1150 overhaul parts list....

[jheron]

Hello all!!<br />Well I finaly got around to opening up the free merc 1150 tower of power I got last year <br />The serial number is 7097386 I believe it is from the mid seventies but I am not sure?<br />Anyways other than being sun faded the motor looks to be in good shape not much corosion or any signs of over heating. When I removed the plugs they all looked pretty good except 1 & 2 were pretty carboned up. Next the compression tests ... jug one shows only 60psi and jug 3 only 90 psi the rest are all around 130 psi. I tilted the motor up and gave the 2 problem jugs a good dose of Deep Creep and gave them a good workout to work in the oil then I even put a vibrator on the motor(old fish pump) overnight. Well jug 3 came up to about 105 but #1 didnt budge from 60psi <br />So onto the overhaul... I am pretty handy with the wrenches and have worked on quite a few 2 strokes but never a big ol beast like this! So this is my plan of attack and I hope that one of you ol vets will chirp in with any advice <br />Its always nice to have the parts on hand when you start the tear down so these are the parts I plan on ordering before I start the tear down please let me know what ya all think:<br />General<br />1. Carb kit for each carb.<br />2. Fuel pump kit<br />3. new hoses clamps ect..<br />4. water pump kit<br />5. Looking for a flywheel puller cheap! <br /><br />PowerHead<br />1. new set of rings for each piston<br />2. <br /><br />Questions<br />What about the reads in these old monsters? Is it a good idea to replace them while I have it open?<br />There are probly a lot of gaskets that need replacing and I wonder if there is a complete power head gasket kit?, Oil seals on the crank?<br />I bet its going to be a real **** to get all those rings started in the block, any tricks?? <br />What about the conecting rod and crank bearings, are these built to last or should I change them too? I guess the big question is are these parts readily available?<br /><br />I just got my self a seloc manuel and will start doing some reading tonite and see what I can come up with. The motor was basicly free so I dont mind spending a few bucks on her to make her reliable again. <br />Thanks in advance to any and all that comment <br />Sincerely Jon

 

[Valv]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

Besides all the parts you'll need, I can suggest when it's time to put crank and pistons inside block, take it to a shop with correct ring compressors. I tried myself and it's a @#%$# job, I broke at least 7 or 8 rings, scraped fingers and hands....then finally decided to take it to the "pros".

 

[jheron]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

ouch!! <br />What were you trying to use to compress the rings?<br />What did the pros charge, if you dont mind my asking?<br />Thanks for your input <br />regards Jon

 

[Valv]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

I tried with car compressors. The problem is the various angles of pistons when you insert them, plus the weight of the crank/rods/pistons together makes it tough.<br />Shop didn't charge me since he owed me for some parts, but it took 1/2 hour only, which was actually 25 minutes to mount the compressors, and very little to slide whole thing inside.<br />I finished the assembly myself, they just inserted pistons and crank.

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

jheron<br /> just rings wont cut it<br /> bore all six and go with new pistons and rings. if I had to cut corners I would inspect the rod and main bearings but then again they are cheap. replave the lower and upper ball bearings always. the installation of the crank/piston assy is difficult without the proper ring compressors but not impossible. without them it takes at least two people that know what is trying to be accomplished.<br /> dont start removing bolts on the flywheel flex plate, can lead to futher problems. if your going to do yor own overhaul buy the correct tools and it will work. my advice is strip it to a shortblock and send it to a trusted facility. <br /> the difference between a patchem up and a recondition is not that costly in terms of dollars but sometimes a pacthchem up gets done twice

 

[jheron]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

<br />without them it takes at least two people that know what is trying to be accomplished.<br />

LOL hehe does that mean my old lady wont cut it <br />Now I gota ask, what makes you so sure that I need new oversized pistons? Is it because I have 130psi on the rest of the jugs? is that low for these beasts it doesnt seam that bad to me? In my past 2 stroke adventures as long as the cylinders arnt scored and are within tolerance there is no prob with just deglazing and new rings. Or have you just had a number of these apart and know from experiance that oversize is the way to go? (hehe I can tell ya a story about over sizing my old honda 125 with a handrill mounted hone when I was a kid lol ... talk about time consuming!!)<br />Well thank you for your input rodbolt much appreciated!!<br />regards Jon

 

[prolinews]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

wiesco stickers look good on anything spend the extra cash on the other 5 you will feel better the first time you tach her out.

 

[prolinews]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

the fly wheel puller cost about 90 bones but man it is so much easier. I broke three part store gear pullers on 90hp before a friend loaned me his.

