1967 evinrude 80 hp need help.

[MFG-SPRINT-16]

Greetings everyone.
I have recently purchess a 1967 MFG Sprint boat with original 1967 evinrude 80 hp engine. I have been working on the engine for some time now to get her up and running again after many years sitting.
I have no idea how the controls work. Is there a instruction manual available?
This motor is new to me to work with because of its age and complexity. There is so much fine tuning and adjustments to be made. Questions:
1) Where do I set the the fast/slow lever idle controll for initial start up.
2) Any advise on tuning this motor would be very much appreciated. It runs, but very rough.
3) Can’t seem to find the proper points setting in my manual?
thank you

 

[racerone]

Points are set at 0.20"-------Is this thing electric shift ?----Model # and pictures required.----Install a new water pump impeller.----Test the hot light.------outboardbooks.com ------might have a manual for you.

 

[MFG-SPRINT-16]

Points are set at 0.20"-------Is this thing electric shift ?----Model # and pictures required.----Install a new water pump impeller.----Test the hot light.------outboardbooks.com ------might have a manual for you.

Thanks for the speedy reply
This is a manual shift motor. I installed a new water pump first thing. I have worked mostly on Mercury motors from the early 80’s. This thing is a trip, and a whole new learning experience for me. The whole automotive distributor and spark advance mechanism is all new to me. Is this motor worth all the trouble in the long run or should I look for a newer outboard?
I was told they are a PITA to keep running well. I love the fact that it’s a old boat with the original motor. I did the compression test, and all is within range both cold and warm engine before I purchased it. I like to tinker and fix things. I’m not afraid to get down and dirty with a hard project, but have my limits when it becomes more fixing than having fun as I get older. An honest opinion would be greatly appreciated. Both the boat and motor are in excellent condition as far as I can tell. It has been worked on before. I can see others handy work from the past.
Thank you all very much.
Stuart.

 

[MFG-SPRINT-16]

Thanks for the speedy reply
This is a manual shift motor. I installed a new water pump first thing. I have worked mostly on Mercury motors from the early 80’s. This thing is a trip, and a whole new learning experience for me. The whole automotive distributor and spark advance mechanism is all new to me. Is this motor worth all the trouble in the long run or should I look for a newer outboard?
I was told they are a PITA to keep running well. I love the fact that it’s a old boat with the original motor. I did the compression test, and all is within range both cold and warm engine before I purchased it. I like to tinker and fix things. I’m not afraid to get down and dirty with a hard project, but have my limits when it becomes more fixing than having fun as I get older. An honest opinion would be greatly appreciated. Both the boat and motor are in excellent condition as far as I can tell. It has been worked on before. I can see others handy work from the past.
Thank you all very much.
Stuart.

Oops. Forgot. Test the hot light?

 

[F_R]

Who told you they are a PITA? They don't get much simpler than this. What kind of remote control (shift/throttle) do you have? Picture?

 

[MFG-SPRINT-16]

Who told you they are a PITA? They don't get much simpler than this. What kind of remote control (shift/throttle) do you have? Picture?

Some article I read months ago. Not from this forum.

 

[racerone]

Agreed these motors are elegantly simple.----Did all the work on them when I was 19 years old at a dealer !!-----These do not require $100+ / hr dealer support !

 

[oldboat1]

Rig looks to be well-kept and original -- right down to the air guide gauges and original controls. Think you need to preserve it.

 

[MFG-SPRINT-16]

Rig looks to be well-kept and original -- right down to the air guide gauges and original controls. Think you need to preserve it.

Yep that’s why I bought it. I couldn’t believe how well it was kept. I’m hoping the gel coat will come back to its former glory. Looks to have original interior except for the above ground swimming pool liner floor covering. Which I think matches pretty well lol.

 

[MFG-SPRINT-16]

Yep that’s why I bought it. I couldn’t believe how well it was kept. I’m hoping the gel coat will come back to its former glory. Looks to have original interior except for the above ground swimming pool liner floor covering. Which I think matches pretty well lol.

I paid $800 for the whole enchilada. Was starting to think I paid too much.

 

[MFG-SPRINT-16]

Agreed these motors are elegantly simple.----Did all the work on them when I was 19 years old at a dealer !!-----These do not require $100+ / hr dealer support !

That’s awesome. Your my new best friend!

 

[MFG-SPRINT-16]

Agreed these motors are elegantly simple.----Did all the work on them when I was 19 years old at a dealer !!-----These do not require $100+ / hr dealer support !

