1985 Bayliner 2750 Ciera Sunbridge Resto

eggs712

Chief Petty Officer
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May 8, 2012
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402
Everything is put back together, and it looks much better than before.

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I also replaced some old hoses in the bilge with Trident #148, re-sealed the old bronze thru hull (replaced the wood backer with PVC board), omitted the OEM fuel filter for a Racor Fuel/water separator, and deleted the rusty steel fuel lines for hose.

Side question: does anyone know the best way to clean up Permatex #2 without harming enamel?
 

eggs712

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May 8, 2012
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402
All the old bottom paint has been removed via sanding with 60 grit to the gelcoat (nasty job). Fairing is nearly complete using thickened epoxy. Sanding should be complete today.

Also, I finished replacing all the sanitation hoses in the bilge after diluting and draining the really old head holding tank fluid (I put that job off as long as possible).

After fairing, I'll be using Sea Hawk Tuff Stuff barrier coat below the waterline followed by tractor paint topcoat. I'll also paint the hull sides up to the blue stripe.
 

eggs712

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May 8, 2012
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402
Forgot to add: I did some paint experiments after reading others' occasional issues with enamel not curing over fresh epoxy. Both Rustoleum and Majic hardened tractor paints both cured fine with a 3 hour hotcoat over Tuff Stuff. This was at 80 degrees and 80% humidity.
 

eggs712

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May 8, 2012
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402
The barrier coat is on; it took 3 coats and 3 1/2 gallons plus the first topcoat of gloss white enamel applied last night. It's a heavy orange peel texture, but below waterline so I don't care.

I also applied Rustoleum gray tractor enamel primer to the hull sides, but could not get it to self-level well using fine foam rollers and thinned at 5% with naptha (instructions said not to thin more than that). I was hoping for at least a decent topside finish, but I've also been a shoddy painter. After watching some videos, I'm going to try one of the cheap, electric airless sprayers for the remaining coats.

Today will be spent taping off well for overspray and sanding down the primer with 600 to hopefully save a decent finish.

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eggs712

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May 8, 2012
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402
The $40 Amazon electric sprayer worked surprisingly well. I had to use the smallest included 1.0 tip and thinned 2:1 to get a fine spray; it can really dump out some paint fast. The hot weather let me shoot all four coats today. It's not a perfect finish, but looks good from ten feet away. I'll upload a picture tomorrow.

In a couple weeks, I'll move the blocks around so I can finish painting those little spots. Then it's more waiting for paint to dry before testing the motor on a lake.
 

eggs712

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May 8, 2012
Messages
402
Cushions are installed, and also made a snap-in carpet for the cabin.

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I started the motor on the hose so I could clear all the air from the new fuel lines.

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I'm now headed to the boat ramp for some shakedown cruising.
 

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redneck joe

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 18, 2009
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15,516
no beer?

I plan for one per hour expected on the water plus a half water for same time period.

and a snack.

even on a shakedown.
 

eggs712

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May 8, 2012
Messages
402
I have a cooler full on non-alcoholic beer on board, still love the taste. And yessir enough snacks to camp out on here a few days. I haven't boated nearly enough this year, it'll be nice to be on the water for a bit.

The motor actually runs great, no tinkering necessary. It is definitely a chore to dock this thing alone with a 20 mph breeze.

View attachment VID_20260712_152022.mp4

I'm only getting 21mph at 5000 rpm, so underpropped. My 280 outdrive doesn't have the tapped center thread, so I'm stuck with short hub props, unless someone here knows a clever way around that. Current prop is 16×15 RH, not sure what I'm going to try next.
 

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
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15,516
my boat bag can sustain me for a few days.


There i think is a prop section here, try posting up there.
 

eggs712

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May 8, 2012
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402
The spare prop that came with this boat is a 15×17 RH Michigan long hub prop (elephant ears), which I kept as a spare. In order to make this work, I had to cut down the old line cutter/spacer a quarter inch, and used a thick 5/8" washer with a slightly cut down 5/8" nylock nut. As long as I don't reverse, it shouldn't fall off...

Anyway, unable to find a prop anytime soon, I tested with the 15×17, and of course the hub was spun. I had the tools on board to pin the prop, so I did. This morning, I'm reaching 27mph WOT at 4800 rpm with trim tabs down. Still overpropped, but getting somewhere.

In other news, the motor temp sender went out, so I'll pick up the Sierra part from NAPA tomorrow.

All my electrical systems and water pumps are working as they should, and the boat doesn't leak.

All in all, I'm much happier to be tinkering out on the water rather than at home.
 

eggs712

Chief Petty Officer
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May 8, 2012
Messages
402
I forgot to add that the trolling motor pushes this around great, 5 mph in calm water. The real test will be with an offshore current.
 

redneck joe

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Mar 18, 2009
Messages
15,516
last year yes, this year we moved house and as we speak one of the last things is getting done; a new roof.

I have yet to splash this year.

But my wife is very happy with her life in her new house so i get to live another day.

Gutters and a new electric panel later this month, so fall boating for me. She knows she will be a boat widow and honestly not sure she minds that much.
 
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