Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Lone Duck

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
868
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Here's tonight's progress report. Ground down the old paint and fiberglass on the bottom of the boat, glad that's done! And decided to cut the cavatation plate off. Still plenty of strength, left about three quarters of an in down each side of the lower unit so it should be plenty strong. Got to get the paint off the lower unit next where the glass will go. Mistake number one, the vent screw, mistake number two, not removing the paint on the lower unit, should have done that while it was out of the boat. O'well just a little more work!:(
Looking real good, it is coming together nicely. I am still worried about not having a keel or a guard of some kind so what ever you hit will ride up and over the L U and you will hit some thing sooner or later. Course we are not going 50 mph are we. A 4 ft long 2x6 glassed in at the same time as the L U might do it. tapered from 0 to 6"
 

maxum247

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 18, 2007
Messages
1,363
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Looking real good, it is coming together nicely. I am still worried about not having a keel or a guard of some kind so what ever you hit will ride up and over the L U and you will hit some thing sooner or later. Course we are not going 50 mph are we. A 4 ft long 2x6 glassed in at the same time as the L U might do it. tapered from 0 to 6"

Been giving that some thought myself, problem is if I put any kind of keel on the boat right now I won't be able to haul it in the back of the truck. Can't raise the height of the bunk in the back of the truck, I'm at the limit for launching from the back of the truck now and getting the boat back up in the back of the truck. There's no money in the budget right now for a trailer, so I guess I'm going to have to take a chance:)!
 

Lone Duck

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
868
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Been giving that some thought myself, problem is if I put any kind of keel on the boat right now I won't be able to haul it in the back of the truck. Can't raise the height of the bunk in the back of the truck, I'm at the limit for launching from the back of the truck now and getting the boat back up in the back of the truck. There's no money in the budget right now for a trailer, so I guess I'm going to have to take a chance:)!
I hear ya. I'll just keep my fingers crossed. Have fun putting L U on .
 

MikDee

Banned
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
4,745
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Been giving that some thought myself, problem is if I put any kind of keel on the boat right now I won't be able to haul it in the back of the truck. Can't raise the height of the bunk in the back of the truck, I'm at the limit for launching from the back of the truck now and getting the boat back up in the back of the truck. There's no money in the budget right now for a trailer, so I guess I'm going to have to take a chance:)!

Ahh, Just remember it's an "inboard", and a lot of them have no keel either, just a skeg, no big deal, there's countless numbers of them on the water, owners usually allow for that fact to keep it in deep enough water, and just deal with. If I was worried about it, I might run a piece of 3/4" EMT electrical tubing, down on an angle fastened to the bottom of the boat, and the skeg of the lower unit, for some protection, and rigidity.
 

Lone Duck

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
868
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Ahh, Just remember it's an "inboard", and a lot of them have no keel either, just a skeg, no big deal, there's countless numbers of them on the water, owners usually allow for that fact to keep it in deep enough water, and just deal with. If I was worried about it, I might run a piece of 3/4" EMT electrical tubing, down on an angle fastened to the bottom of the boat, and the skeg of the lower unit, for some protection, and rigidity.
Ah! But once metal is hit it stays bent . Thats why I like wood. And thats what I meant (skeg). But he can't do it now so I guess we wait and see.
 

maxum247

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 18, 2007
Messages
1,363
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Well I've gone and done it again, change my mind I mean! Decided fiberglassing the lower unit in place just wasn't going to work, without it being a lot of work. It looked like it was going to be a lengthy process, too lengthy. So I stopped and picked up a tube of 5200 tonight after work and came home and cut out new wood blocks simular to the first set that I made, only lower profile to cut down on drag. In two hours I'm Half way there on getting the lower unit fastened up. I could see several days of glassing, waiting and grinding to get things set up right. Didn't like the idea, so I had to come up with something else. This picture shows the old blocks I made to fasten the lower unit in, the new one's are lower as well as longer. Soon as I get the new one's in place I'll take some pictures so you can see the difference. I solved the oil vent screw problem by hollowing out a place on the inside of one of the blocks.:cool:
 

Attachments

  • Picture 034.jpg
    Picture 034.jpg
    55.1 KB · Views: 0

MikDee

Banned
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
4,745
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Sorry to hear you have to go thru so much work! But, Do what you gotta do, to get the "Shaker" done to your satisfaction! ;)
 

maxum247

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 18, 2007
Messages
1,363
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Here's the new version of fastening the lower unit in place, just have it screwed in with six screws right now and it's solid. Next will be to take it apart and reassemble with 5200.:)
 

Attachments

  • Picture 018.jpg
    Picture 018.jpg
    55.2 KB · Views: 0
  • Picture 019.jpg
    Picture 019.jpg
    56 KB · Views: 0

MikDee

Banned
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
4,745
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Looking Good! Looking Fine! Going out for the day, but I just realized something because of the straight back angle of your prop, (like an outboard) it will be more efficiant then the usual angled down prop of an inboard. :)
 

scoutabout

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Oct 14, 2006
Messages
1,568
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Yep -- that's looking great. Nice job patching up the bottom of the hull too.
 

maxum247

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 18, 2007
Messages
1,363
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Yep -- that's looking great. Nice job patching up the bottom of the hull too.