Points are set at 0.20"-------Is this thing electric shift ?----Model # and pictures required.----Install a new water pump impeller.----Test the hot light.------outboardbooks.com ------might have a manual for you.

You mentioned test the hot light?

 

[F_R]

Oh, that's the old OMC single lever control. Pretty rare find. Lifting the small lever as shown in the picture advances the throttle a bit while in neutral gear for cold startup. Once started, and warmed up a bit, lower the small lever and hopefully it will sit there and continue to run at idle speed. Then, moving the big lever forward or back puts it into forward or reverse gear. Continued movement once in gear speeds up/slows down the speed. But I think you already know this from running your old Mercs.

If it won't continue to run once lever is lowered, disconnect the control cables from the motor and make any necessary adjustments to the motor so it runs properly. Then reattach the control cables. Always adjust the control to fit the motor, never adjust the motor to fit the control.

BTW, I was 30 years old and working at a dealer when that motor was built.

 

[MFG-SPRINT-16]

You mentioned test the hot light?

Also would like to know the starting procedure. Where to set the idle on the controller. etc…
Sorry for the million questions.
I really appreciate all your help and knowledge everyone.

 

[MFG-SPRINT-16]

Oh, that's the old OMC single lever control. Pretty rare find. Lifting the small lever as shown in the picture advances the throttle a bit while in neutral gear for cold startup. Once started, and warmed up a bit, lower the small lever and hopefully it will sit there and continue to run at idle speed. Then, moving the big lever forward or back puts it into forward or reverse gear. Continued movement once in gear speeds up/slows down the speed. But I think you already know this from running your old Mercs.

If it won't continue to run once lever is lowered, disconnect the control cables from the motor and make any necessary adjustments to the motor so it runs properly. Then reattach the control cables. Always adjust the control to fit the motor, never adjust the motor to fit the control.

BTW, I was 30 years old and working at a dealer when that motor was built.

Wow I was just trying to figure that time line out. That’s awesome. Your knowledge must be unmatched. What a great help you are to others when it come to these outboards. Thank you again for everything I’m going to adjust the carbs again without the cables connected this weekend. BTW I have a really stuck, but still moving steering cable. Any ideas for me other than removing the whole system for lubrication. Any way to cheat and lube it up in the boat? It’s different than some of the other cables I have worked on. I’m not looking forward to wrestling it out of the boat. I’m 50 now and not as skinny as I use to be lol.
seats are going to be moved back a bit for more comfortable cruising as well. I’m sure I’ll be back with more questions.
Thanks again
Stuart.

 

[MFG-SPRINT-16]

Greetings everyone.
I got the old evinrude running pretty good.
I replaced the water pump and seals that are associated with it. I knew I had a problem with water in the gear case when originally replaced its oil. I noticed oil mixing in the water running down my driveway while tuning it. I was hoping that the prop shaft seal would expand a bit,and re-seal itself. It was slowly leaking out and dripping on the floor after I changed it, but slowed after a while. I attributed possibly from sitting for many years and being exposed to water at the bottom and not oil. I just removed the lower unit today to inspect it after I was done getting it back up and running. So this is what I found.…
My question going forward,
Is this the prop shaft causing this mess or something I missed when installed the water pump. I have a manual. What do I need to do moving forward.
Thanks for your help.
Stuart

 

[Hab]

What a mess...I have a different motor, but on mine there is an oil seal for the gear case under the water pump housing.

 

[racerone]

That is quite normal for a 2 stroke.----Yes normal.-----You mix oil in the gasoline.-----Some of that oil goes right through the motor without doing anything.-----Just another example of how mis-understood 2 strokes , mixing oil and gas and lubrication on 2 strokes is a mystery to some folks.

 

[MFG-SPRINT-16]

I get the 2 stroke concept. I have been breathing 2stroke smoke since I was a kid. Dirt bikes,Atvs,boats,snowmobiles.
This is my first evinrude and my first older than me outboard. Had many 80’s mercs.
Tower of power 115’s and black max 150-200’s. I forgot to mention the gear case is completely contaminated with water. It’s a soupy mess. Would it be leaking from driveshaft seal below the water pump?
The prop shaft seal letting water in? I used the original water muff that came with the engine to supply it with water. Didn’t have it submerged in a tank so I’m thinking it’s the seal on top?
thanks for the input everyone.

 

[racerone]

A 50 year old motor.----Replace all seals and o-rings on it now.