Clams Canino
Commander
- Joined
- Jan 10, 2004
- Messages
- 2,179
Re: 1150 overhaul parts list....
If you look at what we've both typed with a forensic eye, we're not coming off in much dissagreement at all when you go down the flow chart.
<br /><br />What does stand out to me was that the guy in your example paid $1700 for a four (lets translate that to $2000 for a six) and that the hinge pin of your example was that the mechanic that did that job was too incompetant to know the difference between water damage and detonation damage on the affected piston. It does not speak to cylinder walls and hones. It's also alarming that a "proper rebuild" on an inline four outta cost $2500 (when you combine the 1700 and the 800). This speaks back to that other thread I started about dealerships and the value of an overhaul vs the net worth of the outboard - and the mess that whole topic ensues. But the bottom line is, the home mechanic needs a better way to keep one of these old beasts afloat than to throw $2500 to $3000 at it in the case of a six.<br /><br />We both agree that if you have the beans you're better off taking all 6 .015 over and starting new. And you'll see no argument from me on the value of inspecting the exhaust dividers, particularly if salt water was ever involved. And the bearings are too cheap *not* to replace while you're in there.<br /><br />As for the rod bolts, Type-I is meant to be re-used, Type II is not. (per the manual)<br /><br />The rest of this discussion is about probability theory and risk vs reward asessment. We need to always look at both sides of that equation when giving advice or else the only people who could "afford to boat" would be the ones the dealers and shops annointed with enough spending cash to go 1st class all the time.<br /><br />Informed people working outside the confines of repair shops and warantee issues - face those choices. And as soon as you start compromising on cash, there are many questions that come into play, overall crank wear being the 1st variable you put into the equation of "how far to go" vs "how long will it last". The next variables are "is it a boost port engine?" and "what is it's intended use?" <br /><br />And remember, I come from a long careeer in New England where fresh water lakes abound , but the "sweet spot" for boating is a lousy 10 weeks long. Fixing it by "next weekend" or in a few cases "tomorrow afternoon" was the prime criteria set down. Several times I've gotten the "all it has to do is finish out the season" line.<br /><br />-W
If you look at what we've both typed with a forensic eye, we're not coming off in much dissagreement at all when you go down the flow chart.
<br /><br />What does stand out to me was that the guy in your example paid $1700 for a four (lets translate that to $2000 for a six) and that the hinge pin of your example was that the mechanic that did that job was too incompetant to know the difference between water damage and detonation damage on the affected piston. It does not speak to cylinder walls and hones. It's also alarming that a "proper rebuild" on an inline four outta cost $2500 (when you combine the 1700 and the 800). This speaks back to that other thread I started about dealerships and the value of an overhaul vs the net worth of the outboard - and the mess that whole topic ensues. But the bottom line is, the home mechanic needs a better way to keep one of these old beasts afloat than to throw $2500 to $3000 at it in the case of a six.<br /><br />We both agree that if you have the beans you're better off taking all 6 .015 over and starting new. And you'll see no argument from me on the value of inspecting the exhaust dividers, particularly if salt water was ever involved. And the bearings are too cheap *not* to replace while you're in there.<br /><br />As for the rod bolts, Type-I is meant to be re-used, Type II is not. (per the manual)<br /><br />The rest of this discussion is about probability theory and risk vs reward asessment. We need to always look at both sides of that equation when giving advice or else the only people who could "afford to boat" would be the ones the dealers and shops annointed with enough spending cash to go 1st class all the time.<br /><br />Informed people working outside the confines of repair shops and warantee issues - face those choices. And as soon as you start compromising on cash, there are many questions that come into play, overall crank wear being the 1st variable you put into the equation of "how far to go" vs "how long will it last". The next variables are "is it a boost port engine?" and "what is it's intended use?" <br /><br />And remember, I come from a long careeer in New England where fresh water lakes abound , but the "sweet spot" for boating is a lousy 10 weeks long. Fixing it by "next weekend" or in a few cases "tomorrow afternoon" was the prime criteria set down. Several times I've gotten the "all it has to do is finish out the season" line.<br /><br />-W