XR6 still running hot still cant firgure it out

Dukedog

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Oct 6, 2009
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I took the hose off that connects the 2 thermostats and replaced it with a clear hose im going to run the motor on muffs in a few hours to see if theres any air getting in the water

That's not a good test. Won't tell ya much. Just kinda tells ya that it "looks" like everything is workin' as it should.......It has ta be submerged and a load on it ta get real time results. Hell, I wooda been happy ta get any of my hot rod motors ta run at a controlled 180/185.......
 

merc150

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Jun 17, 2013
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Sorry if your at the back of the motor the sender for the gauge is at the top of the left head and the warning buzzer is at the top of my right head... I gutted the thermostats and ran the motor on muffs on the trailer and im running 30 degrees cooler (160 with therms and 130-135 with them gutted on the muffs) Havent had time to take it on the water.
 

merc150

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I also ran the motor with a clear hose (the hose that connects the 2 thermostats) and I did not see any air bubbles
 

Dukedog

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Glad its improvin' for ya but......11 ta 13 is very bottom of wot pressure scale. It still shouldn't heat up to alarm status with everything as it came from production. When ya gotta "modify anything" ta get it below over heat something is not right.............When you did tha pump there are four "main" parts ta be changed (with OEM stuff) other than gaskets. They are tha pressed in base (large plastic piece with o-ring, D-shaft seal). Stainless ride plate. Impeller. Housing. Have discovered just cause stuff is "new" don't make it good. More so with after market. Have seen brand new impellers "spin" on their sleeve when put under a load. Just tryin' ta cover all tha "could be's".................

Shouda ask earlier. Is this problem new or has it been this way since ya bought it?
 
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merc150

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Its being doing this for the past 2 years or so. I have owned the motor for about 2 1/2 to 3 years its very well maintained and taken care of. I fish tournaments down here in florida in the winter time when the water is cooler and the motor runs fine temp gauge would run 150-160 degrees and thats running the heck out of it all around the bay but when summer gets here its a whole different story lol thanks for the replies
 

merc150

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I took my boat out for a run this mourning after I gutted the thermostats and it still runs a 190 195 degrees. Again my seloc and mercury manuals both say my over heat alarm should turn on once the temp gets to 230 degrees and back off at 195. This is a carb motor not fuel injection. I know 180 degrees on a fuel injected optimax is over heating so Im starting to think 190 is a normal operating temp in these hot florida waters. Again Ive changed all the cooling components,gauges and temp sensor with same results. My water pressure is in specs with both of my manuals some parts have been changed twice with no difference. In the winter time with 60 degree water temps my motor runs around 150 160 so Im guessing my temps are normal even though both (2 different shops) of my mercury mechanics say its to hot. Ill just run the motor if it blows it blows then it will be time for a new E-TEC
 

Dukedog

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Well ya can look at it this way. Most boats tha temp gauge is an "option". Under normal conditions tha "buzzer" would be its only protection sooooo..........gl.
 

sam am I

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Jun 26, 2013
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Was thinking on this one just a bit the other day because I also see my average temp creeping up above my stats temp ever so slightly as summer water temps peak, but here, where I mainly boat it tops out around 70 F.

When the water is cold cold, like in the 30's, 40's, the motor runs at thermostat temps of course, which is around 140'ish F, but water now is around 70 F and I always see 150'ish F......Motor running temp is(also) definitely a function of coolant temp!!

So, say we live in a perfect linear world and we have a nice straight line for an equation, your volume of cooling flow/sec, motor age(wear/hrs), size, internal combustion temps, friction, etc., etc are all roughly the same as mine(or close anyway, 1992 175 carb.) and my motor is in perfect working order as is yours......

Then if we use my motor and lake as a baseline, 150/70 = 2.143, which then is a constant(a scalar) for a ratio of the normal(not hose) running/loaded at speed engine temp to water temp of 2.143:1 for engine temps above stat temps due to higher lake(guessing and appears to be above 70'ish F) coolant temps.

then at 90 F, you should run at 90*2.143 = 193 degrees F.

Just a theory.......Should be happening w others though, perhaps someone will chime in and confirm or debunk. IDK, I've never ran in 80/90 F waters.

However, the/a engine has to heat up/run hotter if we hold fixed parameters as above and run in higher coolant temps........Think about it this way, drop the motor in say 150 F water and run, I bet she'd run 300+ F , for a short while anyway :eek: and will always attempt to approach the source temp of the fire burning(and/or fiction, which ever is highest) in the cylinders as coolant temps increase.

The floor/running temp is limited to the and a function of stats closing temp, but the ceiling/running temp is a primary function of varying coolant temps, fixed'ish combustion temp and the fixed'ish volume(stats open, poppet open and impeller volume and rate at WOT) of water moved through the motor.
 
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merc150

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Jun 17, 2013
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Thanks for the reply sam...makes sense... I noticed over the weekend that the water out of my tell tale at mid to higher rpms is pulsing my mechanic said the pulsing through the tell tale at high rpms is a sign of a head gasket. My compression numbers are 125 psi in all 6 but he said they can start to leak around 2000 rpm as pressure builds up. Im not seeing any sign of a head leak on my spark plugs as they all look normal
 
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