Stupid me, no oil

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,023
With the actuator my small leak went from small to big to the point when the bilge pump kicked on some to the red ATF wound up in the water! This will cause a fine for sure so I had to fix it. I was able to do it by pulling the exhaust on both sides after pulling out the rear seats…not a fun job but do-able…but if the engine’s out, DO IT!
 

airshot

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Jul 22, 2008
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5,361
Not always.
I used 2 stroke oil in my motors. Problem was
It was for air-cooled 2 strokes. Black spark plugs in minutes.

A fatal wearing out problem occurs when you use your Marine 2 stroke oil in air cooled machines. They need the higher temperature rated oil due to hotter temperatures in air cooled machines. Chainsaws at WOT for several minutes at a time.
Been using Pennzoil two stroke oil for as far back as I can remember, over 40 years anyway, my container states for tcw3 and for all air cooled two stroke engines. Not only my out boards but weed eater, chainsaws, snowblowers, never a problem !!
 

cyclops222

Lieutenant Commander
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Mar 21, 2024
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Read the label of 2 stroke oils. They will state for water cooled engines. NOT for air cooled 2 strokes. Been there. The 2 stroke air cooled engine oil will not burn up as cleanly. I used up the 1 gallon of air cooled oil by going WOT for 1 to 2 miles on the way to my dock. It burned off the black plug carbon.
 

nola mike

Vice Admiral
Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,407
With the actuator my small leak went from small to big to the point when the bilge pump kicked on some to the red ATF wound up in the water! This will cause a fine for sure so I had to fix it. I was able to do it by pulling the exhaust on both sides after pulling out the rear seats…not a fun job but do-able…but if the engine’s out, DO IT!
The actuator needs a rebuild or can I buy a new one?
 

dingbat

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Nov 20, 2001
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16,313

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
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I don't think there is enough permatex #3 to overcome dunking the motor mounts in saltwater.. The fact that the inner sleeve was tight enough on the bolt to yank the rubber mount out of the flywheel cover tough to plan for....

I'll have to check my hardin O2 plate as well. I'm in fresh water but you have a chit load of corrosion on it for something that was anodized. I think I can put a bore scope in the sensor hole and see if it looks chewed up. Hate to take it off as it took half an hour to chip off the old gasket..

Have you done a leak down test? I had an engine did a similar overhaul on years ago had good compression but up to 20% leak down ( I quit after 2 cylinders) blows a ton of oil out the rear seal. Either the bores were too out of round , ring gap no good, or hone was inadequate...
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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Salt water is very challenging. I started spraying all vulnerable ares at the start of each season with Corrision X or now Fluid Film and that helps. Same on the trailer I spray all fasteners and springs 2x a year….
I started using Fluid Film on my old Jeeps as an experiment and I think the lanolin based corrosion reduction sprays work better. This season I'm going to use it on the old 4.3 V6. I can tell you spraying works because it's still on the original oil pan and timing cover and we all know how those rust if not protected. It's been in a salt water environment for nearly a quarter century!
Fix any raw water leaks immediately no matter how small. Advantage of salt water is we never have low water levels besides the tides which are regular. You're never out of the water for a season or more due to low water levels.
 
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Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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13,023
Read the label of 2 stroke oils. They will state for water cooled engines. NOT for air cooled 2 strokes. Been there. The 2 stroke air cooled engine oil will not burn up as cleanly. I used up the 1 gallon of air cooled oil by going WOT for 1 to 2 miles on the way to my dock. It burned off the black plug carbon.
There is only one notable exception, Toro or Lawn Boy 2 stroke mowers and snow blowers, were spec'd to get TCW-III because it causes less deposit built up in those low revving 2 strokes (governed to 3600 rpm). Unlike leaf blowers or trimmers or chain saws which can exceed 9,000 rpm. They need the additives that are in the 2 stroke oils for air cooled engines. While I have the Pennzoil all engines oil sitting on a shelf I don't use it! I use TC oil in my saw, trimmer, blower and weed wacker and TCW-III in my Toro 2 stroke snow blower (Suzuki 5hp 2 stroke).
 

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
Messages
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The actuator needs a rebuild or can I buy a new one?
This depends on which one you have, Merc and OMC used an actuator with a rebuildable control valve up to about 1989, after that the valve changed. The cylinder isn't rebuildable as far as I know but that old style control valve can be rebuilt. Why? Well it's the same one used in old style Corvettes and Mustangs, I think they were made by Bendix and there are rebuild kits available.
I have a NOS control valve for my Cobra and a cylinder as well. I saved those for the future and installed a nice used unit that is working fine.
If you have a newer than 1990 transom mount, I'm not sure what your options are, those actuators aren't cheap, close to a grand for a new one.
The worst thing about that job is the cotter pins that OMC and Volvo use to retain the mounting bolts, it was hell on wheels to get them out. After that, not bad. Merc uses a locking tab, might be easier.
steerng actuator removal.jpgsteering actuator intalled.jpg
 

nola mike

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Joined
Apr 22, 2009
Messages
5,407
Well...
Looks like I have a wet transom. The day I've been dreading. Drilled a couple of holes low down, closeish to cut out and drain plug. It dried up as I got a couple of inches higher. Also doesn't look like it goes all the way through; the rear seemed dry. But definitely there. Guessing maybe the drain plug? But who knows. Right now certainly nothing structural. Any options to mitigate this, or is she a goner? (Also, my "new" felpro RMS shipped without the damn seal. It has a gasket, but no seal. TF? That limits my weekend activities).
 

Scott06

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Apr 20, 2014
Messages
6,722
Well...
Looks like I have a wet transom. The day I've been dreading. Drilled a couple of holes low down, closeish to cut out and drain plug. It dried up as I got a couple of inches higher. Also doesn't look like it goes all the way through; the rear seemed dry. But definitely there. Guessing maybe the drain plug? But who knows. Right now certainly nothing structural. Any options to mitigate this, or is she a goner? (Also, my "new" felpro RMS shipped without the damn seal. It has a gasket, but no seal. TF? That limits my weekend activities).
Boat was under water , if you look around drain plug there is little to no glass on bottom of wood may have soaked it then.

if it doesn’t go far not sure I would worry
 
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