Moved the boat outside today. Didn't want to smell the house up with 5200 odor. I beleive the temperature needs to be above fourty to use the 5200, not going to make that today maybe tommorrow!

It'll give me chance to sweep up the garage. Maybe get started on the rudder!:)
 

Scaaty

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 31, 2004
Messages
5,180
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

5200 will not harden for 10-14 days at 70..SLOW cure time:eek:
I have some leftover 5200, and 4200 (it will start to cure the minute you open it and its hits air). In the fridge, been there a year..still soft
 

Lone Duck

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
868
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Moved the boat outside today. Didn't want to smell the house up with 5200 odor. I beleive the temperature needs to be above fourty to use the 5200, not going to make that today maybe tommorrow!

It'll give me chance to sweep up the garage. Maybe get started on the rudder!:)
While you are sweeping the garage, I want you to think about encapsulating your wooden blocks with epoxy resinon all sides & ends. At least 2 coats before you glue things together. Make those blocks moisture proof as much as possible. Even after it is all together I would put 1 coat of 6ounce fiberglass over it all, over lapped onto the hull. Not the time for shortcuts now. What wood are you using?
 

maxum247

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 18, 2007
Messages
1,363
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

While you are sweeping the garage, I want you to think about encapsulating your wooden blocks with epoxy resinon all sides & ends. At least 2 coats before you glue things together. Make those blocks moisture proof as much as possible. Even after it is all together I would put 1 coat of 6ounce fiberglass over it all, over lapped onto the hull. Not the time for shortcuts now. What wood are you using?

It's oak or at least I think it's oak of some sort don't really know my woods that well. I read up on different woods but oak is one that I can't tell the difference in. I know white oak would be the best for this from the reading I've done. I can't tell if it's white oak or something else, has kind of a reddish tint to it so I don't think it's white oak which means covering with glass would be neccessary as to it not being as rot resistant as white oak. Or at least that's what I read if I remember correctly, been awhile ago. Heres a picture of the what I used. I can tell you that it is used here for shipping pallots. We recive boxes of paper stacked on them.:confused:
 

Attachments

  • Picture 020.jpg
    Picture 020.jpg
    55.8 KB · Views: 0
  • Picture 021.jpg
    Picture 021.jpg
    54.3 KB · Views: 0
  • Picture 022.jpg
    Picture 022.jpg
    56 KB · Views: 0

Lone Duck

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
868
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Hard to tell but it looks like oak. How's our budget doing you should be close.
 

MikDee

Banned
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
4,745
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

From what you're saying it's used for, I know the wood, It's "scrub oak" some of the strongest wood available. By the way, you've done a nice neat streamlined job!
 

maxum247

Lieutenant
Joined
Sep 18, 2007
Messages
1,363
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Hard to tell but it looks like oak. How's our budget doing you should be close.

Well lets see! Wire reinforced hose for coupling, 4 stainless hose clamps, 2 broken drill bits,stainless bolts, stainless nylon locking nuts, stainless washers, stainless lock washers, 5200, caulking gun, hacksaw blades, several jigsaw blades, new drill, lower unit seal, galvanized pipe and cap for oil drain, galvanized pipe and elbows for exhaust, muffler, paint, stainless screws. New crankshaft seal and gasket for engine. Haven't kept close track but think I'm about there now as a guess, still have to buy a battery and hardware for the rudder. "New drill, drill bits, hacksaw blades and jigsaw blades threw the budget off by about fifty dollars. So I'll probably end up with around $150-$175 dollars invested as a guess when finished! Some of the items I purchased didn't get used, bolts and such so there was extra coast there, figure I'll need them on another project sometime. Purchased everything I could in stainless steel so that tripled the cost on those items. A 9 cent steel nut becomes 24 cent in stainless! Dollars add up quick buying stainless steel!

I'm probably off a few dollars one way or the other, but am happy with the investment, be hard to buy any other kind of power for that kind of money!:)
 

Lone Duck

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
868
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

/Users/mac/Desktop/y-knott.jpg
You got that right. The boat I built from scratch cost me 12000.00 including motor and trailer.
 

MikDee

Banned
Joined
Jun 6, 2007
Messages
4,745
Re: Inboard outboard air cooled engine

Hey maxum, I don't know if you put the aluminum plate for the exhuast over the transom yet, but IMO, I have rethunk it (like that word?:)), and don't recommend a perforated plate, you might not want exhaust gases, or heat, lingering in there, or coming back at you, I think a solid plate, with the ex. pipe running thru it maybe better.
 
Top