yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

largewake

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Messages
35
i have recently bought a yami 90 which has been laid in a boatyard for a year, the third carb (bottom one) drips fuel while running on flush muffs. the fuel in the tank was rotten, so i have drained all off and refuelled with unleaded (10 gall + 1 ltr quicksilver oil) and run the engine for 40 mins+ and discovered the drip from carb 3- any ideas on curing this? my local boat / marine store is still trying to find someone competant to repair/service engines otherwise i would have had a full service on her- previus owner(trustworthy) says it run ok for him and he serviced it 4 running hours prior to selling boat & engine combo.
 

Backlash

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
May 16, 2001
Messages
586
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

Where exactly is the fuel leaking? Throat, float bowl, body of carb?<br />Backlash
 

Bozo

Seaman
Joined
Aug 22, 2002
Messages
59
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

I would wager that one of the floats is stuck in the carb. That woul allow fuel to continue to to fill the bowl and not shut off the supply when it is supposed to resulting in the dripping of gas.<br /><br />I would suggest getting the carbs rebuilt. If you are mechanically inclined you can do it yourself. If not, pay to get it done before you try it yourself.
 

largewake

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Messages
35
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

further to this, i do not have a manual for this engine, and would appreciate a exploded view of the carbs section should you have one, with idle and jet positions/ strip down & clean details.
 

largewake

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Messages
35
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

thanks, its leaking out of the carb thruot, ie the front air intake.
 

largewake

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Messages
35
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

i have had to adjust the tick over speed to maintain running otherwise it dies off slowly, i have heard of tapping the bowl, does this work and should it be done whilst running?<br /><br />can you recommend a good carb cleaning spray to blast them with when i run her up next time, and any supplier in the uk that stocks it?
 

Bozo

Seaman
Joined
Aug 22, 2002
Messages
59
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

That usually works when the float is stuck up and the bowl is starving for fuel.<br /><br />Being that the bowl is over filling (if that is indeed the problem) then the float may have a hole in it and filled with fuel and not able to float. Beating on it will have no effect because it isn't going to float no matter what you do.<br /><br />I would suggest taking the carb off and removing the bowl. If you are careful you may be able to seperate the bowl from the body without tearing the gasket. This will allow you to examine the float assembly and see if it is filled with fuel. <br /><br />The float is held in place by a pin that comes out by pushing it on either end. Be very carful and look at how everything goes as you remove it. There will be a small piece hanging from the float held on by a spring looking wire. That is the "needle". It should have a pointed rubber tip on it. If the rubber tip is grooved or damaged/missing, you will need a new one. (the rubber tip is what forms the seal to keep the gas from further filling the bowl once the float has "floated" to the top.)<br /><br />Now that you have the float out, shake it and make sure you don't hear any liquid inside of it. Stick it in a glass of water and see if it remains dry on the inside. <br /><br />If nothing seems wrong, get a can of carb cleaner and spray it down really good and put it all back together like you found it. <br /><br />Try it out and if the problem persists, I would buy carb kits and rebuild it. (Actually if it was mine I would rebuild all three of them)
 

rickdb1boat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
11,195
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

largewake <br />Yes, sometimes tapping on the bowl with a screwdriver handle or equiv. will free up a stuck float temporaily. Give it a try before you start it. If it works, I would rebuild ALL the Carbs before continuing on, as it will just stick again when you least expect it.
 

largewake

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Messages
35
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

o.k. now for the big one, any ideas on where to get a carb kit for the carbs and what is the average cost of the kits? and it must be online!
 

largewake

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Messages
35
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

ok. i will give it a tap first and run her again, and if it re occurs then i will have it serviced when my local marine shop can find a bloody mecnic/spanner jockey.<br />thanks for all your help and the link page.<br />it is appreciated.
 

largewake

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Messages
35
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

next question- when i regreased the prop splines i re assembled in reverse order and noted that when the castlelated nut went on, it was recessed further back, and the split pin does not engage in the nut, but sits on its own apart from the nut, as the previus owner supplied 5 props and varius spares i noted that there was a prop spacer in the box of goodies, should this have origanally been fitted, prior to fitting the castlelated nut?
 

rickdb1boat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
11,195
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

The "Spacer" (Thrust Washer) goes on first, then prop, then nut and pin.<br /><br />EDIT: Unless it is just a Washer, in which case, it goes on before the nut is installed.<br /><br />Kinda like this:<br /><br />
01OBAC05-07-500.jpg
 

Harry Blanchard

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Nov 9, 2002
Messages
35
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

I checked on 3 gsket sets for my C85 carbs, essentiallly the 90 without oil injection, and they wanted $70.00 per carb. I decided not to do it at this time since they are fine, just wanted to do it for preventive maintenance.
 

largewake

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Messages
35
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

mine is also none oil injection, i would appreciate any tips on this engine, as this is all new to me, i have allways hired boats for holidays, but this is my first as an owner, i have no manuals at all with the boat or engine which makes it hard to find out whats what! <br />The local marine shop is not geared up for boat owners as yet, they run the stock down during winter, but they advised that i should run at 10 gal/1 ltr oil mix as it has not been run for a year, i just have this sticking float on the third carb at the moment, which may resolve itself after a couple of runs, the engine could do with a good clean as the preventative corrosion spray has attractted all the dirt and dust,i was going to blast the carbs with a cleaner as a preventative measure, and the electric conections with a contact cleaner, i run it for 20 mins last weekend and the rev counter started bouncing all over the place( i did not think that it worked!)held at the revs for a couple of minutes and went off again.<br />i feel that a good clean up of engine and contacts may be prudent before we take her to sea, where can i check the gear oil in the leg? where is the drain screw located and the fill point?<br />any advice is appreciated.<br />i also notice that the battery leads are black inside instead of copper colored which suggests water corrosion, so i am trying to restore them in the near future, i also notice that the starter jams fron time to time, possibly due to a poor battery, if you leave it 5 minutes it starts o.k. which would indicate poor power output from the battery (supplied with boat,new last year,before standing unrun for a year at the boatyard!) alternative battery available with 80 amp power.
 

largewake

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Feb 20, 2003
Messages
35
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

and finnally,how do you add a picture to your mail so i can show you all what i mean!
 

rickdb1boat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 23, 2002
Messages
11,195
Re: yamaha 90hp ~1988 3 cyl

largewake <br />Remove and Clean all the terminals going to your Tachometer(Rev Counter) and also clean all other terminals that may be corroded. Do this by removing then and wire brushing them clean until a bright shiny copper or silver look has been achived. Just spraying them with cleaner will do no good. This would include both ends of the starter cable at the battery and starter. Also do the negative wires as well. Do this with any suspect wires that you find. Check to be sure the battery has a full charge and the terminals are clean. As far as the lower unit gear lube change, refer to the picture below for fill and drain screws. Do not remove any that may have a "Phillips Head" type screw!! Remove the top Vent Screw and then remove the bottom Drain/Fill screw and let it drain for an hour or so. Get yourself some "high viscosity" lower unit gear lube and refill from the "Bottom" screw until it comes out the top(Vent) screw. Quickly replace the top screw and then the bottom(Using new seals on the screws (IMPORTANT). I would still strongly advise that you rebuild the carbs before adventuring too far out, as that float may stick again at the worst possible time!! Good Luck,<br /><br />
shaftexmp.bmp
 
Top