Need help from paint gurus =D

[Kauaiboy206]

So I'm still prepping the boat for paint but I have been contemplating on the paint design. My next step after i fill all the unnecessary holes on the deck area and deep gouges and scratches on the sides is to start priming the boat and wet sanding to knock down areas prior to applying finish coats. So I'm planing and doing two tone finish like the design I got posted. I've researched paints and will be using the ruetoleum professional oil based gloss paint in white & black with "clear coat or some kind of extra layer of protection so I can buff or wax it later" Not going for a showroom finish but atleast something nice and decent to look at for a few years or so. I've got a couple of gift cards from lowes and home depot hence why I'm using that paint and nothing else, rather spend my cash on other stuff later down the road. Anyways, how would I tackle this paint job? I would like some pointers or steps on thr proper way of doing two tone color and which areas to start. Ex. Do I start painting from top to and work my way down? Do I finish my gloss white paint first, then tape off and paint the black tones over the finished white paint? ALSO the below water line paint will be painted white, can I use the same rustoleam paint over the existing bottom paint? It sits on a trailer when stored and not in use. Thanks a bunch.

 

[ezmobee]

I would go the Rustoleum route but add the hardener that Woodonglass recommends. Or I would step up to one of the more expensive true two-part marine paints. I would not bother with any of the other single stage options because I don't think they offer any substantial improvement over Rusto. I would recommend against clear coating. It makes the inevitable touch ups much more difficult in the future.

 

[ajgraz]

The rustoleum plus hardener and you won't even NEED clearcoat for protection.

 

[Kauaiboy206]

I would go the Rustoleum route but add the hardener that Woodonglass recommends. Or I would step up to one of the more expensive true two-part marine paints. I would not bother with any of the other single stage options because I don't think they offer any substantial improvement over Rusto. I would recommend against clear coating. It makes the inevitable touch ups much more difficult in the future.

So no clear coat and add hardener; how many coats would be good and is 24 hours enough time before i wet sand and roll on the next coat? Or do I just use a scuff pad and acetone. Can the gloss be buffed later when it's full cured to get everything looking even? Any other primer/filler that I might be able to but from the hardware storee beside the spray can? Something that I can roll on and wet sand.

 

[Woodonglass]

This link has all the info you're seeking...Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint...Say What!!!

 

[ezmobee]

As for # coats and buffing and all that, I'd recommend checking out any of the numerous "how to paint a car with Rustoleum" web sites that are out there.

 

[Kauaiboy206]

So I'm about to paint my engine cover to test my skills lol. I'm doing the roll and tip with rustoleam professional white gloss. What measurement should I use to get least brush marks? I bought the best Purdy oil & stain brush so hopefully that will help too.

 

[Woodonglass]

Did you read the paint link I posted??

 

[ezmobee]

Try roll 'n roll. Roll on the paint then go back over it with the roller some more very very lightly. It should knock down the bubbles but not pick up new ones. I painted my whole hull this way.

 

[Kauaiboy206]

Try roll 'n roll. Roll on the paint then go back over it with the roller some more very very lightly. It should knock down the bubbles but not pick up new ones. I painted my whole hull this way.

I literally just got done putting out the first coat on the engine cover. Rolling & tipping did not work out so well, I used 1 pint of paint & 25 ML of acetone and still ended up with brush marks, painting indoors with 2 oil heaters on so it's like room temperature inside of the garage. So YES, I aborted tipping and rolling back at it again, turned out better but has a little orange peel. So I'll wait overnight, wetsand tomorrow and add the first real base coat. The engine cover was primed with the etch/filler spray type rustoleum, wetsand & dried over night then was wiped down with acetone & let dry before adding the primer layer of rustoleum paint.
"THE LINK" i didn't really read it since it was directed to tractor paint, however I did read & watched a few videos on rustoleum rolled on paint on vehicles etc.

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmmm the Tractor Paint is EXACTLY the same Paint as the rustoleum. The application Method applies to anything you paint...NOT just tractors. Roll n' Roll is the ONLY way to paint your boat. Get the Ultra Dense Foam rollers from Lowes and then follow the technique described. It'll look like you spray painted it.

 

[Kauaiboy206]

Uhmmm the Tractor Paint is EXACTLY the same Paint as the rustoleum. The application Method applies to anything you paint...NOT just tractors. Roll n' Roll is the ONLY way to paint your boat. Get the Ultra Dense Foam rollers from Lowes and then follow the technique described. It'll look like you spray painted it.

I think that's how I'm going to do the paint since it worked out better for me, but as did some more research last night it looks like I didn't mix enough acetone with the paint. So I've got orange peels and some brush marks, do I let the paint fully cure and then wet sand to remove the latter or is 24hr good enough to wetsand just for adhesion and roll another coat tonl cover orange peels till final coat and buffed out later?

 

[Woodonglass]

Give it 24 hours then wet sand with 220 grit to remove the OP. Then wipe down with Acetone and Roll it on again.

 

[sphelps]

Yep roll and roll works good once ya get it down . On your last roll with it just use the weight of the roller and go slow .. This was done using that technique with tractor paint and hardener ..

 

[Kauaiboy206]

So the viscosity was the key in my case; in the first coat the paint was definitely on the thicker side of paint. Today I added more acetone to the mix and man does it make a huge difference, the bubbles were actually popping by themselves. I'm not using hardener on the mix but I might just add some Magic enamel hardener when I start painting the actual boat hull and decks. There are still some orange peel but the texture is much tighter in cluster on the second coat; without hardener how long do I wait before I could cut & buff thr finish coat? VS with hardener. And what's the proper wait time before I could start using it in water.

 

[Kauaiboy206]

Give it 24 hours then wet sand with 220 grit to remove the OP. Then wipe down with Acetone and Roll it on again.

Can I use the same gloss Paint for the bottom if this boat is storwd & trailered?

 

[sphelps]

Yes ...

 

[Kauaiboy206]

Yes
Alright thanks

 

[Kauaiboy206]

The rustoleum plus hardener and you won't even NEED clearcoat for protection.

Can I use acetone and majic hardener together or do I need to use the majic reducer for the rustoleum?

 

[sphelps]

You can use either one I think... WOG recommends a 50/50 mix of acetone and mineral spirits for thinning if I remember correctly for rolling ..
On the clearcoat ... You can clear coat if you want but it makes touch ups much more difficult ... Paint does get scratched from time to time ... And cc won't keep it from getting scratched ...