yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

[trappedgenius]

I just bought an 82 gamefisher (eska/tecumseh) 7.5 model number 217585750. the tecumseh model is av817-640-19b. It ran in a tank before I bought it, and I picked it up for $300. I hooked it up at home after getting a tank and hose and ran it in my 44 gallon water can just to make sure everything was hooked up right. I let it idle for a while, put it in gear and revved it a little to make sure everything sounded okay before taking it to the lake. I put her on the water today, cranked her up and let her warm up for about 5 minutes and then put it in gear, went a few hundred yards at idle speed to get out of the cove where I put in and then opened up the throttle. There was a loud pop and it died. Blew a pea sized chunk out of the side of the cylinder wall. I've ordered a used powerhead: http://www.ebay.com/itm/16064031796...spagename=STRK:MEWAX:IT&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1413
and I was wondering what gaskets I need to replace when I swap them and if there is anything I should look at as far as a cause of the original one blowing up. I don't want to replace it and then have the same thing happen again. Also, any help with a how to for this job would be appreciated. Thanks guys!

 

[MahtyMaht]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

Here's a good place to get part numbers;

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...47/1305320?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=217585750

Ya gotta sign up with this crew;

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/eskaoutboards/?v=1&t=directory&ch=web&pub=groups&sec=dir&slk=4010

You can get parts from Certified Parts Corporation, but the site is useless, call'em with part numbers in hand. They got Tecumseh part stocks when Tec went tits up. I think this number works - (608)-752-9441

You can also get parts here;

http://www.boatsportandtackle.com/servlet/the-ESKA--dsh--Sears--fdsh--Ted-Wms/Categories

Avoid aftermarket gaskets, the thickness difference at the carb flange screws up the throttle cam setting on the stator, and it's a nuisance to have to figure out, then reset. Got any post mortem pics of that blown power head? I'd be curious to know what happened there. If you don't know how long it's been since the pump impeller was replaced, do that, too, you don't need another catastrophic failure. Don't let the fins fool ya, it need water cooling the bottom end. Was that motor moving water in the can?

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

I'm afraid you wasted your money on that block, you have a points model engine with positive drive so the crank will not work at all, hopefully your crank is not damaged ( can't believe its not) and you won't have to much trouble with finding the right lower seal.
You will need every seal & gasket the engine calls for except the side covers, also you will want to replace the top & bottom crank bearings, rod bearings & re ring it, You will need a Shop manual too If you go through with this expect to have a bunch of $$ in it, I would see if I could back out of that ebay motor.

Edit:

the other option is to lay hands on a Solid State ignition....that would be the cheaper route.

Nope forget that the crank still won't work, your positive shift has female 7/16 crank splines, sorry...your whole case rest on your original crank being good and straight

I guess your user name says it all.....LOL anything I can do to help let me know and you should have came here first....

Mahty he needs the exact NLA block we both have setting new in the box. I wonder if there is another in the world?

best regards,
mrcrabs

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

if you do go through with this I would first take your old crank to a machine shop and have it checked for runout, otherwise you will just blow it up again when it beats the rod bearings out.

 

[MahtyMaht]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

Mine is sitting on it's throne atop the leg, by God! I would not enjoy having to put the guts in the block. I have that same ebay block with the guts in it, and I'm running the driveshaft and lower unit from it on my black points motor. If he can make the SSI engine go, I think he'd have a motor. I guess the bottom line is that it's either a points motor, or an SSI motor, but the cranks are not interchangeable, because the flywheel keys are in different places, so no Frankenstein hybrid of the two. And no, Mr. C, I suspect that if there are any more boxed up factory fresh ones left in the world, they are in the possession of those who have no clue they are there, no idea what they are, or no interest. We got the last train out of that station, I think.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

We got the last train out of that station

thats funny.cause.all my life I have felt like a desparato waitin on a train.
and your tellin me I got on? and I didn't even remember it....now that was a trip worth taking




the SSI bit won't fly because the posi shift if you remember has a female splined crank, his ebay block is from a clutch shift w/5/8 shaft, he needs his crankshft to be in good order....the seal problem can be delt with

 

[trappedgenius]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

thats funny.cause.all my life I have felt like a desparato waitin on a train.
and your tellin me I got on? and I didn't even remember it....now that was a trip worth taking




the SSI bit won't fly because the posi shift if you remember has a female splined crank, his ebay block is from a clutch shift w/5/8 shaft, he needs his crankshft to be in good order....the seal problem can be delt with

ok, so you're saying that the block assy. I got on ebay won't work in my motor? What is the difference between the posi shift and clutch shift? and what does points model mean?

 

[trappedgenius]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

Ok I think I see why the block I ordered won't work... Does anyone know where I could find an assembled block that would work? Thanks.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

but i took the serial number from the motor the part I ordered and pulled up the diagram to compare part numbers from that motor and my motor and the part numbers were all the same. Also, my motor is a clutch shift.

