Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

[jpmack]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

well looking from the front of the engine, as i turned the crank pulley bolt to the left, it loosened and began to come out, i then begun turning it to the right till it tightened back up but was afraid to go to tight in fear of damaging the bolt, crank, or anything.

 

[paultjohnson]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

good point on the drive possibly causing probs. Like is the drive shaft on the outdrive and the gimble bearing assem all rusted together and locked up ???

 

[ChrisCraftJohnny]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

You have a normal engine. Tighten the bolt. You will not hurt anything. Just be sure the socket is on there square and don't let it slip. Your engine has problems so even if you do break the bolt (never seen anyone do this on a crank bolt) it really does not matter. If the bolt breaks off the engine is never going to start anyway. If you can't move the engine using this method the engine is TOAST. So, it looks like either way you are going to have to pull the engine.

But if the engine does move after you torque the bolt hard, you may still have a chance of saving this setup. But you must apply real force to the tool. If you baby it, it's never going to move.

Johnny

 

[jpmack]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

good point on the drive possibly causing probs. Like is the drive shaft on the outdrive and the gimble bearing assem all rusted together and locked up ???

would this be true even though the prop spins freely in both directions?

 

[ChrisCraftJohnny]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

good point on the drive possibly causing probs. Like is the drive shaft on the outdrive and the gimble bearing assem all rusted together and locked up ???

The rust on a gimble bearing or the like could not stop the pressure of a long breaker bar or cheater pipe setup. Just too much force. Remember this is not some 1/4-20 bolt here. The crank is beefy, the bolt is around a 5/8" (16mm)
Your not going to break anything that is not already F-ed up.

Know what I mean??

Johnny

 

[EddiePetty]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

would this be true even though the prop spins freely in both directions?

(Remember now...I'm a Mercruiser kinda guy)

If the prop spins freely in BOTH directions, you're in neutral!!!!

The only way I know to determine if the drive or engine is locked is to REMOVE the drive to eliminate that possibility.

 

[ChrisCraftJohnny]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

If you are really scared about the drive, remove it. Only takes a few bolts to do so. It looks like in your situation you will be removing the drive anyway. So why not do it now?

Remember, on boats, when something is wrong........

It's really F-in wrong!

Never a break. Ok maybe 1 in 100

Johnny

 

[jpmack]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

thanks everybody for the speedy responses and helpful info. I trully am a newbee with boats. I think i will go and ahead and remove the drive on sunday, as from what i have been reading is fairly easy.

If the engine is truely frozen, what will be my options, new engine? or can this be rebuilt?

 

[ChrisCraftJohnny]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

If it has never been REMANUFACTURED:
i.e bored over, decked, new internal parts etc. etc.

You can have it Remaned. Or receive a core rebate on another remaned engine.

Rebuilt is what shadetree mechanics do. Don't get a rebuilt engine.

Johnny

 

[AQ171C270SP]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

Engine:
Volvo Penta AQ 151 C
1987 - '89 ?

Outdrive:
Volvo Penta 290 Powertrim


I have recently acquired a 1988 Imperail V 184 with the hardware mentioned above. I am mechanicaly inclined and want to do what i can myself. All i knew when getting this boat was that the engine would not turn over, unfortenitly the person i had got the boat from has passed away (hence the reason for acquiring it) so I am unable to find out what was exactly wrong with it. My understanding is the last it was in water was in '07 and has been garaged since then. Right off the bat i noticed three problems, the engine wont turn over, watery/milky oil, and leaking antifreeze coolant. This leads me to beleive that it was improperly winterized.

Problem 1: Engine not turning over.

