Wiring my 14’ sea king from scratch….help!

[Seasons Recreational]

Hi all!

I am having my 14’ Sea King repainted as we speak and am starting to think about the electrical. I have a 2004 Johnson 9.9hp outboard that draws about 7 amps. I would like to do a 2-battery setup (house and Crank) and am having trouble figuring out the wiring. I would like to use the Blue Sea Systems ‘Mini Add-A-Battery’ system and a Blue Sea Systems 12 fuse block, split into 6-24 hour and 6-switched. I would also like to have a 6-switch panel. I am planning to add a trolling motor, but not sure where it would connect to the system. I’ve attached a wiring diagram that I’ve been able to scab together based on what I’ve learned. I have terminal fuses, but don’t know if they’re required. I have 60 amp breakers on each positive terminal. Hoping you all might be able to pick apart my diagram to see if it makes sense or to let me know where to tweak! Thank you all! Also, not sure what gauge wire. Figuring 8ga from battery all the way to fuse block, then 14 everywhere else. Thanks again!

 

[alldodge]

The Blue sea block gets only one hot and one ground.

Each switch gets one hot coming from one fuse. The other side of the switch goes to the component your powering. The ground from the component being power returns to ground bus.

Your motor charging system outputs 7 amps which will not be enough power to keep both Bats charged, so installing a ACR will be a waste. Need a Bat charger to recharge House Bat on trailer

Grounds from both start and house should be connected together so the house Bat can be combined to help start motor if needed

 

[Seasons Recreational]

The Blue sea block gets only one hot and one ground.

Each switch gets one hot coming from one fuse. The other side of the switch goes to the component your powering. The ground from the component being power returns to ground bus.

Your motor charging system outputs 7 amps which will not be enough power to keep both Bats charged, so installing a ACR will be a waste. Need a Bat charger to recharge House Bat on trailer

Grounds from both start and house should be connected together so the house Bat can be combined to help start motor if needed

Thanks alldodge, I didn’t think about the motor not being able to charge the batteries! I’ll re-explore my wiring diagram. I’ll repost the new diagram. If you happen to catch it, please comment!

 

[Seasons Recreational]

Dumb question, but in my case then should I consider a dual purpose battery and just use the pull start on the motor if I get into a jam?

 

[Seasons Recreational]

These are the two I’m looking at. Any reason anyone sees what the advantage of the split positive version would be?

 

[matt167]

On a 14’ like that, I assume it’s a tiller. Dual battery would be overkill unless you have a trolling motor, and with a 9.9 that in itself would be overkill..

I have a 14’ runabout and a 25hp Suzuki that outputs 14a iirc. I use a 4 circuit blue sea systems fuse block and a battery switch. That does all systems and safety systems on my little trailer boat. I use a group 27 marine starting battery and if SHTF it pulls over really easily

 

[jbcurt00]

Profile pix suggests closed bow runabout w a forward helm, dash & steering wheel.

Hopefully not a conversion to an open utility fishing boat

 

[alldodge]

Don't see any reason to split the power, and motor that can be pull started in most cases you should not need to combine

For a trolling motor I would use a deep cycle

Typical wiring

 

[airshot]

Looks like way overkill to me for a small tinnie, just how much electrical stuff are you going to have ? No offense intended here, just seems like way over thought out. My 16' tinnie has trolling motor, all the electronics, live wells, pumps, sterio, SS radio etc with far less fancy system. Your boat, your call, but I can see more fishing lures with the money you could save !! Mabey I am missing something.......

 

[Seasons Recreational]

On a 14’ like that, I assume it’s a tiller. Dual battery would be overkill unless you have a trolling motor, and with a 9.9 that in itself would be overkill..

I have a 14’ runabout and a 25hp Suzuki that outputs 14a iirc. I use a 4 circuit blue sea systems fuse block and a battery switch. That does all systems and safety systems on my little trailer boat. I use a group 27 marine starting battery and if SHTF it pulls over really easily

I’m glad I’ve outlined the worst case and can pair down! Thank you for the advice. I am planning to have a trolling motor, but might not be right away, but may plan to expand to a two battery system. I’ve seen some people even say to just have a single house battery and just pull start every time!

 

[Seasons Recreational]

Looks like way overkill to me for a small tinnie, just how much electrical stuff are you going to have ? No offense intended here, just seems like way over thought out. My 16' tinnie has trolling motor, all the electronics, live wells, pumps, sterio, SS radio etc with far less fancy system. Your boat, your call, but I can see more fishing lures with the money you could save !! Mabey I am missing something.......

Glad it can be paired down. I am not running much: nav lights, fish finder and some chargers probably. I will have a trolling motor eventually though. No, you’re not missing something. Just a ‘it’s my first boat’ guy and learning a lot!

 

[Seasons Recreational]

Profile pix suggests closed bow runabout w a forward helm, dash & steering wheel.

Hopefully not a conversion to an open utility fishing boat

Not a conversion. You are correct sir!

 

[Seasons Recreational]

Don't see any reason to split the power, and motor that can be pull started in most cases you should not need to combine

For a trolling motor I would use a deep cycle

Typical wiring
View attachment 397062

Valuable diagram sir! Thank you!