can of worms?

[jrttoday]

a good washing and wax will have to wait... just rinsed it off. This should be about "how she'll sit on plane".




Cavitation plate is "close" to parallel with the hull; no need to bother with exact for now. Ruff measurement was 4" above; which only testing will tell if too high - 3" before wasn't enough with the offset being 6". It's now 10" offset which throws the weight of the motor back some - changes things!!! More is not always better; even on a performance hull, you can go too far.
Had to open up the hole for steering cable - no big deal



Have a can of paint coming to touch up spots, but wondering why the "thing" turned out lighter - supposed to have been the same color. Used gray primer on it and not the motor, hmmmm....
Still have the emblems to paint/install - that's what those holes are.



She was fast enough before and wasn't really looking to tweak that!! Trim needs to work, period. Maybe there was something defective with the CMC I had? but it was no match for the torque of this V4; in four years, it wasn't enough for my other motor either.

The release valve only needed an O-ring; I couldn't believe it gave me so much trouble. Could hardly see where it had flattened out, letting it suck air.

PS: I was shooting for 8" offset!!! BUT!!! it just turned out to be ten.... It "appeared" that it couldn't be made any shorter with "what and how" I was having to make the thing. I DID NOT want it out that far, but oh well.... we'll see....
IF!! it still floats :lol:..... I'll run this until I get tired of messing with it, lol.

 

[jrttoday]

You got it looking like something now. Good Job.

thanks!! I sort of agree, lol. Hasn't been the best I can do, but definitely the best I was going to do - considering scrap material and under-tooled. My health is always an issue and my mind has been just about overworked!!

Presently wrestling with height; was aiming for 3.5" on cavitation plate, but the angle of the dangle made it 4". The length of the "thing" pushes the motor WAY UP!! at full tilt - almost scary :facepalm: lol.
Guess I'm getting lazy? and just wanting to run it without changing anything - lowering the motor means loosening two nuts and moving two other bolts down. Honestly am tired of messing with it..... Soak the carbs and all that stuff involved, steering linkage needs to be extended 2", and two 5/16ths bolts drilled/installed at the bottom of swivel bracket.

Swivel bracket off of '72 100h that I used for this is apparently not exactly the same as '70 115h; where the difference is I can't see or measure. BUT, 115 bracket would not mate up flush at the very bottom - shouldn't be a big deal? flush everywhere else and solid. Was planning to bolt the bottom anyway; that it needs it??? A 5/16ths flat washer barely fits in the gap with a little persuading; a thru-bolt will hold it and keep the bottom snug.

That "should" really be enough; if I hit something hard...... something has to give......

 

[jrttoday]

should have actually had a 5/16 flat washer before saying - was way too tight. Took the motor off, then me and two mechanically minded friends tried to determine what was going on.



it bottoms out at the same time the bolt holes line up; something somewhere is fractionally off, but we couldn't figure out what/where. I don't think it really matters, the webbing inside is bottomed out against that piece.
JS: doubtful it's the webbing, both mate flush. Just now thinking... that other swivel bracket had some knots on it!!! Maybe it has sprung some?

Letting it ride for now.... maybe sometime later, I'll build that spot up some more; but after looking it all over, it's already solid

Edit... the hump is just weld build up - ground down for the other swivel bracket to fit. Could take everything back off and add more weld, but really not necessary, would be me just trying to be fancy LOL.
If it becomes problematic (don't think so), I'll weld it all the way around.

But it's tight and solid just as it is (internally)!! Anything more there would only be dresing; just saying, it's these tiny little details I've been agonizing over from the beginning. Paid off in the end, works great in the driveway lol

 

[jrttoday]

I just don't get it.... but moving on (w/carbs etc). I used my 100esl72r swivel bracket to make this; it should fit exactly to my 115esl70d. The brackets are identical/interchangeable. "I" line bored those two holes for 1/2 x 12" bolts at the top - they line up perfectly on both brackets and the bolts push in by hand - have to be driven back out.

