Problems AGAIN!!!

[iggyw1]

Hey guys,

The lst time I posted was because my motor quit and I had to be towed in, however, I found it was a plugged gas cap (not venting) and that problem has been taken care of. now a different problem I have a 35 H.P. 1983 Johnson with a remote box for the controls at the side wall next to my side console. Now today I was out, and when I went to start it every time, I had to work the throttle lever back & forth a lot while it was in neutral to get the key to allow the engine to turn over & start. When it started, it ran fine, but would not turn over with the key unles I woprked that darn throttlle back and forth and not just a little bit, but a lot while I left it in neutral.
Is there a switch inside the box that may be at fault or is it inside under the motor cover? Could a switch just have moved out of adjustment or is it going bad and needs to be replaced like right now or can I fix it with a new switch or just get into the box and make and adjustment? I am lost on what I can do now. Thank you for any advice you can give me.

 

[cyclops222]

The Neutral Safety Switch could be at either location. My Evinrude's are on the inside of the motor. In Neutral you should see a switch being pressed on by the shift linkage. Get lucky with just a simple adjustment.

CAUTION !! Some motors have a switch that MOMENTARELY stops ignition circuit as you shift from neutral to a gear position. DO NOT get them mixed up. You will have 2 problems to then deal with. I have only seen them on inboard engines. Someone can post if O Bs also have them.

 

[cyclops222]

A quick web search stated that O Bs can have them.

 

[cyclops222]

If you remove the big cover ? Be extremely carefull !!!! a bare flywheel can start spinning suddenly while fiddling with the sweitch !!! It can grab your clothing or HAIR!!!!!!!!! Be very careful of the flywheel suddenly starting !!!!!

 

[racerone]

You might find a shift interrupt switch on a V-6 outboard.---You will not find that item on a little 35 HP motor.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Sealed switch near the shifter mech. It gives the solenoid a ground. Follow the wire.

I opened one up and repaired it....not worth it though. Pretty cheap switch.

Personally, I would jump it at the motor and see what happens. Then Unplug the outboard and do it again. Doing these things will start giving you clues at its location.

 

[iggyw1]

Thanks again guys. I best leave it to an outboard mechanic. The guy that changed my throttle & gear shift cables works strictly on older Johnson & Evinrude motors. I am seriously thinking about replacing the entire control box, but I cannot find a good used one anywhere I looked. I saw some brand new boxes made by VEVOR. They state that they can be used on my motor (1983 Johnson, 35 H.P Model number unknown because tags are all removed by someone thru the years). I am just wondering if I can purchase one of these things and it will work good on what I have, a side mounted control box, single handle with no trim tab button. The VEVOR boxes I saw state they have 8 pins. I have no idea what the heck this means. Does anyone know where I can get the exact box I have made by OMC maybe reconditioned or used? Any ideas where I may find one? On the one i have now, the fast speed idle does nothing either, but the motor starts then I have to push the key in real quickly so it does not stall until it warms up for about 30 - 45 seconds. Thanks.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

What area of the world do you live in so I can try to steer you to a place close?

 

[iggyw1]

What area of the world do you live in so I can try to steer you to a place close?

Thank you. I am about 25 miles Northeast of Detroit, Michigan. A town named Macomb, Twp. zip code 48044. I have been trying to find an older OMC control box on Craigs list and our local trading/selling site here, but there are no working OMC controls around. If someone on this site has one to sell that would replace what I have, i will buy it.

 

[racerone]

----Try----evinrudeparts.ca-----For possible help.

 

[iggyw1]

----Try----evinrudeparts.ca-----For possible help.

TY Will do

 

[iggyw1]

----Try----evinrudeparts.ca-----For possible help.

I went to the site you recommended. I think I will look into my old box first (nothing to lose I suppose) before I take it to my mechanic to order what he thinks I need. I went on line & watched a few videos on how to make repairs to the OMC remote. it is beyond what I want to attempt myself, but I will open it up to take a peek inside just to see if anything is missing, disconnected or worn out, IF I am able to tell this by looking. I may be able to do a little repair to it, but I think it will be headed to my mechanic.
Thanks to all of you guys for your input!

