Changing colour of gelcoat question

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carlos515

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Ok, good idea. I hate to remove the cap. Last time I cut out the bow seating glass. I think this is what I will do again to gain access to the front of the stringers.
 

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carlos515

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In the sticky, it is suggested to use Arauco ply for the deck. How about for stringers?
 
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todhunter

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Same, I used 3/4" Auraco for stringers and transom, and 1/2" Auraco for the floors
 
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carlos515

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I used the Auraco for the floor. While removing the floor, today, the plywood delaminated. In other words, the sheets came apart in the middle. This made me think it is not that good, or I bought bad ply.
Would Baltic Birch be ok? It is 50 dollars a sheet cheaper than Meranti marine ply 3/4 inch.
 
Scott Danforth

Scott Danforth

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The reason people recommend auraco is because on a typical 1/2" sheet, there are 6 layers where the common cheep stuff is 3 layers

Any high layer count exterior grade plywood is fine. The key is multiple layers and exterior grade glue between the layers
 
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carlos515

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Got some time to work on the boat. Removed most of the foam. There was a lot of water in the side cavities. Need to wait for my new full face respirator. I have many 1/2 face, but I think it is time to step up to full face.
 

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Scott Danforth

Scott Danforth

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I have over 28" span with 1/2" balsa for the deck sole in the Rogue. There is almost 1/8" of fiberglass on both bottom and top

However there is a rib every 24"
 
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carlos515

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Scott Danforth said:
I have over 28" span with 1/2" balsa for the deck sole in the Rogue. There is almost 1/8" of fiberglass on both bottom and top

However there is a rib every 24"
Click to expand...
The balsa made me think of Nida-Core H8PP 13mm. This is reasonably affordable, or PET Foam 5lb 3/4” by DIAB. Would I be able to use the Nida-Core for my stringers? And the PET Foam sandwiched between glass for the floor? Looking at the price, it is cheaper than Marine ply or Baltic Birch.
 
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carlos515

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Just did a little research on the Nida-Core, great stuff, not good for stringers.
 
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Pmt133

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I double checked, my fuel tank hatch is 24" across as well as 60" long. It has supports under it but there was no issue spanning that length before adding the supports. My top deck is also 1/2" balsa core with a crap ton of glass over it. (Not the cockpit deck, the deck covering the cuddy)

I couldn't find the auraco locally but have a client that we use for construction lumber. He got me AB exterior ply in 1/2 and 3/4 cheap. He also delivered it and unloaded it for me free so that was awesome as well. It was void free. I have had some cut pieces leaning against a wall in very adverse conditions and it hasn't warped. It came straight and dry and thats how it got glassed in.

I pulled pricing on the nidacore and that isn't cheap either. Do good ply or one of the various marine composites and be done with it imo.
 
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carlos515

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Yes, I think the Baltic Birch is the way to go for me. Easy to get and pick up.
The bulk heads that I used Baltic ply on were submerged in water for the 2 plus years sitting, were in perfect shape.
Thanks for the info Pmt133.
 
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carlos515

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Question on 15oz roving for wrapping the stringers. I know 1708 is good, but how would the roving be with 1.5oz chop mat? I need some roving for other repairs, so I was wondering if I should just order 18ly's and skip the 1708 for the stringers/bulkheads.
 
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Pmt133

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Woven is at 90 degrees instead of 45 like biaxial. Old school stuff was done csm woven csm... works fine but is thicker for the same strength is all. I feel woven is more difficult to work with relatively speaking... but would work fine
 
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carlos515

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Thanks, I think I will try the roving. It is under the floor, so the rough texture would not matter.
 
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