EVERYTHING is tight and very solid!!! "Why" there's less than a 32nd gap??? - I can't figure out.... when the other bracket hit on the bottom. Didn't build it up much on the top because I couldn't get a grinding wheel in there - things that don't matter....

 

[StarTed]

Try some bluing and see where things touch.

Just my thought.

 

[jrttoday]

StarTed yup, that'd probably tell me for sure. Can't see in there and it's hard to explain what I'm seeing and feeling by touch - firm, snug n easy all the way to solid and bottomed out exactly when the bolt holes line up (both of them). It won't pull up any further even with a C-clamp - think that says bottom.
If I shave anything internally, it will misalign the bolt holes.

Those mounds (tits) were/are difficult to finish off, but do touch on the bottom (both sides) with the other swivel bracket. That's why I say "maybe it has sprung some" over 45yrs of use.(or abuse!! lol). That motor has had 2 previous owners and been on 4 different boats - heck, I've run aground a time or three!! even hit the occasional submerged log at WOT!! that the l/u stayed on is a miracle.
This '70 motor has hardly been run at all..... ever!!!

But I do agonize over details like this; otherwise, what's the point?
Am just going to go with it as is; if I like how it does, will most likely weld those ears to the mounds or do nothing. The motor has two 1/2" bolts and four 3/8" nuts tying it to the swivel bracket; plus the tube and pin for the t/t - JS, I don't agree with welding on equipment or machinery attached.

 

[jrttoday]

NOTE -- the video icon does not show a picture because my Youtube channel is set to "private" - but the video is still visible here.

as usual, work in progress.... it snowed the other day, down in the 20's last night and barely 40* today - no big deal but slowed things down. Not a big fan of Lucas Oil products but am using their power steering fluid. Haven't run it enough to bleed all the air, oh well...

Steering arm needs a different bolt; was the only one I had - just there to keep the motor in place. Also need 1/2" SS all-thread to extend; have a steel stud in there now. Being that close to the garage makes it louder than it is.... think I just need finish hooking things up and run it

 

[jrttoday]

lost count after three... lol. Took at least 7, maybe eight? times up&down to remove all the air. I had done a complete oil change in the t/t; was only waiting for a warmer day to jack up/level everything and add oil.

any input here?




The steering arm isn't SS? says my magnet lol. I can have a piece of 316 threaded (5-3/4" long) OR?????
this project's been relentless on how to do and what to do next.

 

[StarTed]

I've found that some SS is magnetic.

 

[oldrem]

There are many stainless alloys, some do have slight magnetism

 

[jrttoday]

the guy at the machine shop had cut and added threads to those two long bolts (while I was there) for free; but paid him $16 for his trouble, just because.... ( be good to people that do work for you)
Having this threaded rod made at the bolt warehouse (where I buy bolts) because they're much closer and I don't want to pester a busy shop with nothing. $20 for it, but saves time and effort. Might get it today? no matter, it isn't what's holding me up - what's another day anyway?

Have other things to look over on this "science project" :lol: For instance; that half-baked measurement has the cavitation plate at 4" above - can't be certain I even want to try that!!! What I'm looking at is this - because of design, aftermarket t/t units really only tilt, kicking the angle of the motor up. There might only be just a few degrees difference, but this setup seems to lift the motor more than kick its angle out than what the CMC did.

In my belief, that was what was causing it to blow. We'll see.....

and thanks for the input. Seems those two long bolts were some kind of anodized grade 8? Being the original bolts on these two motors and OMC used them with aluminum, I'm not going to worry with it.
thinking the arm is the same?

 

[jrttoday]

well.... that was stupid lol, or too much other on my mind - probably (and this time of year).
When I got around to looking without interruptions, that pic shows me trying to set alignment etc with the motor hard over port :facepalm: - didn't bother checking any other position cos I didn't have a short enough bolt for the tongue.