Currently the sympton is that the engine isn't turning over and only makes a 'clank' sound when i turn the ignition key. I have done the testing explained on this forum in the sticky: HOW TO: Troubleshooting your engines starting system with no success. I then took the starter completly off and ran it up to the local autoshop and had it tested. It tested fine. Reinstalled the starter, took a wire brush to all connections i could find from the battery to the starter to the engine. Checked both positive and neg battery cables with volts meter and all tested good. I am completely stumped on this. Any suggestions as to where i should go from here? I figure there is no reason to look at the other problems i have until i can at least get the engine to turn over. Could the engine be seezed? if so how do i test that? Below i have posted a picture of the starter and surrounding area. I did notice that there is another wire connection prong on the silonoid not being used (white arrow number 1 in picture). And therer is a stripped wire (white arrow number 2) just hanging there!

http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63916&stc=1&d=1281741530


Problem #2: Watery/Milky Oil

http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63917&stc=1&d=1281741530


Problem #3: Leaking Coolant

http://forums.iboats.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63918&stc=1&d=1281741530


Any help would be great,

Thanks

Take out all of your spark plugs. Get some marvel mystery oil and pour into each cylinder...put it in a spray bottle.Marvel will loosen up the rings and pistons if it is "frozen" from sitting.After it soaks about 24hrs or more follow what the others have told you and put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and try to turn it by hand.The boat wont start but disconnect battery anyway before attempting to turn with a breaker bar. remember the model A was started by cranking by hand.you said you had coolant leaks are they external coolant tubes,sea water strainer,waterpump.freezeout plugs also known as core plugs that are leaking?Is it where the head mounts to the block in which case a head gasket.You have some testing and looking to do.Hopefully you will find out and will be in the water soon

 

[AQ171C270SP]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

Last resort remove drive. I think your problem is from coolant in the cylinders and rust forming. use the marvel mystery oil first

 

[potatoe]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

it sounds like the motor will loosen up without a doubt , ive seen this happen plenty of times, especially with boats that sat for even one year. take out all the plugs, and BEFORE you try to turn engine with breaker bar or however, pput some marvel mystery oil or somthing similar into each plug hole, and let it work its way in. this will help loosen it up and free the motor. it will also help from scratching or damaging anything in there. it could be all dry with rust particles and whatever. even oil the plug holes the day before and let the oil sit in there overnight, and then try the starter. dont give up. even if motor is no good, you should still be able to free it up and mabye get it started if it ran when it was put away. good luck

 

[captmello]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

You don't need to pull the whole outdrive, just the upper gear box. Here's how.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=309095

 

[paultjohnson]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

would this be true even though the prop spins freely in both directions?

Yeah If its in nuetral the prop could spin but the shaft could still be frozen Because in nuetral the prop is disconected from the shaft-so to speak And as previous post stated it does take a lot of force to turn an engine over by hand. I have a 4.3 that runs perfect and it takes a lot of effort to turn with a socket on the pulley can hardly do it with a regular ratchet You may have to put a pipe on your ratchet and use 1/2 in drive , not a 3/8 or you will snap it off sure as sh!#

 

[jpmack]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

Sounds like I will be going out and getting some of that marvel oil. Do i just spray it in the spark plug holes? How much shoud I put in each one if so?

 

[Doernuth]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

Fill them and let them sit. It may take some time to get the corrosion loosened up. After sitting try and turn without putting the spark plugs back in. No need to add additional resistance.

I would pull the drive. If the upper is locked the engine will not turn.

If the engine turns compression check it and make sure it is still within specs.

 

[paultjohnson]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

I dont know that Marvel comes in a spray can. Put in as much as it takes till you feel confident that the inside of the cylinder and the pistons are totally saturated with it and be sure to leave the spark plugs out when you try to turn it over or you will be creating your own hydrolock situation

 

[potatoe]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

they usually come in small red and black bottles. not too exspensive. 1 or 2 split up between the cylinders should be fine, but like they said, filling the cylinders up wouldnt hurt. it will all blow out when motor turns over. just dont put the plugs back on till there empty. good luck

 

[jpmack]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

Well bad news, bad news and more bad news. I let the Marvel oil soak for 24+ hours, and attempted to turn the crank pulley with the socket and breaker bar as alot of you had suggested. Apperiantly I was a little to forcefull and just broke the crank bolt off in side the crank shaft!!!

 

[paultjohnson]

Re: Won't turn over, watery oil, coolant leak!

Ouch! Damn the bad luck... I have never heard of that happening Had you pulled the drive off at that point? Fortunantly you said that you had backed that nut out yesterday so its not frozen in the shaft. Shouldnt be THAT hard to remove the busted stud with an easy out or braze/weld a nut to the broken bolt and back it out. Thats a neat trick,Dont lose hope ! Did the engine free up at all ?