zinc anode replacement

roffey

Commander
Joined
Nov 22, 2012
Messages
2,206
I am replacing the zinc anodes on my outdrive. My question is do the zinc anode have to be on bare metal? I painted the out drive or part of it last winter and I notices one of the anode had paint on it and where it attaches to the drive. I'm thinking maybe I should remove the paint or does it make a difference as the bolt makes the connection to the drive.
 

dingbat

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 20, 2001
Messages
16,313
Probably doesn't matter one way or the other.

If your concerned, grab a meter and check for continuity between the zinc and the prop. Better yet the negative battery terminal.

If you have continuity your good. To be doubly certain, take an ohm reading. Should be very close to, if not 0.
 

roffey

Commander
Joined
Nov 22, 2012
Messages
2,206
Probably doesn't matter one way or the other.

If your concerned, grab a meter and check for continuity between the zinc and the prop. Better yet the negative battery terminal.

If you have continuity your good. To be doubly certain, take an ohm reading. Should be very close to, if not 0.

I'll give it a try. I'm thinking it will be ok as the bolt goes through the middle of it and into the drive.
 

tpenfield

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,137
Usually, a 'star' lock washer is used (should be used) to 'bite' into the anode and create a good electrical connection. I often put a star washer between the anode and a painted surface to dig in through the paint.
 

roffey

Commander
Joined
Nov 22, 2012
Messages
2,206
tpenfield , that's exactly what I did and your right the lock washer is what was on and what came with the anode.I think all I need now is the nod to wet the boat and i'm good.
 

H20Rat

Vice Admiral
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
5,204
Depending on where your boat is, 'zincs' shouldn't be zinc. zinc for salt, aluminum for salt/brackish, and magnesium for fresh.
 
Top