 

[jheron]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

Thanks for the advice prolinews! <br />A freind of a freind works in a machine shop and is turning me a puller as we speak <br /><br />What about the reeds whats the general opinion on those ? I see they are on the crank so I am thinking I should change them?<br />thanks again Jon

 

[jheron]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

Well I have every thing striped off her now just waiting for the puller ... I have been getting some prices and WOW you can see that merc would like every one to buy a nice new motor judging buy the prices of their replacement parts. Does any one know if there is a good aftermarket supplier of parts?<br />regards Jon

 

[briannh1234]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

jheron -<br />Try NAPA. There are also some on-line sites like dougrussel.com(sp). Also, try contracting Clams Canino. He's usually posting on this board. Clams?<br /><br />- Brian

 

[jheron]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

Thanks briannh1234!! I will check them out Ya I was hoping to get some input from Clams but mabie he is not around this week? <br />sincerely Jon

 

[Clams Canino]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

It was a *busy* week and I can't / won't plug myself as a supplier of aftermarket parts... so I had little to say. All the advise you got so far is good. Persan cast pistons (sold by NAPA and Pr-Marine dealers) are preferable to Wisco forged in THIS application. Assumming you don't take all 6 .015 overthen at least run a 3" flex hone through them to de-glaze. <br /><br />As for the reeds, While they rarely break... look at them closely. If more than just a couple petals are open more than a couple thousanths the idle will get more and more difficult. Do NOT turn them over to fix - THAT will cause early breakage.<br /><br />-W

 

[jheron]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

Thanks Clams!! Sounds like business is good then? <br /><br />Well I got the power head opened up and on my bench tonight I wont get the mic till tomorrow but everything looks better than I had hoped. There is a lot of carbon build up on them rings though, I don't think any amount of deep creep would of freed em up!<br />There is no scoring except in jug 1 but it looks minor All in all the old girl was in better shape than she looked, all that grease on her kept her from corroding I guess cause she came apart like a dream. No rounded or broken bolts on the hole job, not like the rusted old wrecks I worked on as a kid!<br />Will post back soon.<br />Thanks again<br />sincerely Jon

 

[jheron]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

Well I finaly got a bore guage <br />Here are the results:<br />1 = 2.8740"<br />2 = 2.8720"<br />3 = 2.8730"<br />4 = 2.8730"<br />5 = 2.8865"<br />6 = 2.8750"<br />Now this seems strange to me because the book says that the bores factory hone should be 2.8750"? Could it be that they mic the pistons and then bore the jug to suit at the factory? Here is what the pistons mic out to under the rings:<br />1 = 2.8660 tol of .008<br />2 = 2.8625 tol of .0095<br />3 = 2.8645 tol of .0085<br />4 = 2.8635 tol of .0095<br />5 = 2.8790 tol of .0075<br />6 = 2.8640 tol of .011<br /><br />So the tollerances are all 11 thou or less between the piston skirt and cylinder wall. I cant detect any out of round or taper in any of the jugs just some light scoring in jug one I realy dont think that I I need to over bore them all as the tollerances are pretty tight. What do you guys think?<br />TIA<br />Jon

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

hello<br />are you using a dial bore gage? a correct measurement is with a dial bore gauge in 3 levels 120* apart for a total of 9 measurements of the bore. average of the 9 gives average bore. max and min numbers give out or round and taper. pistons are not measued under the rings but on the skirt and above the rings. in line with the pin (same plane) and 90* from it. if the bore is tapered,out or round or worn more than .004 its a rebore time. a three finger glaze buster hone will not clean up out of round or taper. the bore needs to be checked after honeing. the dingle ball hone is even worse. to accuratly finnish hone a bore an expandable micrometer adjustable ridgid hone and cutting oil must be used. stroke it at 30 complete cycles per min to obtain the proper cross hatch pattern. if the skirt average is 2.872 and the piston above the ring average is 2.863 the finnish hone size is 2.875. max wear on the bore size is 2.879. this is out of manual 90-86134--4 pgs 4-13 to 4-17. but no the cylders were never custom fit to the piston at the engine assy plant. they use production machinery and go. they do use go no goplugs for testing in QC as well as go no go rings for the pistons. but it would take to long to measure each dimension at assy. as well as require a more technically trained set of work force monkeys.

