Just bought some Pettit EZ top side one part eurathane. Painted the side bunk supports first (trailer and boat the same color) to see how it goes on as this is the first time messing with a boat. It went on very smooth and glossy and I’m impressed with how hard it cured. Note the bunks were off...
Did a quick google search. Apparently this manufacturer has a jack with an oil port. Don’t recall seeing any oil port on mine. I like the point about drilling drain holes.
Reviving a 16 yo thread. Figured there should be better ways out there. Removing the decals on my 1998 Sylvan. Got one side done yesterday. To remove the glue, acetone did nothing , mineral spirits did nothing. Gasoline did the best but a lot of rubbing. Haven’t tried anything else yet. The 3M...
IMO, a replacement should be the exact same length. Take all the plugs out and use a scale through the plug hole to measure the distance to the piston at TDC. Even if the plug wouldn’t hit, I would find a replacement that is the same length. Would a longer plug affect the flame profile? I don’t...
I have just about every technical manual and engineering book I’ve ever used. Can’t throw them away. Any I get rid of get donated to various charities.
If this is your boat, use the picture as a scale. Measure the window on the picture. Take that measurement down the side of the boat and note the start and end of the measurement. Go to the boat and measure that distance. It should get you close.
I’ve been in equipment reliability for 40+ years and can’t say I’ve heard of stainless roller bearings, but that is with industrial equipment and I never considered a stainless roller bearing for my applications. I would be wary of stainless myself. You can’t beat a good Timken bearing assuming...
