Time to reassemble

[flashback]

Dis -assembly went easy, I just cut every thing made of rubber and thru it away. one of the hinge pins on the ring was hand tight and the other not much better so that was a surprise. anyway I got my new parts and just need to do a bit of cleaning and I am ready to put things back..


Got a question. The manual says nothing about putting glue on the u-joint bellows at the bell housing end, only the gimbal end. doesn't make sense to me. seems you would want to seal both ends.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I din use a no glue on a Gen2 at da bell housin end.

 

[flashback]

I din use a no glue on a Gen2 at da bell housin end.

LOL! Well now that we have that sorted out, what's a good substitute for merc's perfect seal for the threads on the shift cable. seems like teflon tape would work on that, and I have plenty of it laying around.

 

[Rick Stephens]

LOL! Well now that we have that sorted out, what's a good substitute for merc's perfect seal for the threads on the shift cable. seems like teflon tape would work on that, and I have plenty of it laying around.

The perfect seal is the same as aviation sealer from Permatex or LocTite. Good stuff to have around when working on boat stuff. Problem with using teflon tape instead is that the teflon won't keep all the water out and a little bit of corrosion there will eventually make it impossible to get that dissimilar metals to break free to replace the cable.

 

[Scott Danforth]

a good mechanic has permatex #1, #2, and #3 (aviation) on hand along with 4 different loc-tite compounds and both copper and moly based lubricants and a tube of tef-gel

use the permatex #3 (aviation sealer)

 

[flashback]

Thanks to both for the info. I will get some #3. I don't wrench enough to keep the stuff around, it always goes bad by the time I need it again. The last project I had was rebuilding an antique clock movement and all I needed for that was some good oil and a lot of patience. LOL
I've come to a stopping place at this point. I have the bearing in and that went well, put it in the freezer overnite and drove it into the housing with a 5lb sledge and a piece of 3 inch pvc. it worked beautifully, slid the alignment bar in and lined it up and got good witness marks as well. Installed the shift and exhaust bellows and that process went well. water hose was a bit of a pain but a bit of grease helped that.. reason I stopped is the insulation on the trim/limit switches is shot. For myself I don't need them and could just jump the limit switch but for 35 bucks I can get some china knockoffs. I can't justify the cost of the merc stuff so with that said you can probably guess my next question.
Have any of you folks had any experience with the cheapo switches?

 

[Rick Stephens]

Have never tried. I'm doing my best these days to onshore my suppliers as much as possible.

 

[flashback]

I decided to blow off new senders. Haven't had this boat long enough to know and I don't really care. Put a thick coat of silicone on the bare wires and if they work great.
When I took the drive off I couldn't lower it completely, will that cause any problem when I put it back?

 

[flashback]

I installed the gimbal housing today and again the water hose was a struggle but I think it's good. The main bellows was not too bad and did not use any glue at the gimbal housing end so if it leaks Rick is gonna fix it..LOL. I used an empty 1qt paint can to set the aluminum ring. It fits perfectly in the bore and filled with old drive lube, it was stout.laid a block of wood on my end and wacked it in.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I installed the gimbal housing today and again the water hose was a struggle but I think it's good. The main bellows was not too bad and did not use any glue at the gimbal housing end so if it leaks Rick is gonna fix it..LOL. I used an empty 1qt paint can to set the aluminum ring. It fits perfectly in the bore and filled with old drive lube, it was stout.laid a block of wood on my end and wacked it in.

If I fix it, you have to take me fishing.

 

[flashback]

If I fix it, you have to take me fishing.

I'd be happy to even if you don't need to fix it. The bass have been good on the river this year! I still have a kayak if my shade tree repairs go south.
Thanks for helping!

 

[flashback]

Used a weed eater line for a guide to install the cable but I think the old cable routing may have been wrong, it came up and over the starboard engine mount and did not go in front of the exhaust but directly behind the steering gear and then to the shift plate. So I re-routed it under the starboard motor mount, in front of the exhaust, then behind the steering gear and to the plate. I hope that works but I don't have any idea how to install the plastic grommet. I slid it down the cable but I can't reach deep enough to even get close to the entry point. You folks have any idea let me know, otherwise I'll stay where it is..

 

[Rick Stephens]

 

[flashback]

View attachment 346516

That is how I believe I have it, i have the same pic in the manual i downloaded. I should stop second guessing myself. How bout that grommet? I suspect the cable will suffer.

Bolted the leg on today and it went well

 

[flashback]

wow I just read my last post and it didn't make much sense to me either. I was pretty hot and tired. There is a plastic grommet that I assume snaps into the transom on the inside to protect the cable from chaffing where it goes into the gimbal housing. should it have gone on the outside of the gimbal housing?

 

[Rick Stephens]

I didn't remember it.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...ED8CA3759493EA7BA86BED8&view=detail&FORM=VIRE

 

[flashback]

I didn't remember it.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...ED8CA3759493EA7BA86BED8&view=detail&FORM=VIRE

LOL, good answer! I won't either, this boat will live most of it's remaining life with the drive down and if the cable goes south a bit sooner then I will know where that bit goes next time and how to get it there. The fella doing the video in my opinion was a bit off, the grommet is there to protect the cable from chaffing I think. It won't do much to prevent water intrusion if the bellows crap out.... Thanks much.

 

[flashback]

Just a big shout out to all who have helped me with this project. I put it in the lake this morning and had a successful launch. Since I only had 2 and half blades on my prop I didn't run it up but it is so quiet I can hear the engine rather than the gimbal bearing and my shift cable is no longer water cooled but most of all, the darn thing shifts like butter. so it seems all the problems I had are fixed for the time being. I now can justify a new prop. I know there are a lot of things that may rear up like leaky bellows etc. but I'm hoping it will hang in for a while..
AGAIN..THANK YOU ALL!

 

[flashback]

When I launched last week I had a damaged prop and just wanted to get it to the dock. Since then I put a new prop on and yesterday went out for a proper ride for about 3 hours. The SEI drive has a distinct jet engine sound which I understand may go away once it is broke in as I know the owner didn't put any time on it. As long as it's not tearing up anything I can live with it. Shifting characteristics changed after it was warmed up and I lost reverse. Thought that was a bit strange so I moved the lower shift cable up the slot a bit and that got the gear back but I'm curious as to why that happened.
All in all it was a good day, I need to sort out some electrical issues like why the gauge lights don't work and the steering is a bit sloppy. I'll try and post those issues in the proper forum after I search a while and see what I come up with..

 

[Rick Stephens]

When they assemble the lower they have to set the shifter up properly. When I bought one, the intermediate shaft was cocked to the side a little instead of straight on. Would not slide into the shoe. The tech at SEI said it was their fault that the tension was set wrong on the shifter fork. I haven't a clue how... but pulling with a small wrench against the spring tension aligned enough to install and it ran fine other than me having to adjust linkage to compensate.

Short story is I would not be at all surprised if a chinesium drive requires adjustments after running for a couple hours.