1967 evinrude 80 hp need help.

oldboat1

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When the t.stat opens, it's not hard to see the overflow out of the leg. I remember testing a new impeller on a similar motor, and the water shot out about 6 feet. It's not subtle.
 

ryan 98

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When the t.stat opens, it's not hard to see the overflow out of the leg. I remember testing a new impeller on a similar motor, and the water shot out about 6 feet. It's not subtle.
Well if it's like that then leave it. My memory of one I had for a short time on a tri hull was that it was impossible to see over the transom. You physically had to stand up and walk back there to see. But it had a tall transom and was a big boat. If you can see water pumping from the driver's seat that's good enough for me. Man that was a nice boat tho, 62 I think all original in nice shape. Sad I flipped it. But I guess that was the plan from the moment I dragged it out of the barn.
 

oldboat1

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(excuse to make a sharp high speed turn to see the water flow....) Grab the kids.

Think I've had seller's remorse every time I restored and sold a rig. Usually because I didn't play with it enough.
 

MFG-SPRINT-16

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You will find the shift rod o-ring when you take the case apart !
Greetings.
Im headed out tomorrow for a sea trial of the MFG Sprint. I’m wonder what is the best gasoline these days to run this
1967 Evinrude speedyfour 80 HP. There is no…Non Ethanol gas availability close to my location. 87,89,91etc…
thanks for your advice.
Stu.
 

MFG-SPRINT-16

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Greeting.

I made it back from a lake trial, and the Speedifour didn’t disappoint! I’m taking the lower unit apart now. Looking for help with removing these seals without damaging the housing?
Thank you all for the great advice so far!

Stu.
 

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F_R

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Greeting.

I made it back from a lake trial, and the Speedifour didn’t disappoint! I’m taking the lower unit apart now. Looking for help with removing these seals without damaging the housing?
Thank you all for the great advice so far!

Stu.
You are supposed to use a special tool to remove the bearing. That damages the bearing and it must be replaced. Trade secret, no special tool? Chuck the housing in a lathe and bore it out enough to push the seal and bearing out.

Or, if it ain't leaking, leave well enough alone.
 

MFG-SPRINT-16

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You are supposed to use a special tool to remove the bearing. That damages the bearing and it must be replaced. Trade secret, no special tool? Chuck the housing in a lathe and bore it out enough to push the seal and bearing out.

Or, if it ain't leaking, leave well enough alone.
That’s the problem…. it’s letting water in, and making a milkshake. Don’t suppose using a oil additive (Lucas stop leak) would swell the seal enough to stop the leak? The complete assembly is available $175 if I remember correctly. Comes with bearing and seal. Your thoughts?
Thanks again.
 

racerone

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Heat the housing.---Bearing falls out.----Replace seals.-----Press the bearing back in.
 

MFG-SPRINT-16

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Points are set at 0.20"-------Is this thing electric shift ?----Model # and pictures required.----Install a new water pump impeller.----Test the hot light.------outboardbooks.com ------might have a manual for you.
Greetings. Racerone
Can’t figure out how to pm you directly.
I have a new problem. Im hoping you might be able to help me with. Here’s the story. I ran the sprint twice last summer. I put the boat away for the season early. Decided to sell the boat and it has a new owner now. The gentleman who bought it went out for the first time and it kept falling out of gear. We are good friends now through all this. I feel bad and have been helping him with it. I replaced the brass block that connects the two shift rods in the mid section because it was mostly stripped. Thinking it was moving around and not securing the rods. When it’s not running it shifts forward and reverse and the prop won’t turn. Put it in the water on the trailer today and put it into drive and as soon as you give it gas it pops out of gear. I even disconnected the cable and physically tried to hold it in gear by the lever. Still pops out. No metal shavings that can be seen in the gear fluid indicating broken gears.
Sorry it was so long winded.
Much appreciated
Stuart
 

jimmbo

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I hope neither of you were 'easing it into gear'. I would suspect worn Clutch Dog, and Gears.

I noticed that you have a 10 X 9 1/4" Prop on it.
 

MFG-SPRINT-16

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Agreed these motors are elegantly simple.----Did all the work on them when I was 19 years old at a dealer !!-----These do not require $100+ / hr dealer support !
I hope neither of you were 'easing it into gear'. I would suspect worn Clutch Dog, and Gears.

I noticed that you have a 10 X 9 1/4" Prop on it.
I have no idea how this happened. It ran flawlessly for me the few times I took it out. Probably drove the boat 6 times throughout the repairs I did to get it running. He bought it from me at the end of the winter without test driving it.
I had no reason to believe it wouldn’t drive as well as when I put it away mid summer previous year. I don’t know what happened on his maiden voyage with it. He came back disappointed. I was shocked to say the least. Would it be easier to just search for another lower unit at this point?
Or repair? The motor runs beautifully.
Thanks
 

jimmbo

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Those Lower Units are not difficult to repair. And it gives you a chance to replace the Pump Impeller.
I made the comment about 'Easing it into Gear', cause many People do that, thinking that there is some sort of Friction Plate in there. There isn't, just a couple of Teeth on the Clutch Dog, and a couple of Troughs/Trenches for them to go in on the Gears. Slow engagement causes repeated Impacts resulting in Wear. Eventually the Wear is great enough that the Clutch Dog will rise out of the Trough, and then returned to it
Another possibility is, someone forced the Shift Lever with the engine not running, and bent the Shift Linkage between the Shift Lever on the Motor and the lower unit, and Full engagement is no longer possible
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jimmbo

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What is the significance of the prop it has on it?
Thanks.
That is the prop we used to run on our old 90. It is a Small hub prop, instead of the larger hub props that were the other choices
 

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racerone

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I believe that prop was developed for the OMC 17 with the 88 HP V-4 I/O ( 2 stroke).-----Needed to get a heavy load on plane.----Also used on outboards when there are power issues.
 

jimmbo

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Can you circle the parts in question on the diagram for me so I know what I’m looking for? Also would there be evidence in the gear oil if damage to said parts?
Top pic #s 23, 46, 50, 42

Lower pic #s 67

Sometimes the oil appears glittery, sometimes there are small bits of metal, sometimes not. Some analysis/inspection of the Linkage and of the Internals will reveal.
I suspect the linkage was bent
 

jimmbo

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I believe that prop was developed for the OMC 17 with the 88 HP V-4 I/O ( 2 stroke).-----Needed to get a heavy load on plane.----Also used on outboards when there are power issues.
I know the I/Os with that case, had an option of a 14" pitch, something that didn't show up on the Outboard Lists. Our 90 on the Evinrude Sweet 16 did 4400 with the 11" prop, and 4800 with the 9 1/4"
 

MFG-SPRINT-16

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I know the I/Os with that case, had an option of a 14" pitch, something that didn't show up on the Outboard Lists. Our 90 on the Evinrude Sweet 16 did 4400 with the 11" prop, and 4800 with the 9 1/4"
Gentlemen
Greetings.
Is there any specific tools needed to disassemble the lower unit? I don’t own the manual at this time either. I am going to help its new owner/friend solve this problem. Never serviced a lower unit that far in. Part of the repairs I’ve done already include the water pump. I’ve had it apart some already. Do the gears need to be shimmed? Do I need to set the ring gear depth like a differential in a car? Thanks for your help fellas.
Stuart.
 

racerone

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No special tools required.----Precision parts so no shimming required.
 
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