Yay it runs! But...

[Angrywasp]

Got my 3.0 OMC running (beautifully) today and after getting the idle set to ~700 like it's supposed to be I wanted to test that the trans was good and would spin the prop. I was planning to just get forward and reverse motion to verify proper operation but the motor would start bogging down very badly and then it would die. I'm assuming it's stalling out because of a trans issue. What should I look for when I pull it off that could cause this? Anyone have an idea what might cause this? The motor is not fully trimmed down even though the trim motor/reservoir is removed (by PO) and won't lower further but it has about 3-3.5" of piston travel to full rise. I'm not sure if the issues might be related or not since the drive should drop all the way down without the hydraulic lock created by the tilt pump.

 

[Don S]

Re: Yay it runs! But...

You probably have a bad lower shift cable, when you put it in gear, its engaging the shift interrupt/ESA system and it shuts of spark to half the cylinders. just watch the Y bracket on the engine where the cables attach. Going into gear, it shouldn't move at all.

 

[Angrywasp]

Re: Yay it runs! But...

It looks like I do have a bad lower cable as the Y-piece was moving when I engaged the drive. I unhooked the switch and then shifted into forward. The motor didn't cut out but the prop still didn't spin. I only took the motor up to 1K rpms as it's only got water muffs on it for cooling but I would think that would give me at least some prop movement. Would unhooking the switch cause the trans not to shift?

 

[fishinpa]

Re: Yay it runs! But...

No shifting is mechanical !

the switches only interupt electrically and then only affect the engine operation to some degree.


fish

 

[Don S]

Re: Yay it runs! But...

IF the cable is froze up and not moving full travel, it Won't shift right.

 

[Angrywasp]

Re: Yay it runs! But...

Okay I'll try working on that before doing major surgery on the drive.

 

[Angrywasp]

Re: Yay it runs! But...

Well I pulled the outdrive off and found what I think is the problem. The shift cable works fine with the drive removed. The shift lever on the motor won't move up or down. I reinstalled the drive and tried shifting the motor with no luck. How much work am I looking at to disassemble the upper and lower drive? I've got pretty much all the tools I could possibly need (except for specialty tools for the drive). Can I pull the prop and inspect the lower for any damage without pulling the drive entirely apart?
Edit: There's also probably some water in the drive oil as the oil at the upper access cover has a milky look it. Not sure if it may have damaged the drive or not.

 

[Angrywasp]

Re: Yay it runs! But...

Well I found why it wouldn't shift into gear. The seal around the shift rod is very tight and makes moving the shift lever almost impossible. I got it working decently but the drive controls still won't shift the trans so I get to take the drive off again tomorrow. I'll probably use some 1500 grit wet sandpaper on the parts of the shaft that go through the seal assembly to try and make the shift easier. When I'm done how easily should the shift cable move? Without the drive it moves nice and smooth with minimal effort. I would expect it would be a little stiffer with the trans attached.

 

[woosterken]

Re: Yay it runs! But...

angry,
here is a link to down load a manual for OMC , from what i understand it is a seloc manual
but better than nothing

http://www.4shared.com/file/117511719/7a0aca45/OMC_64-86.html

woosterken

 

[Angrywasp]

Re: Yay it runs! But...

Thanks for the link but I already picked up the one from the adults only section. Once more into the breech.