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  1. MNhunter1

    Were Star Trek V's just not that popular

    Cool little boats. I vote to retain the center console. Keeps it unique.
  2. MNhunter1

    Sacrificial anodes on an aluminum hull - Advice needed

    Yes, minus the 5200. I'll add some on the re-install.
  3. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Just a quick update and sorry for the lack of pictures. Nothing much interesting at the moment. Got my steering measured up and ordered, sticking with the same NFB 4.2 system I used on my SS. After a little sticker shock on some of the shipping charges for the Shields 149 livewell/bilge hose...
  4. MNhunter1

    Starcraft 1971'? 16' to Duck Boat Rebuild

    Yep, I've always stuck with 1/2" decking, ACX or BCX plywood sealed with Helmsman's Spar, with 3/4" doublers added at the seams and seat supports. T-nuts for attaching the pedestal bases in areas that will not be accessible after the deck is secured down. It takes a little additional planning...
  5. MNhunter1

    Sacrificial anodes on an aluminum hull - Advice needed

    Of my three hulls, the only one that had an anode was my MR180, which I believe was standard from the factory. I plan on putting it back on as I have it and the holes are already there, but I never even considered it on my other two hulls. Not sure if the MR or Mariner models were viewed as...
  6. MNhunter1

    '74 Holiday 18 Restore Mod.... Convert to open bow.

    I made a DIY jig out of scrap to place on the ground and bend it into shape. I used the cut out from the new transom screwed to a sheet of scrap plywood to set the angle against, another scrap piece of ply to give it a lip over the top and keep it in place, then some 2x4's inside the angle to...
  7. MNhunter1

    '74 Holiday 18 Restore Mod.... Convert to open bow.

    I used a 6' section of aluminum channel that fit 1-5/8". Used the transom and the cut out, along with a little physical persuasion, to bend it into shape. Not perfect, but much better than the trashed original.
  8. MNhunter1

    The 1986 Starcraft SS180

    Yeah, the methylene chloride strippers were banned a few years back and really took the fun out of everything. The new formulas are no where near as effective.
  9. MNhunter1

    The 1986 Starcraft SS180

    I was really impressed with the results of the Citristrip as well. Highly recommended.
  10. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Yes, will all be sanded smooth before paint.
  11. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    No doubt. Hopefully after it's all painted up, any imperfections will be covered by the trolling motor and strategically placed chokes, cleats, rod holders, or cup holders. I'll have to see how she looks after paint.
  12. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Started fitting the deck and a little more hole patching with the MT on the bow cap, console, and livewell. I tape over each hole on the clean side with a piece of wax paper, fill from the back, then go back and slap on another piece of wax paper on the back. Keeps the MT from running out...
  13. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Rivets arrived and I was able to get the stringers and cable tray reinstalled. Appears the original rivets were 5/32, but all are now upgrade to 3/16.
  14. MNhunter1

    '74 Holiday 18 Restore Mod.... Convert to open bow.

    I use a center punch to dimple the head first and reduce the risk of the drill bit wandering. Once you have them drilled out a bit, you can use a chisel to easily knock off the head. Use a punch to drive out the tail.
  15. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Would you paint the transom skin prior to installing the plate, or install bare aluminum to bare aluminum and just paint over the exterior? I always figure you want the 5200 against the aluminum and not on top of the paint, the the paint coat between the sheets would give a better layer of...
  16. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Fabing up my aluminum transom plate/motor pad/sheet for the outside skin of the transom. Is 5200 still the preferred adhesive, or some sort of epoxy? I was assuming I'd just back butter it with a health dose of 5200, but there tends to be some schools of thought out there that water will still...
  17. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    I ended up hitting about half of the rib rivets before the can started to heat up and it was going on too thick to want to play with it any more. I think the Gluvit goes down a bit easier and I probably could have finished the remaining ribs, but the Coat-it lays down a bit thicker and seems to...
  18. MNhunter1

    G/Flex question on aluminum boats

    Sorry, just seeing this now, otherwise would have replied earlier. Your best bet is to hit the rivet tails with the GFlex from the inside of the hull. You'll want to leave the drain holes open and I'm not sure coating the rivet head will necessarily address any potential leak points between...
  19. MNhunter1

    '74 Holiday 18 Restore Mod.... Convert to open bow.

    Nothing standard that I have seen on any other Starcraft before.
  20. MNhunter1

    New Journey

    Coat-it or Gluvit - is it worth it to hit the rivets on the ribs, or a waste of time/material? I'll have plenty of material, just curious on everyone's perspective. One would think any potential benefit would exist under the rib at the hull rather than on top of the ribs at the tails.
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