73 Evinrude 65 Dies Under Load

[Vivii]

In order to get it to start I have to do that. Otherwise it will not turn over

 

[Vivii]

If that is the case, what could be the underlying condition?

 

[racerone]

You have bypassed the function of this safety switch as stated clearly in post # 20.------- The safety switch is so simple.------It needs to be adjusted.----Or it needs to be taken apart for cleaning .-----And yes that is easy to do !!

 

[Vivii]

I can try and clean/adjust the switch. It may need to be replaced knowing the age. Would that make it have some of my symptoms?

 

[racerone]

That switch get dirty inside and that prevents starter from cranking.-----It is easy to clean that switch and cheap to clean that switch.------That switch does nothing once engine is running.

 

[Vivii]

If I get a timing light and check the timing, how would I go about adjusting it? Does it all have to do with the throttle limit screws as well as the the spark advance lever limiter? It is one of those situations where I am a little hesitant to get into this in the middle of the boating season. I have never played with this and it is running ok currently and I don't want to mess it up big time and not have it for the season.

Could this timing/ignition issue be leading to my need to choke it every time I start it as well? Over the course of the last 3 months I have become a lot more knowledgeable about outboards and would love to tackle this but don't want to screw it all up and be done for the year as well.

 

[racerone]

One of the features of the "magflash electronic ignition " is that timing never goes out of adjustment.-----Sheared flywheel key does throw it out.-----Make no adjustments if you are unsure of what you are doing !

 

[zpbruno]

I have the same engine that had similar symptoms. I've put new coils on it, but haven't pulled the flywheel nor cleaned the carburetors just yet. I was unsatisfied with the freedom of movement for all the mechanical linkages to throttle and gear shift; the spark advance seemed especially gummy and unresponsive. I pulled all the linkages, cleaned, lubricated, and reinstalled them. Where before the engine had a hard time going from idle to forward unless I really feathered the throttle, it now is quite comfortable going forward.

 

[Vivii]

One of the features of the "magflash electronic ignition " is that timing never goes out of adjustment.-----Sheared flywheel key does throw it out.-----Make no adjustments if you are unsure of what you are doing !

If I pull the flywheel to check the key way, would I then need to do anything with the timing? If I disconnect the spark advance lever like I have it in the photo, should the spark advance lever (under the flywheel) stay where I move it or return to starting position on its own?


​​​​​​​

I have the same engine that had similar symptoms. I've put new coils on it, but haven't pulled the flywheel nor cleaned the carburetors just yet. I was unsatisfied with the freedom of movement for all the mechanical linkages to throttle and gear shift; the spark advance seemed especially gummy and unresponsive. I pulled all the linkages, cleaned, lubricated, and reinstalled them. Where before the engine had a hard time going from idle to forward unless I really feathered the throttle, it now is quite comfortable going forward.

Did you pull the main bolt holding the linkages out (holding the shift, throttle, and spark advance levers to the engine) and clean that or the actual cables?

 

[zpbruno]

I didn't lube the cables. In the attached image I circled in blue all the linkages that I removed, cleaned, lubed, and reinstalled. For cleaning I used carburetor spray, with white lithium spray grease for lube. Green shows where I cleaned and lubed only (no removal.)

The green up under the flywheel I first sprayed the tiniest amount of wd40 in to dissolve old grease, hitting it top and bottom and front and back, then working the lever back and forth. I gave it time to dissolve and evaporate, then repeated the process with the white lithium spray.

The purple arrows show where my intuition says the most good was done with my efforts. I don't know that all of my disassembly was necessary, but it did work. Be careful if you disassemble the main nut pointed at by the lower purple arrow. There are some 47 year old plastic bushings that I'm sure are fragile, and it takes a little thinking to get the main spring back where it should be on reassembly.

 

[Vivii]

I didn't lube the cables. In the attached image I circled in blue all the linkages that I removed, cleaned, lubed, and reinstalled. For cleaning I used carburetor spray, with white lithium spray grease for lube. Green shows where I cleaned and lubed only (no removal.)

The green up under the flywheel I first sprayed the tiniest amount of wd40 in to dissolve old grease, hitting it top and bottom and front and back, then working the lever back and forth. I gave it time to dissolve and evaporate, then repeated the process with the white lithium spray.

The purple arrows show where my intuition says the most good was done with my efforts. I don't know that all of my disassembly was necessary, but it did work. Be careful if you disassemble the main nut pointed at by the lower purple arrow. There are some 47 year old plastic bushings that I'm sure are fragile, and it takes a little thinking to get the main spring back where it should be on reassembly.

