Cabin heater core blowing cold air.

Gonefishing85

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Jun 25, 2016
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Yes, however probably a vertical out

So after thinking about it, what is the reason for suggesting a vertical out? Is there an actual reason or benefit or is it just personal preference? All things equal, the current housing isn't vertical. It actually points toward the HX. Going vertical would require new hose and an inline elbow to medigate clearance issues with the engine cover hatch. In the end, it would cost me extra money to get the coolant to the same location. I have no problem spending the cash to do something right but I would prefer not to unnecessarily spend.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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50,297
your boat, do what you want. my only other reference for OMC HX's is the other thread and old catalogs. Every OMG V8 HX installation I have ever come across except this thread and the other OMC have the HX across the front of the engine, a large expansion tank, two nipples for the manifolds (one for each) and a straight up T-housing.
 

Gonefishing85

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Jun 25, 2016
Messages
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your boat, do what you want. my only other reference for OMC HX's is the other thread and old catalogs. Every OMG V8 HX installation I have ever come across except this thread and the other OMC have the HX across the front of the engine, a large expansion tank, two nipples for the manifolds (one for each) and a straight up T-housing.

Sorry if I offended you. I'm simply trying to learn and obviously have a lot of questions.

The most recent discovery is the location where I would have to attach the outlet to the heater is currently in use by the temp sensor with no known alternatives.

So far I'm looking at the tstat housing threaded for temp sensor, appropriate temp sensor, tstat, outlet and inlet fittings for heater hose, and I have no idea what even fits. Can I just order the parts for the same year Chevy 5.7 automotive engine?

i'm about ready to just buy a single outlet tstat housing for a 5.7 chevy, a 160 tstat, entirely delete the plumbed heating system and go with an electric heating element which is something I actually know about.
 

alldodge

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About any SBC thermostat housing can be used, its just routing hoses and you can figure out how it will work. I would try to keep the hoses no higher then the HX cap or lower to keep air pocket from forming.

Your intake should have a plug which can be removed and a sensor installed.

The return line is most critical so figure if you have a plug on the circulating water pump or will need to put a Tee in the return hose.

As before the supply can come from the intake thermostat area of the block drain
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
Messages
50,297
you need to have all hoses that flow to the HX to flow up-hill

you definitely want the supply on the engine side of the thermostat (intake manifold port or engine water jacket like AD mentioned. you want the return side on the suction side of the engine circulating pump
 

Gonefishing85

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Jun 25, 2016
Messages
90
About any SBC thermostat housing can be used, its just routing hoses and you can figure out how it will work. I would try to keep the hoses no higher then the HX cap or lower to keep air pocket from forming.

Your intake should have a plug which can be removed and a sensor installed.

The return line is most critical so figure if you have a plug on the circulating water pump or will need to put a Tee in the return hose.

As before the supply can come from the intake thermostat area of the block drain

The only place I see on the intake to attach a hose barb is used by the temp sensor. My water pump does have a spot to plumb into. I think I figured out the intake side.
 

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