Wrench on the flywheel nut to turn the crank?

[CATransplant]

Re: Wrench on the flywheel nut to turn the crank?

Couple of things: First, the 10% ethanol won't cause you a problem. Second, you mentioned early on that you loosened the flywheel nut while trying to free up the engine. If you don't go on and pull the flywheel, be sure to torque that nut down, or you'll shear the flywheel key. I don't have the torque specs for that 18hp, though. Someone will chime in, I'm sure, with the number.

 

[yam350yfm]

Re: Wrench on the flywheel nut to turn the crank?

First, thanks for the tip on re-torque of the flywheel nut as I would not have done that before a test fire.

I would like to thank all for the help to date on this forum as I would not be to this point without all the tips and suggestions.

Here is the status. I was able to get new gaskets for the intake covers and installed those over the weekend. While turning the motor through by hand we engaged forward and reverse and the prop spins, so at least I know the lower unit is not seized. I still have to drain the lower unit fluid and get a new water pump impeller, but I do want to see if it will test fire before I do much more to it.

The compression was 105psi in each cylinder when I tested it after installing the intake gaskets. I did get a new set of plugs. The shop gave my jc4 and when I got home I see the old plugs are jc6. I assume they run different heat ranges. The existing plugs had a .032 gap so that is what I gapped the jc4's at. Any suggestions on which plug / gap to run? The jc4 were gapped at .028 before I re-gapped them.

My plan is to try and test fire this week sometime running the existing points and coils. The coils are not cracked, but I do plan to put new ones on it soon. Just want to see it run before I pull the flywheel and get into the tune-up and carb cleaning.