Those are the new bearings that come in the WSM rebuild kit. Ive already installed all the new bearing that came with the kit. What's your objection to using new WSM bearings?I would not use the bearing as pictured in post #42-----Why the new rod bolts as suggested.
Just mentioning that bearings in these are extremely robust. Unless you see chatter marks on the crank (remember bearings are HARDER than the crank pins) or pitting they are fine. Cost is a big issue with these older ones.Those are the new bearings that come in the WSM rebuild kit. Ive already installed all the new bearing that came with the kit. What's your objection to using new WSM bearings?
In the end I didn't use any grease for the bearings, just 2 stroke oil. Seems you only need the grease to hold them together during assembly if using the old style ones where you need to line up the needle bearings. These new ones slot right it. Also the kit came with new rod bolts which I've installed.
Refitting the bypass covers now... Should I use sealant on the gasket or fit dry?
Used the aviation sealant on the bypass covers. Trying to decide if I should use on the intake manifold gasket. The manual says all gaskets should have sealing compound.Refitting the bypass covers now... Should I use sealant on the gasket or fit dry?
Also where can I get these plastic check values for a good price. Some of mine seem snapped.
Ended up using the aviation sealant on the inlet manifold. It's a large area to seal and don't want it leaking. Made sure none of the small passaged got blocked.Used the aviation sealant on the bypass covers. Trying to decide if I should use on the intake manifold gasket. The manual says all gaskets should have sealing compound.
Well, I feel rather stupid now???----The shift rod moves UP and DOWN to shift this lower unit !!-----Sounds like it is in neutral now.-----And the shift rod needs to be set at a specific dimension.-----And don't worry about a little bit of a bend on it.-----And-----evinrudeparts.ca-----can help you with parts.
Good advice but I've already bitten of more than I can chew... will get the motor back together and ensure its running, fresh gear oil. Then i'll keep an eye on the gear oil colour and hopefully wait until next year to do the seats on the LU as I believe I need special tools for it.And make 100% sure you understand how important it is to set the shift rod height.----Failure to do so can add to your headaches.----And on a 1980 model V-4 gearcase ( if seals are original ) I would insist on a seal kit for the lower unit.----Repair cost there due to water in the oil can add up to spending lots of beer tokens to repair !!!