 

[iggyw1]

O.K. I took my OMC box apart. I removed what I think is the neutral safety switch. It is a white little nylon block with a small black plunger (button) that goes in & out. I removed it and made sure it was working in & out, which it is, however, there are NO WIRES at all connected to it. There are a connector for wires on the top and the bottom, but no wires at all. I saw on a video, there was a yellow wire with a thin red stripe connected to the one in the video, but not on mine. I found that yellow wire with red stripe, but it goes underneath something inside the remote box. The thing i removed, was that the neutral switch & is it suppose to have wires connected? There are no loose wires. HELP!!!

 

[saltchuckmatt]

That's one and it appears to be bypassed. You want the one on the motor.

That's why I said to start it at the motor with the harness unplugged.

It will define where the problem is.

I was always the guy that sat in the front of the class with my hands up saying I don't understand, are you one of the guys that was in the back of the class getting d's? If you don't understand you need to ask questions.

Part number 94....https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1983&hp=35&model=E35ELCTS&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=CYLINDER+%26amp%3B+CRANKCASE

 

[iggyw1]

That's one and it appears to be bypassed. You want the one on the motor.

That's why I said to start it at the motor with the harness unplugged.

It will define where the problem is.

I was always the guy that sat in the front of the class with my hands up saying I don't understand, are you one of the guys that was in the back of the class getting d's? If you don't understand you need to ask questions.

Part number 94....https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1983&hp=35&model=E35ELCTS&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=CYLINDER+%26amp%3B+CRANKCASE

That's one and it appears to be bypassed. You want the one on the motor.

That's why I said to start it at the motor with the harness unplugged.

It will define where the problem is.

I was always the guy that sat in the front of the class with my hands up saying I don't understand, are you one of the guys that was in the back of the class getting d's? If you don't understand you need to ask questions.

Part number 94....https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1983&hp=35&model=E35ELCTS&manufacturer=Evinrude&section=CYLINDER+%26amp%3B+CRANKCASE

Thank you for your help. First off, I thought I was asking questions in all of my post above, especially post #13. In school, I was happy to get a D rather than an E (or F in Catholic school) I never claimed to be too bright. I am almost 75 years of age, and I di o.k. thru life but never very brilliant! LOL
I checked out a video and found the neutral switch you referred to under the engine cover near the shift mech. I wiggled the shifter at the engine and I saw the switch moving in a tad farther. I adjusted my shift cable at the motor so that neutral switch would move a bit farther like when I wiggled the shifter. It seems to have done the trick for that problem I was having. Now, If I could only figure out the problem with having no fast idle warm up lever working. Everything for the lever and all parts in there look great and looks like it went back together correctly, but still no fast idle lever nor no acceleration in reverse gear, just idle speed. I will work on this before I take her in to a mechanic. Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Here's two possible scenarios.

Box is missing something or the cable is stretched beyond is specifications.

Are they old cables?

 

[saltchuckmatt]

Just re-read....the cables are not hooked up correctly or your cables are incorrectly adjusted.

 

[cyclops222]

Go to Crowley Marine . I used Evinrude name to find a brand new COMPLETE control box, Cheap $ 404 compared to a new or different old motor with different problems,

 

[iggyw1]

Just re-read....the cables are not hooked up correctly or your cables are incorrectly adjusted.

Yep, I think they were just adjusted incorrectly, 'cuz I turned the thumbwheel so the shift mech. pushes back a bit farther under the cowling and it is actually pushing the switch in more than what is was, and the shifter is still in neutral, but it is now contacting the switch enough to activate it every time. The shift lever is on the side of the motor as this old motor used to be a tiller motor originally and was converted to remote who knows when. Thanks.

 

[iggyw1]

Go to Crowley Marine . I used Evinrude name to find a brand new COMPLETE control box, Cheap $ 404 compared to a new or different old motor with different problems,

Thank you. If I cannot get my fast idle lever acting right, or if I cannot get the reverse gear to get more than idle speed, I will check this out. I am thinking I do not have something right inside the box when I put it together. Everything looks great in the box. Nothing broken, everything connected properly on both halves, but when I put the two halves together, something is not placing correctly I think. I will try it again to make sure the thing is going together properly. But I did get the other problem with the neutral switch solved thanks to the guys on here.