QuickSilver Dual Controls - Shift Interuppter Issue ???

[tpenfield]

I have the QuickSilver Dual Controls on my boat, which I absolutely hate . . .



They are showing their age, and today I noticed what could be a growing problem. . .

Cruising along at about 3400 RPM ( 38 mph) I noticed that when I put my hand on the control to adjust it slightly the RPM of the starboard engine suddenly dropped, like the engine had been shut off. I quickly removed my hand from the control and the RPM popped right back up and resumed as it was. All this was in about 2 seconds time. If I bumped the controls or moved them more deliberately, everything was fine. It seemed if I lightly touched the control lever the RPM thing would happen. . . this happened 3-4 times. So, I just left the throttles alone for the most part.

I was going to try a WOT run, because the bay was flt, but I did not want to risk having an engine suddenly shut down at WOT . . .

So, this got me to thinking, is the shift interrupter on the starboard control starting to get flakey? Is there a way to test this? Or maybe inspect it for wear?

Since I am not a fan of these controls ( I had the Kiekhaefer/Mercury Racing controls on my last boat) I am wondering if I should just upgrade to a set of performance controls with separate gear shift and throttle levers. :noidea:

Not sure what all will be involved in upgrading. Would I still be able to use the same set of cables that run to the engines? I don't want to open a can of worms during the season. So, I am wondering if I can easily diagnose the existing controls to get them through the season or should I just upgrade to new controls? (If it was a slam-dunk)

T.I.A. for any guidance on this.

 

[Bt Doctur]

once you shift into gear the interupter only should work coming out of gear. Once shifted into gear and using the throttle the shift control does not move
so the interupter does not move either.

 

[tpenfield]

once you shift into gear the interupter only should work coming out of gear. Once shifted into gear and using the throttle the shift control does not move
so the interupter does not move either.

Yes, I am just wondering if the interrupter switch is no longer working as it should :noidea:

After a little bit of research it looks like I have Mercury/Quicksilver Control # 88688A23. The interrupter seems to be a 'micro switch' P/N 87-817724 ? Maybe those are starting to wear out or the wiring is becoming shorted out.

I guess I can check to see if the micro switches are OK.

Also, It looks like I could get the Mercury Zero Effort dual control for around $1,300 . . . Just not sure how easy an upgrade would be.

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... I thought the Bravos didn't use the interrupter switch,..??

 

[tpenfield]

Maybe not, but if not, I guess I might be chasing an electrical connection issue. The main thing that is pointing to the shifter is that it happened when I was touching the throttle lever.

 

[Bt Doctur]

Its warning you to slow down or the lever is afraid you will do something drastic like go full throttle

 

[tpenfield]

Its warning you to slow down or the lever is afraid you will do something drastic like go full throttle

If I get really bored, I may pull the control unit out for a look. Otherwise, I'll see if the problem continues or even worsens.

 

[Bt Doctur]

the wiring contained inside the control box only controls the neutral safety switch to prevent starting in gear. It is wired to the yellow/red that goes to the slave solenoid.Simply moving the throttle handle and losing an engine could be a wire that has chafed on the control cable or harness.The purple wire under the dash supplies power to the ign system. Loose ign switch wires ?

 

[tpenfield]

Update:

I had the boat out today and it ran fine for the short trip that we took. Anchored near shore. I went to move the boat out as the tide was receding . . . The starboard engine would not even trun over. I checked a bunch of things and then finally pushed in the kill switch while turning the key and the engine cranked over and started.

So, I think my issue is the kill switch is becoming corroded. I'll put that on the short list for the off season, :thumb:

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Great find,....

 

[tpenfield]

Update:

Well, not out of the woods yet . . . I was chasing gremlins that past couple of days.

Symptoms are split second power loss while running ( I mostly notice it around 3500 RPM's )

Today after running for a while and anchoring, the starboard engine would not crank the starter. Ignition power seemed to come on, I got the beep that I usually get and the gauges came on, but when I turned the key all the way to start - nothing, nada, zippo. I messed with the shifter, still nothing. I pressed in the kill switch as I had done before, nothing. Then after about 5 minutes the starter worked.

I anchored again after a short cruise, and the starter engaged right away this time.

While cruising back to home port, I could feel the engine (s) cut out for a split second . . . you could really feel the loss of power when it did it. happened a few times on a 5 minute run.

I also notice that the engines sometime stall when at idle and maneuvering through the harbor (warm/hot engine)

So, I'm thinking it is electrical, but have quite a few things to check . . . ignition switch, engine connector, MEFI connectors, throttle/shift controls, kill switches,

anything else or other ideas :noidea:

 

[GA_Boater]

Since the kill switch and neutral switch are on two different circuits, maybe some loose wiring.

The loose wiring/connector may be under the dash associated with the key switch since the switch is common to both the kill and start circuits.

 

[tpenfield]

Thanks, GA

I'll take a look at the ignition switches since they seem to be common to the symptoms.

 

[tpenfield]

I just ordered two new ignition switches , right here on iBoats :thumb: Cole Hersee M-550-14 switches . . . which seem to match what my boat has pretty well.

I'm not 100% sure that is the issue, but at least it will be a first step on the process of elimination. I figure 21 years and 950 engine hours is probably about time for new switches

 

[tpenfield]

Update:

I went to replace the 2 ignition switches on my boat today and when I opened up the dash panel I found that the terminals had quite a bit of corrosion on them.



So, my thoughts were that maybe the corrosion is the issue not the switches. Here is a close up of the starboard engine ignition terminal. The other leads were similar, some not as bad.



I disassembled the terminals, cleaned up the mating surfaces and put it all back together, along with a coating of electrical grease.



The engines started right up, but I'll have to see how things go and if the corrosion seems to be the extent of the problem. If not, at least I have got new switches ready to go.

 

[GA_Boater]

You double poster you! LOL

How did the rest of the connections look under there? Sort of like a cold in a 1st grade class. It spreads.

It's possible depending on how well the switch is sealed, that there may internal green gook or even some burned contacts.

Now that you have 2 new switches on standby, the problem will go away and you will have to live with the Quicksilver control. :lol:

 

[tpenfield]

the other connections are in a sealed & greased connector. So, I think those were the only exposed ones.

BTW - If you want to delete my 'double post' (#16) feel free . . . Thank you

 

[tpenfield]

I am tempted to do the Mercury Racing controls anyway I think they are $1,300 ish for a 4 lever system (2 shift, 2 throttle)

 

[GA_Boater]

Got the double, Ted.

How much faster will she go with racing controls?

 

[tpenfield]

Got the double, Ted.

How much faster will she go with racing controls?

Thank you :thumb:

I'm sure it will 'feel' like it is going a lot faster . . .