offset and the wrench will just roll off the bolt head. Went back to the boat and tried the fit. Not enough, but closer. Did this three times until the wrench was a perfect fit. Then you must hold the box end of the wrench on the head of the bolt with your left fingers and try to sweep the bottom of the wrench to the right. The wrench because of it's heavier offset will want to roll off the hex. Just keep the pressure on with your left hand and the bolt will give. Then just work it out a bit of a time. It sucks, but it can be done.

When installing the new switches, line up the two white wedges and clip on the retainer. Keep the wedges lined up straight when installing them. Take some of the perfect seal and place it on the threads of one of the bolts. Bolt down the easy bolt almost all the way home.

Now comes another hard part. If you thought removing that upper bolt was tough, putting it back in is worse. What I did was I started the bolt into the hole. A tough job in itself. Now, the threads have not started yet. Hold the bolt with your right fingers in place. Bring up the box end with your left hand and get the wrench over the hex and switch it to your right hand. Then with your left hand bring up a small allen wrench to hold against the face of the bolt. This will give you the inward pressure you will need to drive the bolt in. Hold the allen wrench against the head and turn the box end wrench until the threads catch. Once they catch, go nice and easy with many breaks inbetween until that sucker is down.

That's it. Another fun Mercruiser project.....NOT.

Johnny
 

Evinrude Boater

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Jul 6, 2004
Messages
1,144
Re: Wire broke loose from Trim Sender Switch

I took mine apart and re-soldered the wire, shrink wrapped and liquid electrical tape and more regular electrical tape and it still works. I even did it in the water, just beached the boat. I think the replacement is sender and switch all in one.
 
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