Finnish fishing boat overhaul [Splashed 2017]

[Red Herring]

And a totally unrelated question I tried to google for some time without success: Could I route the wet exhaust hose underneath the diesel tank? I'm not sure how hot the hose gets and if that routing would cause some condensation problems or worse?

 

[Red Herring]

Noticed quite big problem today. When I cut the poly sheet for the stringer/bulkhead extensions I left too much for the glass to build up to. Now that I was at the last layer I noticed that the deck low point was just in the middle of the hatches. Now I started adding layers of csm to build up the height. I'd like to get to 2-3mm in between the spirit level. Some parts still need 5-8 layers of csm to het up to that. Some parts will end up with 16+ layers of glass...

 

[Red Herring]

16 layers of csm strips on top of the 5 main layers of glass. Well, at least it's going to be bombproof. I don't mind the added weight, but the added grinding part gets on my nerves.

 

[Red Herring]

Can't edit my typos without rewriting the whole post. The dishwashing powder works by the way if you've got lukewarm water at hand. Takes some time scrubbing though.

 

[Woodonglass]

Have you considered making Hairy Peanut Butter and applying it to the top of the stringers to bring them to height?

 

[Red Herring]

I thought about it, it's pretty much either grinding vertical surfaces or horizontal ones, unless I missed some ingenious way to level the pb nice and smooth(a giant spreader?). Actually that would work...hmm. Which one would you consider to be stronger? The pb would of course have hairs moving up and down as well in comparison with the csm..

 

[Woodonglass]

YOu could clamp 1/4" plywood on the sides of the stringers to the level needed and put wax paper on the insides of them so the PB wouldn't stick and then fill the void with the pb and spread it smooth as silk with a bondo spreader. Remove the "Forms" and VOILA" Raised Stringers!!!! The Hairy PB is Strong as heck. You can beat it with a Sledge hammer and NOT break it. I'd drill some 1/2" holes into the top of the stringers so the PB could "NAIL" itself down into the core of the stringer and it would NEVER come off the top!!! I hope that all makes sense!!!

 

[Red Herring]

It sure does, that's exactly how I planned to do the lips around the hatch openings. I'll think about it!

 

[Woodonglass]

You can make your own Hairy PB by cutting up scraps of CSM to put into the resin. Cut it and then tear it with your fingers. Works really well.

 

[kcassells]

YOu could clamp 1/4" plywood on the sides of the stringers to the level needed and put wax paper on the insides of them so the PB wouldn't stick and then fill the void with the pb and spread it smooth as silk with a bondo spreader. Remove the "Forms" and VOILA" Raised Stringers!!!! The Hairy PB is Strong as heck. You can beat it with a Sledge hammer and NOT break it. I'd drill some 1/2" holes into the top of the stringers so the PB could "NAIL" itself down into the core of the stringer and it would NEVER come off the top!!! I hope that all makes sense!!!

What a cool idea/way to level up! Nice!

 

[Red Herring]

Now I'll grind the stuff I already did smooth and then research if WOG:s way would be easier than continuing the csm buildup approach.

 

[studioq]

Now I'll grind the stuff I already did smooth and then research if WOG:s way would be easier than continuing the csm buildup approach.

Is this issue about building up the stringers to the proper deck height?

 

[Red Herring]

Yes, that's what it's about. As it was now there would have been some water always splashing about inbetween the hatches. Now it's done as per WOG:s suggestion. I'll fill it up tomorrow, grind the corners and add the last layer of cloth (before the raised gutters will be glassed that is).

 

[Red Herring]

I used some old floor laminate and oven paper(don't really know what it's called) since the wax paper ran out. When the oven stuff ran out I had to try the aluminium foil since some people consider it to be a decent mold releaser.

 

[Woodonglass]

Get some mice and let's have some races!!!!!

 

[Red Herring]

Oh yes, they say mice learn on their third wrong turn. I've frequently caught myself doing the same mistakes far more often than that... (I'll never have that fifth/sixth beer again and so forth)

I'm putting some thought on the engine cover. Since the lower part will be both removable and structural in a sense that it's going to have a gutter/lip where the hatches will rest, I'm finding it hard to come up with a way not to leave some spot where minor water intrusion will be inevitable. I'll have to try and draw something so it makes more sense, if someone figures out what I'm talking about even with this vague description, then I'll be glad to hear some suggestions on how it's usually done?

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah, I'm gunna need a drawing or sumthun. I'm not gettin it. Are you gunna drill some holes in the top of the stingers before you smear the PB on to help it attach itself a bit better? If not you can always put on 1 more layer of CSM over the top to ensure it's "Capped" off.

 

[Red Herring]

I'll scribble something in the morning. The holes are there, just a bit faint in the photos. Or well, cavities maybe more so. I used a tapered drill since the glass was so thick I got a full "bolt in" effect without going completely through the top. Figured it should hold well with the biaxial and the gutter glass covering the pb part from every angle in several layers. You think I should add some csm in between the pb plug and the biaxial?

 

[Red Herring]

Of course I can just drill the holes through as well if the tapered thing is a bad idea?

 

[Red Herring]

And thank you very much for the help, this proved to be a much more precise way to get the height of the stringers right since the poly sheets were a bit uneven from the start!