 

[Clams Canino]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

Rodbolt and I differ a bit on hones. We agree that the 3 finger qlaze buster in NFG. But unless in the hands of an experienced mechanic, IMHO the rigid hone is more dangerous than the dingle ball hone. Mercury used the dingle ball hone at the factory on original assembly.<br /><br />Looking down into the "top" of the bores, you can get a "quick feel" for wear just by looking at the ridge too. As for the pistons, check to see if any of the factory ridge marks still exist above the rings. If they are all gone...it'll usually measure up poorly.<br /><br />-W

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

clams<br /> have you ever seen the dingle balls work on an assymbly line production? I am not saying it cannot be used just saying the universal 2.5-3.5 inch dingle ball glaze busters you buy at napa and a hand drill wont work correctly. most people chamfer the ports edges to badly when using them. merc used the dingle balls on a special mechanial honing bar. the reason at that time was to help roll off the burr in the ports after boring. it was faster than hand chamfering. with todays larger bores and ports it does not work as well. and the bores were round and square,not used and egged.with the tiny ports on the direct charge motor it wont kill it. with the large ports on a looper it can chamfer it enough to hang a ring. but eiter way if the bore is no longer round or square any flexi type hone will only hone it out of round or square. the only way tohone it square is with a ridgid hone. thats the only one I will use.

 

[Clams Canino]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

Originally posted by rodbolt:<br /> with todays larger bores and ports it does not work as well. and the bores were round and square,not used and egged.with the tiny ports on the direct charge motor it wont kill it. with the large ports on a looper it can chamfer it enough to hang a ring. but eiter way if the bore is no longer round or square any flexi type hone will only hone it out of round or square. the only way tohone it square is with a ridgid hone. thats the only one I will use.

Because you're qualified to use it. The average Joe doing ONE overhaul in is ENTIRE LIFE will survive just fine with the factory 180 grit 3" dingleberries, well oiled. And remember, I'm not speaking to newer loopers or anything but these 20+ year old direct-charged critters. And if you think about it... the flex-hone *by design* (and basic physics) will put more pressure on those areas narrowest in taper or on the narrow side of the out of round. Not that they will cure anything, but they will deglaze without making it worse.<br /><br />Bottom line is that 19 out of 20 blocks I've seen are no more than a couple thousanths out of much of anything. If you wanna "fix it because it broke" replace the melted piston and do the rings on all six with the dingles. If you wanna go for a "renewal", then bore all six .015 over and be done with it. Anything else is just a 1/2 measure.<br /><br />-W

 

[rodbolt]

Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....

I will stand by my statement. if you start with an egged or tapered bore a flex hone will hone it egged or tapered. if its out of spec its out of spec and no amount of honing will correct it, I make a living reconditioning outboards and have for many years. I worked at two dealerships that have the boring,honeing equipment and specialized in reconditioning outboards from 2hpto300 hp. I still give a one year warrenty on any rebuilt powerhead. with a one year warrenty I cant afford to have a failure due to a poor sealing cyl. on a four stroke poor sealing will mean extra oil consumption and some blowby. some may be acceptable and will run thousands of miles. on a two stroke, non DFI, combustion gas leakage past the rings contaminates the incoming air fuel mix and causes leanouts,oil starvation and bearing failures. can someone get by assembling a cyl out of spec? for a bit.<br /> but it will fail early in life. I do understand sometimes the extra dollar to go first class is difficult to come by. I have been there myself. however if I am taking some ones hard earned jingle I will do the job 100% by the manual or they can take it down the street. we have some shade trees here that do backyard work. usually the second failure renders the crank/rods, and block assy worthless.sometimes they come back mad at me cause they already paid for the labor once. I have to remind them I am sorry but you did not pay me. if your not happy take it back to the one you paid last. and always when reading the last repair ticket you will see 1 piston the rest standard rings. no new rod bolts or bearings and half the time no lower unit seals or water pumps and t-stats. the last inline 4 80 hp merc I was involved in was a rebuild. it failed due to water in a cyl. the second failure wiped the motor,, both failures were caused by a bad divider plate. the excuse for not removing the cover was all the bolts were corroded and the mechanic was scared they would break.so the man paid 1700 dollars and was out of not only the money but now had a worthless block assy. all I am pointing out is for about another 800 dollars or so jheron's motor can be totally reconditioned with new pistons,pins,rings bearings and a fresh new. bore.but only after the exhaust covers come off to inspect the diverters and the divider. I personally dont see many inline 6 mercs anymore. however we used to have tons of them about. they did not like saltwater. most corroded away several years ago. when I was working at a marina in texas I had plenty of black anchor work and owned a 1500 myself. was a sweet motor. was on a 17 ft cajun. after moving to this area it lasted about 4 years and was gone. nothing left of the cooling system to rebuild.