Mr Will, you do not have to use 20 amp rated outlets on the 20 amp circuit, but in a shop it does make sense. In a kitchen, 15 amp outlets on the 20 amp circuit is the norm. Also, put a 20amp rated GFI outlet as the first in the series or use a GFI breaker. <br /><br />A: If the pannel has a 20 amp breaker, all wire on the cirucit must be #12, even if you are just plugging in a neon night light. <br /><br />B: Same as A, but you don't HAVE to use 20 amp outlets, 15 amp outlets will meet code.<br /><br />Also, when wiring a room, there are code rules that must be followed about how far apart outlets in a room can be. Basically, there cannot be more than 12 feet between outlets (unless a door or archway is between them). I'm simplifying it, but a book on home wiring will lay it all out for you. Plus you will have a much better wiring job than if you just "wing it".Originally posted by JustMrWill:<br /> .... 20 amp breaker... in my "workshop"... I should run 12# wire from that to the 5 outlets in this area and I should use 20amp outlets. <br /><br />Some questions:<br /><br />a. I am installing a light switch for overhead shop light...this will be tied into this curcuit..can I use 14# wire and a 15amp outlet for shop light? or does it also have to be 12# and 20amp? <br /><br />b. Next room over will be my "fitness" center...overhead light and maybe a stereo...I am planning on putting 3 outlets in this room and was going to put it on the same circuit as shop area...do these have to be run with 12# and 20amp outlets? or can I "tie into" curcuit with 14# and 15amp outlets?<br /><br />Thanks in advance...sorry for hi-jacking...just working on my project when I read this ..now want clarification before I do anything else.<br /><br />-JMW
Resume:<br />Licensed by the state of California (mandatory). Worked for the IBEW for 10 years right outta high school. Non-working active member. Got my EE at USC class of 97. Did consultant work (electrical) for a local Architect Firm. <br /><br /> Would you hire me?Originally posted by divo:<br /> After reading some of the replies to this question (and others that are similar) I am wondering just how many who replied here are actually licensed electricians.
Thanks for clarifying that, crab bait. There are so many details in the code that the average do-it-yourself guy can't remember it all. I also don't have the $150 or so to drop on the NEC, so I rely on the home wiring books I have and trust that their examples and references to specific NEC codes are sufficient to keep the average wiring job to code.<br /><br />And there are lots of code that are very subjective. Such as romex can be exposed in a room, as long as it is run in a location that will not subject it to possable damage. Well, just how high up a wall is a safe height? 4ft? 7ft? Is the corner of a room safe? How about under cabinets or around door or window casings? It is a matter of interpretation.Originally posted by crab bait:<br /> ....<br />mark is also right on the 15 amp recepticals... but is also wrong.. <br /><br />a standard/regular duplex outlet is considered two outlets .. so one 15 amp duplex receptical on a 20 amp circut is fine..
The going rate for general electrical work in the SF area is around $130/hr for a licensed electrician, $70-$90/hr for an electrician (journeyman) working under someone elses license. But there are flat rates for common task like installing a duplex receptacle, recessed lights, whatever. At those rates there is lots of incentive for DIY electrical by homeowners.Originally posted by --GQ--:<br /> ... If you ask me, I think they should all have a BA degree to be making that kind of money ( $33/hr in LA and close to $40/hr around frisco area). ...
"The NEC does not specificly say 10 recept. per circuit"<br /><br /> Thats not what you said before.<br /><br /><br />Based on experience using arc-fault breakers for lighting circuit is useless since light fixtures are encased by protective enclosures and are permenately mounted on wall/cieling thus preventing accidental contact between equipments and personnel and any arcing inside the equipment would be suppressed, hence limiting fire hazard. <br /> <br /> You must be joking....<br /><br /> "Furthermore, "ARC"-fault breakers can not differentiate between normal arcing inside incondescent light bulbs( not all do) and unintended arcing where electrons jump between two conductors creating a path of hot flame where exposed to flammable materials/personnel may cause fire and or death. Consequentely, nuesance tripping will result."<br /><br /> The first batch that came out didnt work very well. Since they have fixed the bugs and now they work perfectly.<br /><br /><br />I have 20 years in the field. I am a state licensed master electrician,I have an unrestricted <br /> state electrical inspectors license. I am currently a self employed electrician and an electrical inspector for a local community. I did post my Idea/ solution..... Call the inspector. In my area, each municipality has their own rules. If you dont know what they are and you do it not the way the inspector wants.....you will have to redo it. I would be happy to help him out....but I have no knowledge of the local codes in his area. If he were to call the inspector and ask if there is any local amendments to the nec. When I am called to bid a job like this the first question i ask is....where is it. Until you know that, and their rules,...you cant even start.Originally posted by --GQ--:<br /> Ahhhh an answer leads to another question.....Devo you are mixing apples and oranges. The (3va x square foot) figure is used to calculate how much power/branch circuits needed for a certain area. It has nothing to do with recepticles rating. In residential wiring, general purpose outlets are rated at 180va. A 15a circuit at 120v would yield 1800va thus no more than 10 recepticles shall be used. The NEC does not specificly say 10 recept. per circuit, but based on infos. above, we can use reason and logic to come to this.<br /><br />Based on experience using arc-fault breakers for lighting circuit is useless since light fixtures are encased by protective enclosures and are permenately mounted on wall/cieling thus preventing accidental contact between equipments and personnel and any arcing inside the equipment would be suppressed, hence limiting fire hazard. Furthermore, "ARC"-fault breakers can not differentiate between normal arcing inside incondescent light bulbs( not all do) and unintended arcing where electrons jump between two conductors creating a path of hot flame where exposed to flammable materials/personnel may cause fire and or death. Consequentely, nuesance tripping will result.<br /><br />Mr. Divo you stated that, "50% of the replies above are flat out wrong". Please feel free to point them out to me. Having scrolled up and down the post, I notice you have disagreement with others comments/suggestions (right or wrong), but you have yet to post your ideas/solutions. Mr Divo sometime its easier to be part of a problem than it is to be a part of a solution. And you further stated, "I am wondering just how many who replied here are actually licensed electricians"........Simon says, what is your credential"?<br /><br /><br />18rabbit, those are union electrician rates I was refering to. The total packageincluding benefits is around $57, $67 per hour respectively. Your $70-$90 per hour figure is a bit too high. For residential wiring, you will go out of business. That maybe what a contractor would charge a customer.<br /><br /><br />One More Cast, "So when you say 10 outlets max does that mean 5 duplex receptacles"?<br /><br />A duplex is one recepticle with two "3 prongs connection pionts" on top of one another.