After a lot of fooling around, the arm works OK as it is with 12 threads holding the eye. BUT!!! it''l go hard over starboard, yet lacks going hard over port. Play with it some more later, trying to find the sweet spot - it's what happens when you change from OEM.

Maybe make some sort of tongue extension? has anyone done or had luck with such a thing? Otherwise, my boats going to have a turning radius comparable to a Z71 Suburban!!! :lol:

 

[jrttoday]

found this trick on Youtube, just passing along. Remember, this is a 1970 motor and that's the original plug - it wasn't that bad but did need cleaning.
Take distilled white vinegar and add plain old table salt - add salt until it quits diluting, you really can't add too much (max salinity, salt builds up in the bottom of what you're mixing it in).

Soak the ends for at least 20 seconds, but you can leave it awhile (up to30 minutes?). Scrub with brass brush, then soak it in baking soda and water for a minute or less, the baking soda works pretty quick.
The crud remaining is mostly baking soda that needs be rinsed/brushed/blown out.
I used a fine thread SS screw for the female cos I couldn't find a decent tube brush that small



going this way n that on the steering, not where I want to be yet... Found this at the salvage yard; and it won't do what's needed either.
Slides on tiller arm tightly and bolts to it - nice extension for something else lol



Picture off of Ebay for side steering application - not exactly what I need, but pretty sure I can make one similar exactly the size needed.



it's nothing but 1" SS square stock with two holes. If I'm going do it like this, it might as well be tailored - even though the difference would only be fractional. Clevis on rod will be vertical - no change to the cable.

Rule of thumb is "diameter of bolt equals the least number of threads needed for max holding power". But imho, that mainly relates to bolt breakage and not holding power of threads. I have over a half inch, but would prefer a bit more because I am not worried about the arm shearing - it's the constant push/pull on those threads

A block as such will enable me to dial that in closer and can get a lot more threads on the clevis - maybe only fractional (concerning length of and distance between holes) but will make a big difference in some situations; especially at the ramp!!!
If I ever get there.......

 

[oldrem]

f

Rule of thumb is "diameter of bolt equals the least number of threads needed for max holding power". But imho, that mainly relates to bolt breakage and not holding power of threads. I have over a half inch, but would prefer a bit more because I am not worried about the arm shearing - it's the constant push/pull on those threads

When I was a tool and die designer we were taught optimal holding power of threads was 1.5 x diameter

 

[jrttoday]

1.5 x diameter

sounds correct. Think my buddy was confused and speaking on a nut/bolt getting a full nut; I wasn't certain but it seems to need more imho. THANKS!!

Am going to "try" make a variation of that "side steering adaptor"- will take a few (days) with Christmas right here.....
Probably be a temporary fix just to try it out, but needs to be made like it's permanent.

Changes to the steering geometry can be tricky - small changes can produce big results (good or bad). Whatever I end up doing will most likely slow my steering down some. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing considering lotsa horsepower on a small boat - we shall see....

JS>>> started this thread two years ago; time may fly, but I'm walking anyway :lol:

 

[jrttoday]

was fairly certain that I had figured or measured everything closely from the beginning; yet, I knew that the steering "might" be another challenge LOL. Not knowing what I did different, threads on the arm bottom out and have acceptable port steering??? - let's just say I can live with it.....

The test!! will have t make a video later when I can be focused on something other than everything else; but WOW!!!
Guessing I lost 1.5" of aft freeboard? - still floats!!! hahahaa
Even at full running trim, she'll still get out of the hole pretty good; but it's real nice to have a t/t that actually works... My biggest concern was being 4" above the hull; picked up 200rpm's and doesn't blow At WOT in a fairly hard turn (at least as tight as I'll try turning at that speed in this boat - estimated 45+) it picks up another 200, but still holds and shows no indication of blowing there either :joyous: And that's w/o trimming down.