Based on model numbers you gave and the one in the ebay sale and not block serial numbers, I'm looking at both gear housing assembly's and your model is a positive shift Gamefisher and the other is a clutch shift Ted Williams.
Now I an't sayin that you don't already have a mixed up machine but sometimes they get cobbled up, What I'm saying is you have a points model engine with a long straight woodruff key and a female splined crankshft, the other block is from a SSI clutch shift w/halfmoon woodruff key cut in another location than the points motor...according to the model numbers. If your machine is true blue then your only hope is that your old crank is good, Swap a roo, you may have to measure the lower seal housing to ID it...we can help you with that, but like I said and will say again your crank has to be GOOD! or its a no go....unless you model number is wrong

here you look up the diargams I'm looking at,

ebay motor: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...247/1305320?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=21758890

your motor; http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...47/1305320?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=217585750

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

I'm glad you see the point,

Does anyone know where I could find an assembled block that would work?

Mahty got a brand new one....I bet he would let it go for mucho denaro or a brand new CDI for his twin

 

[trappedgenius]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

Based on model numbers you gave and the one in the ebay sale and not block serial numbers, I'm looking at both gear housing assembly's and your model is a positive shift Gamefisher and the other is a clutch shift Ted Williams.
Now I an't sayin that you don't already have a mixed up machine but sometimes they get cobbled up, What I'm saying is you have a points model engine with a long straight woodruff key and a female splined crankshft, the other block is from a SSI clutch shift w/halfmoon woodruff key cut in another location than the points motor...according to the model numbers. If your machine is true blue then your only hope is that your old crank is good, Swap a roo, you may have to measure the lower seal housing to ID it...we can help you with that, but like I said and will say again your crank has to be GOOD! or its a no go....unless you model number is wrong

here you look up the diargams I'm looking at,

ebay motor: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...247/1305320?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=21758890

your motor; http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...47/1305320?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=217585750

ok...so if my crankshaft isn't damaged, should I be able to use my current crankshaft and then use all of the other parts from the block I got from ebay? The only things that have been replaced on my motor are wear and tear items like gaskets and reeds and rings. And what is runout?

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

Yep, you should able too, check your rod and bearing numbers at sears, as a matter of fact cross check every part number you think you need too swap or buy and record them, be careful with needle bearings there easy to lose, Oh and I think its wise to replace at the least the upper crank bearing which would now be a koyo y 148, clean and smooth the babbit race on the stator plate.... the bottom bearing is hard to replace and get seated correctly but if you do it like the book says "heat the block in oil to 400 degrees it goes right in. Check your lower bearing for wobble and ruffness.

 

[MahtyMaht]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

I did get a spankin' new points powerhead, and I promptly slapped it on my motor leg, with the lower unit from my dump rescued stator motor. I still have the stator motor powerhead, and THAT, I could be persuaded to part with. It has the head and rotating assembly un-f'd with, so it would only need a stator. I think I sent that sucker off in the mail somewhere, but it seems to me that if a fella could find a dead one and fix it, that would be the shortewst route to a cheap runner.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

Mine is staying in the box, until the market goes up, I was offered $200 for my powerhead locally.

we ned to find you the name and nunber of the guy I hooked Ed up with, he's got all the stuff according to Ed. I will look in my back mail today...

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

Here you go, injoy
Dave Mettle at Dave?s Boats 614-864-7057 has Eska ignitions dead and alive,

 

[trappedgenius]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

mrcrabs... just out of curiosity, do you do marine work professionally? I only ask because i've seen your replies to many many questions on this forum and other sites as well, and it seems like you're the person to go to with any kind of question. I'll call Dave once i do the tear down in the next few days and take stock of what exactly went wrong and what broke. Thanks again for your help with this and I hope you're having a great weekend.

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

....all Ohio River Rats are outboard mechanics, were are all born with this knowlage,

 

[trappedgenius]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

OK everyone, I finally tore down the motor and found out why it blew up. one of the two screws holding the rod on to the crankshaft came out and got caught between the rod and cylinder wall and cracked it and then it just blew out where the crack was. Luckily, the crankshaft isn't damaged, but now I've got a couple more questions. First, what it the best way to clean the used block I got from ebay and prep it for use? Second, what the best cleaner to get rid of all of the old gasket junk and prep for new gaskets? Third,is there anything I should do while I've got it torn down? And lastly, is there any kind of seal for the water tube where it goes into the exhaust plate? The diagram isn't the clearest thing in the world on the sears site. Thanks in advance, Jason

 

[mrcrabs]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

what it the best way to clean the used block

ethanol gas...it will even remove the paint

what the best cleaner to get rid of all of the old gasket junk and prep for new gaskets?

ethanol gas...it will even remove the paint

Third,is there anything I should do while I've got it torn down? And lastly, is there any kind of seal for the water tube where it goes into the exhaust plate?

I would replace the bottom crank bearing if it rolls ruff and wobbles to much, I would definitly replace the upper crank bearing koyo y 148 or this one I use, INA SCE148 Needle Bearing 7/8" ID
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280528363753?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I used a fine emory to smooth the babbit thrust bearing on the bottom of the stator plate, and used a very light coat of blue hylomar on all gaskets for great sealing.

On the water tube they are either held in place with an aluminium nut and washer or a fat oring, if its the Oring type replace the O ring or use some ATV sealant or aviation gasket sealant on your water tube top end when you install it.

 

[trappedgenius]

Re: yet another sears / gamefisher / eska / tecumseh 7.5 question

Thanks mrcrabs... i think i might be in back in business in a few weeks.