Re: You were right Joe
Amp gauges have "0" in the middle of the scale and then read either charge (+ amps) to the right of 0 and discharge (- amps) to the left of 0. For this gauge to work it needs to be wired between the output of the rectifier/regulator and the battery (+ post). To do this, you would disconnect the rectifier/regulator output lead (typically connected to the starter solenoid). That lead must then be extended to reach the gauge on the console. Another wire is then run from the other terminal of the gauge to the terminal on the solenoid where the rectifier/regulator had been connected. 10 gauge wire should be used for these wires since they carry the full load for your entire electrical system and this is a very long run. Since your engine has a relatively low output alternator, don't expect to see much movement of the needle into the positive (charge) region of the gauge. With all accessories on you may not see much movement in the discharge (-) region either. It all depends on how the gauge is calibrated. If its highest number is 10 for example, you may see 5 amps or so when the battery is being charged. If this is an automotive gauge it likely has 30 or 60 amps as its max reading. If that's the case, don't bother installing it as you will never see the gauge move on your engine. Voltmeters make much more sense in a boat and are easier to wire since smaller wire can be used and all connections can be made at the helm.
