Rewiring and battery switch

[nguyenjs]

Hey guys, I am rewiring my boat setup to make it less complicated to look at while it is in rebuild mode and need your experience with it.

First thing, I am wanting to install a rocker switch on the console to cut on and off the main source to all the electronics. Meaning I have to cut on that switch so the the other switches may work. I haven't seen much details around or I suck at searching right now, but how would I go about wiring it up? Do I have to get a battery switch that will connect to the rocker switch, then that rocker switch to the fuse panel?

Also, will a simple SPDT switch work on a bilge pump to turn it automatic vs manual? I was thinking a DPDT would work as well, but the wiring for that type a switch seems complicated based on the original switch, which broke off.

So my basic switch on the console will do this

Switch 1: "Battery Switch" to supply power to the fuse panel
Switch 2: Gauges
Switch 3: Nav Lights
Switch 4: Accessory (Cig lighter, radio)
Switch 5: Glow Light
Switch 6: Bilge pump 1 - Pump water into
Switch 7: Bilge pump 2 - Pump water out

Switch 1 - 6 was going to be an ON/OFF switch while Switch 7 is pertaining to the question above.

 

[sam am I]

First thing, I am wanting to install a rocker switch on the console to cut on and off the main source to all the electronics

You mean the entire boats system?

https://www.bluesea.com/products/770..._-_12V_DC_500A

Or JUST the panel?

If so, just run the main feed wire (usually a 10 or 12 AWG, 20 or 30 amp fused feeder that comes from the main batt. switch) that comes up to the panel through its own toggle (properly current rated), from there, just wire its power output to feed all the other dash toggle's inputs.

Also, will a simple SPDT switch work on a bilge pump to turn it automatic vs manual?

Sorta yes but just a refresher first........The auto side power you don't touch/wire through any of the dash switches, normally (and best practice IMO) it is a feed from the battery that goes through the float (auto switch). The manual side is just that same power source that parallels the auto side, so basically any switch would do, simpler (SPST) the better. Jumping the throws together your SPDT I recon would be fine as well in a pinch.

I guess having to "manually" put a switch into "auto" doesn't make much sense to me. I suppose if it a switch that is a momentary manual that self centers back to auto, that might be okay. But, seems the less switches for the auto's power path, the less likely to have issues down the road.......

 

[Grandad]

Hi nguyenjs. If you've got deep pockets, the switch that sam linked above will work, but I wouldn't go that far. You really only need a switch that can handle perhaps 30 amps. A switch with such a rating usually has a good snap action that may be more difficult to find as a "rocker" switch, though you may find one. Toggle style switches are more likely to have higher current ratings, but there's lots to choose from:
http://www.iboats.com/Marine-Toggle...0159176--session_id.433419116--view_id.216627

As for the bilge pump, I prefer a switch that allows full control of manual / off / automatic. There is usually a center pause position for off. - Grandad

 

[nguyenjs]

Thanks guys for the great information!

As for the battery switch, it is just for the panel. It's to control all the electronics on the boat but the motor will still have a hard wire to battery. My plans for the wiring setup is to have the all negative wire go to a central bus. And another bus with positive wiring from the battery, motor, and bildge pump. From the bus, a wire to the battery switch (which from you guys are saying to get a 20-30 amp switch). Then that switch will feed into the fuse panel which route to all the other switches for electronics. Does that setup sound feasible to work?

As for the bildge pump, I was thinking a SPST switch as well now. Since the automatic wire will connect directly to the battery, the manual will just trigger if I need it to turn it on when I want.

 

[Grandad]

As for the bildge pump, I was thinking a SPST switch as well now. Since the automatic wire will connect directly to the battery, the manual will just trigger if I need it to turn it on when I want.

That's the way many bilge pumps are wired. However with that setup, if the float sticks in the on position, you can't turn it off. You'd have to pull the fuse which leaves you without a functional pump until you re-insert the fuse when the water level rises. With a 3 position switch, you're able to completely over-ride the automatic function. - Grandad

 

[sam am I]

Guess I don't trust myself enough these days, In the world of "ifs" ........I wonder but, thinking of the two evils of Murphy's PLLC, I believe I'd rather have a continuous or even a non-continuous run rated pump stuck on and pumping water, air, oil, fish guts and chessy puffs then perhaps walking away from my boat, getting half way to Cabo/Beer-Thirty/2AM and wondering........"Did I switch it to "auto" on a "manual / off / automatic" or "3 position switch" setup and "what if a hose/fitting/roof leak during heavy down pour, whatever, springs up in my boat" I'd be making trips left and right, wearing a path to my boat

....I've had to turn around too many times in my life because of the in/famous "S**T!!, did I leave the Iron plugged in or not" or "did I remember to lock the front door" maybe it's just me but, to now open that door with a boat? Ummmmm

Over the years of moored boats, I have seen a good hand full or walked upon enough boats sitting at/in process of going to the bottom of their slips because the pump simply didn't work, can't image if a guy's pride sunk because he forgot to manually flip (or the switch got bumped "off" by my famous switch bumping dog's butt) a switch to "auto" from "off".......ouch.

Perhaps just a two position switch would allow me to sleep better I suppose tho.......

I moor my boat, OP never said either way but, thinking just tying up and going in the lakeside bar/restaurant, I'd still have issues trying to recall if or if not each time i'm sure. Perhaps I'm just over cautious and too forgetful eh?

fin

 

[Grub54891]

You could add another bilge pump, fully automatic, Just set the float higher than the other pump. If the one fails, the higher one takes over. That would eliminate the forget factor.

 

[NYBo]

The gauges should be connected to the ignition switch, not the fuse panel. They should be wires so they go live when the ignition is on.

 

[sam am I]

The gauges should be connected to the ignition switch, not the fuse panel. They should be wires so they go live when the ignition is on.

Good catch NY, didn't even see that lil nugget tucked in there...........Concur

 

[nguyenjs]

The gauges should be connected to the ignition switch, not the fuse panel. They should be wires so they go live when the ignition is on.

Very good point. I looked at the old switches on the console, and there's a wire running to one of the switches. Any idea why? Maybe just to be able to be fused?

 

[sam am I]

Was thinking about that......not sure I've ever seen gauges that could be shut "off" with a toggle per-se. But it's probably out there somewhere I suppose.

Anyway, It might just be for the gauge's lights, is that switch wired to the bulbs of the gauges?.....Think to avoid confusion (like this) mine are labeled "INST LIGHTS"

 

[nguyenjs]

You're right about the gauges light. It is for the lights