Eventually, may drop down to a 20p but have other things to contend with; for now, I'll be content as it is.....
MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!

 

[sphelps]

Merry Christmas Jr !!!
Glad to here it's working as planed !Looking forward to some video !

 

[jrttoday]

HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!!!!!
It hasn't been nice outside (including today); just killing time with a post and saying where things are at....

Had lost the guy's phone number that I bought the t/t from, but knew where he lives. Guessing I have a propeller fetish!!! - seems like a topic everyone has an opinion on? LOL Every boat/application is different and I can't afford to pay someone to dial this in; especially since this is not so much a standard application, but the rules still apply.
And "I" can only "think" I know what I want :lol:

This guy's 30yrs younger than me, but we speak the same language :facepalm: sort of :lol:



$40 if it does what I'm looking for... My understanding has been that a smaller diameter will turn up a little bit more; this is a 13d as opposed to the 13.5 x 21p. It's also a 19 cupped which should be about equal to a 20p. He says the smaller dia will also be less likely to blow; and that this prop will hook up better and dig/bite much stronger than the other. We shall see....
Says it should also cause the boat to torque/twist on take off and drastically change the handling in turns from what I'm used to hmmmmmm.

This prop is allegedly some sort of antique (LOL) OMC performance prop; found under a pile of garage rubble

I didn't address this sooner because the boat was nowhere near complete. The ten minute test run produced 4850rpm with me and 12gals of fuel - based on prior results, another 200lb person, 160lbs of water (livewell 1/2 full @20 gals), tackle etc, only reduced rpm's from 4650 to 4600. This 115 has some power but max HP is at 5000 (recommended 4500/5500).
JS, loaded is 2500lbs plus.

Prop calculator says I'll lose 0.5mph with this prop while gaining 200ish rpm; but how accurate can that be when I don't have "exact" information to plug in. Try it and see is the only way; how it sounds and feels (or reacts) tells the story.

What I see now is the mistake I made long ago - trying to get real performance from an aftermarket tilt unit; "tilt" is not trim. Read somewhere that an outboard needs to be perpendicular to the H2O at WOT for best performance - given that the rest of the boat is riding like it should.

Been a long and winding creek!! and not there yet, but am enjoying this trip......

 

[jrttoday]

always something - spent much of the day on trailer lights; barely a year old?? and haven't really used 'em. Forgot if they're HF or Autozone, but the wires are crap. Can't even skin them back w/o breaking.
Cold and windy, plus laying on concrete :lol:

All good though, discovered a leak at the starboard side trim rod. Took the unit back off and will pick up a wiper n O-ring tomorrow (plus reinstall).
The t/t is real quite and smooth now that the air's out, but...... lol
Am chomping at the bit and wanting to go - don't care that no one else is willing to brave the wind chill. That's what I have clothes for :lol:

 

[jrttoday]

haven't quit yet.... cold windy and other issues!! The latch pin is just there for my reference - thinking of using it as a seat for tubing to be used as a transom saver; more stuff to make. Old TS will work just fine, but.....it's just me :lol:

Put a remote switch on the motor and replaced the whole cap instead of tampering with the seal (trim rod)(used part, new switch $30 total) plus more oil lol. Still messing around with the steering and cable routing; it's OK but if I make the other TS, it'll need a way to lock the motor straight - accomplished by drilling a 1/2" hole in whatever I make to pin to the "thing".

Six of half dozen whatever; I can throw that in the splashwell instead of locking the TS in my truck; plus, less wear n tear on the motor mounts. Does a TS really wear 'em out? I don't know...

Points of interest, or NOT!! :lol: Didn't pause there long, but notice how tight even the cotter key holes for the trim cylinder are; everything is super tight and as close as I could get...... sigh!! Can't believe I'm about done.... figure out what's going on with my reverse - don't really need it LOL - thinking it's a frayed wire? check it soon.