Thanks for the detailed write up, I will try and get these areas well lubricated tonight and see if it makes any difference. Should the spark advance lever (under the flywheel) remain where it is moved to or should it want to automatically return to home (spring loaded).


I also plan to get a puller and remove the flywheel so I can check the key way to make sure that it has not broken.

 

[zpbruno]

It should spring back with some authority. Check out the before and after on mine below.

Also take note of the safety switch in mine, especially compared to yours. As you can see in before the ground connection is just dangling and as you say, there is no way to start it when that is true. The ground strap is necessary. Mine just goes to a different place than yours. There is no cleaning of the switch internals, and the safety is not disabled the way you have it wired.

 

[Vivii]

It should spring back with some authority. Check out the before and after on mine below.

Also take note of the safety switch in mine, especially compared to yours. As you can see in before the ground connection is just dangling and as you say, there is no way to start it when that is true. The ground strap is necessary. Mine just goes to a different place than yours. There is no cleaning of the switch internals, and the safety is not disabled the way you have it wired.

Thanks for the video, I will be cleaning and lubricating these tonight to hopefully fix my problem. I will let you know what I find.

 

[racerone]

The safety is definitely disabled and out of the circuit if the second wire is added as shown !!!-----It is easy to clean the internals of the safety switch !!!!-----And those safety switches only came with one wire !!----If you add that second wire to ground you might as well take the switch off and throw it on the floor and stomp on it.

 

[zpbruno]

The safety is definitely disabled and out of the circuit if the second wire is added as shown !!!-----It is easy to clean the internals of the safety switch !!!!-----And those safety switches only came with one wire !!----If you add that second wire to ground you might as well take the switch off and throw it on the floor and stomp on it.

Never mind- I was wrong. Leaving the notes anyway:

All I can say is that this must be a different switch than you are thinking of. Here is a brand new one I have to replace mine. It is clearly riveted together and the internals are not accessible. There are no wires attached just two spade terminals. And with the plastic housing the only way to make any electrical connection is to use both wires, as shown in the schematic.

 

[racerone]

Yes your switch is different than the factory switch installed on this 1973 model motor.----The factory installed switch installed in 73 is easy to take apart and clean the internal ground !!----Note-----I am not working on my first outboard motor.------Come on over with a few cases of suds and I show you how to clean that 1973 switch !!!!!

 

[zpbruno]

Yes your switch is different than the factory switch installed on this 1973 model motor.----The factory installed switch installed in 73 is easy to take apart and clean the internal ground !!----Note-----I am not working on my first outboard motor.------Come on over with a few cases of suds and I show you how to clean that 1973 switch !!!!!

I stand corrected. Turns out I bought the wrong part. Now the *reason* I bought the part is that the plunger is missing on my current one. Maybe I'll get lucky and the plunger on the new part will fit in the old.

 

[Vivii]

Never mind- I was wrong. Leaving the notes anyway:

All I can say is that this must be a different switch than you are thinking of. Here is a brand new one I have to replace mine. It is clearly riveted together and the internals are not accessible. There are no wires attached just two spade terminals. And with the plastic housing the only way to make any electrical connection is to use both wires, as shown in the schematic.

For my future knowledge does the symbol circled not mean ground? I have the same diagram in my manual and I thought that is what that symbol was so that is why i grounded it.

 

[racerone]

??---The original factory switch was grounded INTERNALLY to the block with throttle in idle position !----Yes there are 2 tabs on it and those 2 tabs are directly connected.----So by adding the second wire to ground the function of the switch is DEFEATED as shown in the picture earlier.----Not sure why wiring appears to be hard to grasp.-----Clean the internals of this switch as it is easy to do and help you understand how it works.----Or walk over I have lots of those switches and will trade for a couple of cold treats.

 

[Vivii]

??---The original factory switch was grounded INTERNALLY to the block with throttle in idle position !----Yes there are 2 tabs on it and those 2 tabs are directly connected.----So by adding the second wire to ground the function of the switch is DEFEATED as shown in the picture earlier.----Not sure why wiring appears to be hard to grasp.-----Clean the internals of this switch as it is easy to do and help you understand how it works.----Or walk over I have lots of those switches and will trade for a couple of cold treats.

I apologize for any confusion, I understand how it is supposed to work and that it is grounded internally. I was simply asking about the symbol in general. Electrical diagrams are a new world for me and I want to make sure that I understand for future projects. Believe me, I am to the point where if I lived close enough to anyone with knowledge on these I would be heading that way with some brews! I didn't get a chance last night to pull the flywheel and check the key way and to lubricate all of the connections but plan to tonight.

Thank you again for all of your help through this process, it has been a long frustrating one for me